Flush your brake system?

[MN250R]

Hello,
I posted an earlier post last week with my brake light coming on.
It comes on once in a while and stays lit for like 20 seconds then goes off. And might not come back on again. Sometimes it doesnt come on at all driving it. So i figured whats the easiest way to flush the brake system? So i can put new fluid in.
It hasnt been changed in a LONG TIME. I replaced the ACC ball back in 1999, and think i should try this flush first.

Thanks

 

[83ttypecooled]

Hi,
Out with the bad stuff, in with the fresh! I would say just flush away! There are no really good ways of getting the stuff out of a brake system.You just have to work at it. Good luck.

 

[Swt_86]

Flushing the system is a very good idea but it may not solve your brake light issue. If you changed the accumulator in 1999, it may be time again. I have been told by an individual who is very knowledgeable on these units that the life expectancy of the accumulator is five years. I can't say that is true or not because I've gotten more than five years out of mine.

 

[2badgn]

With ignition off, pump the brake pedal 10 times to empty the brake fluid out of the accumulator ball.

Before bleeding the brakes, I would take a turkey baster and very carefully take out all the old fluid. Do not get brake fluid on the paint bc it will remove your paint permanently.

Then refill the reservoir with fresh fluid- Valvoline Synthetic is great. I forget which side takes more fluid but be sure to not overfill.

With ignition off, then you have to bleed each wheel cylinder. There is a proper wheel order but I forget. make sure to get all the air out of the system. thsi can take quite a while and you need 2 people. Make sure that the reservoir does not get low- refill it as you are bleeding the system.

When you are sure that all the air is out and the pedal feels good, fill both sides of the reservoir to the appropriate levels.

if you do a search, you can find out the missing information. the powermaster system is very delicate so be sure to do your research before you attempt to work on it.

Frank

 

[83ttypecooled]

Hi,
Congratulations on your long term lack of trouble. I don't want to seem like a curmuudgeon, but you have trouble coming your way ,maybe soon.Good luck!

 

[MN250R]

Thanks for all the replies, i will start with the fluid, then follow the brake diagnostic guide.

 

[83ttypecooled]

Hi,
All my previous posts were not of much help, so I send this one now in the hope that it will be more helpful. Regarding hydraulic brake system flushing,the easiest and most safe way to do it is to just open the bleed screws and let gravity do the work. This doesn't have to be messy,as you can use a hose and bottle at each wheel to retain the fluid.I have fabricated a couple of these, with a hanger to support the quart container,and a hose that fits the bleed screw.You could do all 4 at the same time, or just one at a time. You should keep an eye on fluid level, as it will drop pretty fast.

 

[MN250R]

Ya that sounds like a good idea with bleeding the screws.
Any idea how many bottles or ounces it takes to roughly fill the system back up>?

Thanks

 

[ChavoLC2]

Brake light

I was replacing a 30 amp fuse daily sometimes 2. Bought a 48 pack of green 30amp fuses. As soon as the red light came on it would maybe take a minute and you pressed on the brake pedal and notha no brakes actually had to use E-brake once. So if the light came on I'd immediately stop and change fuse and be on my way.

Most posts I read pointed to the accumilator ball, also the motor would come on when car was off on occassion. Was going to buy a acc.ball form Kirban cause you can't find em at your local NAPA. Didn't want to get nickel and dimed with the PowerFailure by buying this part then that part and then having to replace the unit anyway, so I was deciding/researching whether to go vacuum brakes or HB.


When it donned on me a last ditch effort, change out the brake fluid . Probably hadn't been changed in years. Well she hasn't lit up in 4 days and is working as good as is expected out of PM. The fuses were a daily ritual. Well if she does light up again goin to go with a HB unit. So mn250r give it a shot it may infact take care of your situation. I'm sure mine is just temporary, hopefully it'll stay workin until I can afford the Hydroboost system. I'm grateful It didn't fail on the highway or during a WOT blast. Really leary now to even get into it, just don't trust it .

 

[MN250R]

wow, thats alot of fuse changing. I will try the fluid change first, then go from there. I will also go through the brake diagnostic step by step instructions. Thanks for all the help

 

[GN ERGY]

Go buy a Mightyvac a hand pump vacumn tester, it comes with a little bottle and hoses and adapters. I got mine at autozone for around 16 bucks. Hook up the bottle with a hose coming off of it. hook that up to the bleeder screw and open it and suck the brake fluid out. you don't need another person and it's the easiest way to go. You can also use it for testing anything asociated with vacumn.
Tarey D.

 

[Gary Wells]

I have heard that Pete Hoffman of Kirban Performance claims that the biggest % of Powermaster failures are due to lack of changing of the brake fluid.

Brake System

HTH