Hi, I am new to this web site. I would like to know from some of you guys how fast a stock motor with external mods can go. I have a stock tta with 24k mi on it. The fastest time in the 1/4 so far is 13.5 at 106, on 99 octane unleaded. I am tired of getting my butt kicked on street race night at the strip, so what modifications do I need to do so on an 80 degree night I can run 11.5 seconds or faster? How streetable will the car be with a high rpm stall converter? Will the car be reliable? Please help, because I am anxious to get started on going faster. Thanks. ttanut.
fast e/t
- Thread starter TTANut
- Start date
TurboTA3.8
You wont keep up the pace
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
you can go low 11s with no internal mods
george
george
fast et
Thanks. That is the longest signature I have seen. I have South Side sub frame connectors that I have not installed yet. (no reason to yet). I was looking for suggestions like turbo size, injector size, good street and strip chips, intercoolers available, stall converters that you like, throttle body size, downpipe make, external wastegates names, and mabe a package recomendation that could include valve springs. It sounds like your family supports and enjoys your hobby, I am working on bringing mine around, and am on a budget. Thanks for responses.
Thanks. That is the longest signature I have seen. I have South Side sub frame connectors that I have not installed yet. (no reason to yet). I was looking for suggestions like turbo size, injector size, good street and strip chips, intercoolers available, stall converters that you like, throttle body size, downpipe make, external wastegates names, and mabe a package recomendation that could include valve springs. It sounds like your family supports and enjoys your hobby, I am working on bringing mine around, and am on a budget. Thanks for responses.
Hello TTA-nut,
I´m running TA-49 turbo
36 lb inj.
Bigger throttle body and plenum
Terry Houston 3" downpipe
Thrasher 92 octane streetchip
Transbrake
And a good airfilter
It´s also very important to mount new valvesprings.
All good for 11sec on the street.
Thrasher also have strip chip with lookupfunction.
You can also do it for yourself with a switch.
Hey, you also need some tires that can hook up now!
I´m running TA-49 turbo
36 lb inj.
Bigger throttle body and plenum
Terry Houston 3" downpipe
Thrasher 92 octane streetchip
Transbrake
And a good airfilter
It´s also very important to mount new valvesprings.
All good for 11sec on the street.
Thrasher also have strip chip with lookupfunction.
You can also do it for yourself with a switch.
Hey, you also need some tires that can hook up now!
Badd Azz TTA
Finally got the Picture
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
Sounds like your on the right track.Just remember the higher the boost goes the higher the octane should be .
I have a bunch of friend's running 10 second to really low 10's approaching the 9's that you would never tell they were that fast
Red Armstrong's car run's,drive's,idle's like a stocker until you get into it and it plants you into the seat!
Check these out for a good reference:
Build up's and recipe's to the 11's-9's
I have a bunch of friend's running 10 second to really low 10's approaching the 9's that you would never tell they were that fast
Red Armstrong's car run's,drive's,idle's like a stocker until you get into it and it plants you into the seat!
Check these out for a good reference:
Build up's and recipe's to the 11's-9's
T
TTA89
Guest
In my opinion you should max out the stock parts that you have before you try bolting on bigger turbos and convertors. The stock stuff works awesome and will take you into the 11s. Once you have that stuff tuned very well then anything that you bolt on will have a tremedous effect.
Just as a reference as how my car progressed....
$800-$1000 bucks in mods
"Free" Mods First
Adjustable FP Reg
Walboro 340 Fuel Pump
Remove Cat and replace with Dump Tube
New Valve Springs
160 thermo
Block throttle body lines
Remove 1 Maf Screen
K&N filter and remove the Air Box
Shift Kit and Trans Cooler
TCC Lockup Swith
Fan Switch
Nitto Drag Radials
Bleeder Valve
Scanmaster
Thrasher 108 RaceChip@20-21psi
110 Cam 2 Fuel
11.82@114.88
Stock Turbo, IC, Injectors, DP on Radials. No big turbos or Convertors or any of that jaz needed for 11s.
Another $1100 bucks
PT51 Turbo
MSD 50lb Injectors
Lubrant Race Chip@20-21psi
11.42@120
Another $840 Bucks
V4 Intercooler
11.25@121 with 23-24psi (long story)
There was still more to go but the car developed a rod knock after close to 400 passes and racegas on the street all the time. The car took a major beating and I loved every second.
The stock parts will go far. If you start adding stuff now when your car isnt tuned your going not really see much gain or possibly go slower.
Good Luck
Just as a reference as how my car progressed....
