Dying issue

sams86gn

Member
Joined
Dec 5, 2011
I've been having a dying issue. It's happened maybe 8-10 times. It almost always happens when coming too a stop or in park. I thought it was IAC but it just did it again while I was trying too accelerate. I haven't had a fuel pressure gauge on it while driving but when it dies I've pushed down on the end of the fuel rail and it squirts gas out so I don't think it's a fuel problem. Usually I have too let it sit for about 5 min and then it will crank right back up and run fine but sometimes it will just crank back up without waiting. No codes on the scanmaster. What could this be?
 
As long as you keep your foot on the gas it runs fine. IAC 36 TPS .44. IAC does change a lot for example when I put in park it dropped from 36 to 0 and then when back up to 3. This is driving me crazy and making me afraid too take the car anywhere.
 
Scanmaster, or P logger data?
Just because fuel "squirts", doesn't mean the pressure is correct. It will squirt at 10psi, while the engine won't run like that...
 
My wideband was showing 14.7 when it died the last time sitting at a stop sign. I will put my fuel pressure gauge on it and take it for a ride and see what it looks like but now the car is running fine. So aggravating.
 
I was having this problem awhile ago. Unplug the hot wire kitt and plug it back in stock,see if this fixes your problem,just dont beat on the car doing this.
 
Gene, I did that and have been driving it all day with no issues. I can't say for certain that is/was the problem because sometimes it has gone all day without issues before but what ended up being the problem with your hot wire kit?
 
Im really not sure, i took the car down to the guy that installed the hotwire kitt and he fixed it. I did ask him what the problem was and i think he told me they were having some kind of corrostion or something like that. You can switch it back and see if you get the dieing issue again. Remember take it easy with it plugged in stock. Maybe someone else here can give you,and me for that matter a more descriptive answer to this problem. If mine stopped, i shut the key off and on and listoned for the fuel pump, if i didnt here it i would get out and switch back to stock, kinda of a pain but at least your not really stuck, just a couple seconds to switch the plugs.
 
Thanks for the help. I'm pretty sure that's what is going on. I did up the fuel 12 percent in all gears too hopefully be a little safer if I forget and get on it a little. Maybe someone will chime in with what the issue is with the hot wire kits...
 
My suggestion is simple:
Install an in car or hood mounted fuel pressure gage. Not only is it a great tool long term, but if it's in fact a fuel pressure issue, it can be seen immediately if the engine stalls.
 
Last edited:
Well Its not the hot wire kit. While running the original harness it did the same thing. It seems to run Real smooth in reverse or drive most of the time but when put in park it starts missing/rough idle. When it died this time scanmaster showed code 42 and when it cranks back up the code is gone. I'm replacing/adding some grounds at the moment and looking into a new ac delco coil pack and module.
 
finally caught it dying on the Power Logger. sitting in park it idles pretty rough, put it in gear and it smooths out. This log was in park. When it dies like this it will not crank up right away but if you let it sit for a few min it will crank up fine. Do yall notice anything in the log that looks like it would cause it to die?
 

Attachments

  • died in park 1.dat
    104.9 KB · Views: 42
finally caught it dying on the Power Logger. sitting in park it idles pretty rough, put it in gear and it smooths out. This log was in park. When it dies like this it will not crank up right away but if you let it sit for a few min it will crank up fine. Do yall notice anything in the log that looks like it would cause it to die?
 
Try this.
Crank the car and let idle.
Then bump the passenger side kick panel where the ecm is and open the hood and start slightly tugging on wires under the hood also the orange wire that connects to the battery.

I had this same problem for about 3 years.
Mine would also start back after sitting a few minutes until one day it wouldn't start back and i finally found that the wire inside the orange ecm wire by the battery had broken but I couldn't see it because the orange coating wasn't hurt.

What was happening was the wire was breaking down more and more each time until it finally broke completely
 


I tracked mine down to the pump hanger connector being corroded. I ordered a new harness from racteonix but while I was wiring for it I swapped in a connector from a spare hanger I had. You will need the teethed connector if you do it or at least I did as I broke the one in there when I took the old connector out.
 
Top