elecrtrical problem need help

Fuzzy

New Member
Joined
May 26, 2001
I keep blowing the 10 amp ECM/SOL fuse that feeds one of the two brake switches followed by the engine compartment solenoids (wastegate, canister, EVRV and AC clutch). When disconnecting the three wire pink/blk pink/blk purple connector from the vacuum release valve on the brake pedal, the fuse holds when turning on the car.

Do I have a short in the purple wire going to the TCC solenoid, is the vacuum release valve/brake switch bad, or could a bad TCC solenoid cause a low resistance to ground and make this fuse pop?

Thanks for your help
 
I unplugged the connector to the top brake switch that feeds the TCC solenoid. I also unplugged the connector to the TCC solenoid at the transmission. Re-plugged back in and took for a drive and the fuse now holds. Does anyone have any ideas what is going on. This is driving me crazy.
 
Most likely a TCC solenoid or wire shorting in the tranny.

Change the fluid and filter lately?

Easy to pinch the wire in there.

If it blows again just unplug the connector at the tranny and see if the new fuse will hold for a while.

And you will have no lockup and 3rd and 4th gear switches during this testing period.

If the fuse holds after this test it's inside the tranny.

Or you can do a resistance check between the two solenoid terminals when it occurs with an accurate ohmeter and look for a short.
 
Come to think of it, this started happening sometime after I replaced the transmission pan with a new deep pan. I can unplug the TCC connector and drive it. If I do get another short with it plugged in, how do you check for a short? Do I look for a low resistance to ground on each prong with the meter set to 200 ohms? I guess I could just drop the pan again and look for a pinched wire or just replace the solenoid to eliminate that possibility. Thanks Salvage.
 
If you did the pan install you pinched the wires. ;)

Probably under the bottom feeder sump tube if you have one.

That's how I did it. :(

Probably not the solenoid although having a spare on hand is always a good idea anyway. Even though they ain't cheap.

Took my car about 5 months to cut through the wire after the bottom feeder sump install. :rolleyes:

Ohmeter should be on the X10 or X100 or X20 scale to read for the short.

Solenoid is about 20 ohms or so normally.

A and D are the pin numbers to check, purple wire is in A, tan/blk wire is in D. Check the tabs where those wires plug into for the reading.
 
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