$800-$1000 bucks in mods
"Free" Mods First
Adjustable FP Reg
Walboro 340 Fuel Pump
Remove Cat and replace with Dump Tube
New Valve Springs
160 thermo
Block throttle body lines
Remove 1 Maf Screen
K&N filter and remove the Air Box
Shift Kit and Trans Cooler
TCC Lockup Swith
Fan Switch
Nitto Drag Radials
Bleeder Valve
Scanmaster
Thrasher 108 RaceChip@20-21psi
110 Cam 2 Fuel
11.82@114.88
Stock Turbo, IC, Injectors, DP on Radials. No big turbos or Convertors or any of that jaz needed for 11s.
Another $1100 bucks
PT51 Turbo
MSD 50lb Injectors
Lubrant Race Chip@20-21psi
11.42@120
Another $840 Bucks
V4 Intercooler
11.25@121 with 23-24psi (long story)
There was still more to go but the car developed a rod knock after close to 400 passes and racegas on the street all the time. The car took a major beating and I loved every second.
The stock parts will go far. If you start adding stuff now when your car isnt tuned your going not really see much gain or possibly go slower.
Good Luck
Thanks Mike. I have been told the same thing. I guess it takes me 2 times to hear something before I believe it. I have a day off work today, and am looking for a set of rims for slicks. I was then considering cleaning my stock intercooler and adding a accurate boost gauge and a manual boost adjuster with scanner so I can run c-16 at the track. I was going to ask on the electrical talk about scanners on this web site, but I may as well ask you. Does the scanner record the entire run so you can analize what the motor is doing like some tachometers? Or is the scanner just a code alarm. Obviously I have a lot to learn, but I want the finest obtainable scanner out there. Any Suggestions? TTANUT.
T
TTA89
Guest
Are you on the TTA list?
You should join as these questions get talking about all the time.
You should buy 2 scantools.
a Scanmaster which will mount in the car and will show you 02 volts so you can see how rich and lean the car is running and it also shows you knock retard. At the end of the pass it will tell you the highest and the lowest reading.
You should also buy Directscan or Turbolink which runs on a laptop and will record all the sensors for an entire run so you can play it back and see whats going on.
You should at least get a scanmaster before you go racing so you can watch for knock. If you get a significant amount of knock or go lean and pop there is a good chance it will blow the head gaskets.
Also, You dont need C16 for a stock car. 110 octane is plenty for 20-21lbs of boost which is all the stock turbo is good for. Anything beyond that and it heats the air up too much.
Good Luck. You have alot to learn... this is a small slice of the pie
join the TTA list.
http://www.li.net/~rsalerno/ttamaillist.htm
You should join as these questions get talking about all the time.
You should buy 2 scantools.
a Scanmaster which will mount in the car and will show you 02 volts so you can see how rich and lean the car is running and it also shows you knock retard. At the end of the pass it will tell you the highest and the lowest reading.
You should also buy Directscan or Turbolink which runs on a laptop and will record all the sensors for an entire run so you can play it back and see whats going on.
You should at least get a scanmaster before you go racing so you can watch for knock. If you get a significant amount of knock or go lean and pop there is a good chance it will blow the head gaskets.
Also, You dont need C16 for a stock car. 110 octane is plenty for 20-21lbs of boost which is all the stock turbo is good for. Anything beyond that and it heats the air up too much.
Good Luck. You have alot to learn... this is a small slice of the pie
join the TTA list.
http://www.li.net/~rsalerno/ttamaillist.htm
Thanks again. I am not on the tta list. Is it on this web site? I tried to find out what number my tta is on the Turbo TA web page, but never got anywhere with it. Please tell me where the list is, or if it is a chat room and when is a good time to visit. Let me know. ttanut.
ps I ran Wednesday night and did a 13.4 @ 106 mph. The car just keeps getting better. It was also a big help that it was about 70 degrees. Got the rims and ordered the slicks today. Made an appointment to have the sub frame connectors installed. Saving my pennies to do some more. Man is this fun. Thanks again. TKO.
ps I ran Wednesday night and did a 13.4 @ 106 mph. The car just keeps getting better. It was also a big help that it was about 70 degrees. Got the rims and ordered the slicks today. Made an appointment to have the sub frame connectors installed. Saving my pennies to do some more. Man is this fun. Thanks again. TKO.
T
TTA89
Guest
Click on the link in my above post and that will take you to the TTA mailing list hompage. Also, try your VIN again, it wasnt working but is now fixed!!!
