Engine rebuild time..opinions?

R

RAMAIR1

I'm addicted
Joined
May 4, 2003
I'm getting ready to yank the motor from my 86 GN for a rebuild. I don't want/need anything exotic. My plans for the car are more along the lines of a G-machine rather than 1/4 miler. That said, here are a list of parts I want to use and some that I would like input on especially the cam. I just want something that will take whatever abuse I throw at it, not necessarily be a 10 second car.
Definites
-Forged TRW's (.20 over if necessary)
-Poly mounts
-pocket ported and freshened heads
-42.5 or 50 pound injectors
-Turbotweak chip
-stock crank or Eagle depending on current crank's condition

In the running:
-Speed Pro 204/214 flat tappet cam?
-stock lifters?
-stock timing set up?
-high volume oil pump/front cover?
-billet caps (center)?

I was going to go with a hydro roller cam, but the more research I do, the less I think I need one. Plus I could definitely spend that money elsewhere on the car.

I am currently running stock trans/D5 converter...someday that will be remedied. Future plans do not include anything radical. Perhaps a 44 or 49 turbo and appropriate torque converter, larger stock location ic, some rediculously large wheels and tires (18") along with matching huge brakes and a really abusive heavy right foot.

Any input anyone has is greatly appreciated.
 
Stock crank should be fine. Add an additional 60 degree cut on the face of the valve (and standard 3 angle valve job). I like the coated cam bearings from durabond. Scratch the HV oil pump idea and just use a booster plate with some work done to the timing cover (contact Nick Micale for timing cover help). There is a wider rod bearing available, use those (more surface area for the crank to ride on). Use a single row timing set with steel gears.
 
Lee_Burough said:
There are links to several articles about rebuilding the LC2 on TTA FAQ List. Look near the bottom of the General Information section.

:)
Click to expand...
Thanks....now I have something to do tomorrow night at work. :biggrin:
 
If you just want to freshen it up, then just do that.
Rering your stock pistons and put new bearings in the car along with a good timing chain.
Whats wrong with the motor now?

I think forged pistons would be a waste for a motor that wasnt going to be punished.

If it was my daily or just another regal i was going to roll in, i would rering the stock pistons, all new seals and bearings, clean up the front cover or replace it with one from silver seal,fully port the heads with better stock sized valves,port the lower intake,weld the stock headers,install a te44 turbo with the pte .63 housing, rjc bleeder and power plate, orange stripe convertor, 009 injectors, razors meth kit and erics chip.

Stock rubber mounts because the polys vibrate your steering wheel.
stock crank with a new line bore and 2 new center main caps.

Sticky tires.

BW
 
The winter is a great time to get these things done. I can take care of those heads for you.

Sincerely,
Greg
 
Good morning,
The 204/214 is a good cam, but for more torque go with a smaller centerline (CL); we have offered this option for over 15 years. A larger CL will allow a broader range and the small will provide more peak torque. I agree with the previous poly mount comment, you will get vibration that you may not like in a daily driver. Our shop car has them and you can tell. The engine is steady, but you can feel it in the chassis.
You did not mention (or I did not see) a turbo. I suggest to our customers that want us to build engines or set-up thier cars to set a goal, short term and long term, and stick to it. If you start changing your mind mid project you may not get the desired result. Example: If 11.5 is your goal, buy a turbo that will just get you there. This will have better street manners and work at an efficient level. A larger (and equally priced) turbo may sound like a better deal, but not for your application.

Hope this helps.

PS: Double Roller Timing Chain
 
Thanks again for all the comments, this and the other TR boards have been a tremendous help. I think I know which direction I'm going in now.
Oh...btw, this is not a daily driver and WILL get abused if I have anything to say about it. :D While it's not gettin set up as a 1/4 mile rocket it will get hammered on when I throw it into and out of the twisties.
Also want to say thanks to a bunch of the local TR shops and vendors as I've been picking their brains too. And to the vendors who havent spoken to me yet.....you will. :)
 
FYI. The word abused is there again. I know you are not being literal, but I would suggest building the botton end STRONG. example: We built an engine about a year ago for a customer with TRWs, 204/224, TE60, ESP Frontmount, Balanced, and more. He never hit the track. Dyno'ed the car at 385 rwhp and 525 rwtq. This was with about 21# of boost. His 42# injectors wouldn't do anymore. Two weeks later we installed a 3" downpipe and as he left our shop, he snapped the crank between the 1 & 2 rod journals. Totally destroyed the botton end, bend 10 or 12 valves and more. He drove like a mad-man (unless you ask him). He also blow a head gasket, #6, from 2 o'clock back around to 5 o'clock. Yes, that's more the half the gasket material. I he insists he was " just driving the car... no boost..." (the head gasket was a seperate inccident)

Build it strong.
 
ESP Products said:
FYI. The word abused is there again. I know you are not being literal, but I would suggest building the botton end STRONG. example: We built an engine about a year ago for a customer with TRWs, 204/224, TE60, ESP Frontmount, Balanced, and more. He never hit the track. Dyno'ed the car at 385 rwhp and 525 rwtq. This was with about 21# of boost. His 42# injectors wouldn't do anymore. Two weeks later we installed a 3" downpipe and as he left our shop, he snapped the crank between the 1 & 2 rod journals. Totally destroyed the botton end, bend 10 or 12 valves and more. He drove like a mad-man (unless you ask him). He also blow a head gasket, #6, from 2 o'clock back around to 5 o'clock. Yes, that's more the hals the gasket material. I he insists he was " just driving the car... no boost..."

Build it strong.
Click to expand...


Was it a girdled or Steel cap block when he broke the crank? This is why I went with the Level 3 Grooms block with RJC Girdle. I knew it was overkill for the power I plan to make, but it's one less area for me to worry about.
 
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