Can anyone id this 3" downpipe? Has no markings on it at all. Thinking about putting it on my t. Car is pretty much stock besides fuel system. Wondering if it will hurt performance at all. Also if i do i have a manual boost controller so i will take of the controller on the pass side valve cover....what to do with wires? Will it post an ses light..do i just let them hang or what? Thx
Downpipe identification...
- Thread starter svenson12
- Start date
That's an ATR external gate downpipe. I own 2 of them. Only difference is that mine are both one piece and yours has sections welded together. Either an earlier part or someone reclocked it for a different app.
Kirban still has diaphragms for that gate. From the look of it I would at least rebuild/inspect that gate. There are better design gates that bolt right on that pipe. I have one with a turbonetics deltagate on it and I know the new turbonetics evolution will bolt on as well as at least one model of TiAL gate (and subsequent chinese knockoffs).
If that pipe were handed to me I would definitely replace the gate with something better. I'm still running an ATR gate I rebuilt on my GN, but next time it gives me fits it shall become a paperweight. Parts are discontinued, kirban bought the stock of diaphragms from ATR and when those are gone they will ALL be paperweights.
Kirban still has diaphragms for that gate. From the look of it I would at least rebuild/inspect that gate. There are better design gates that bolt right on that pipe. I have one with a turbonetics deltagate on it and I know the new turbonetics evolution will bolt on as well as at least one model of TiAL gate (and subsequent chinese knockoffs).
If that pipe were handed to me I would definitely replace the gate with something better. I'm still running an ATR gate I rebuilt on my GN, but next time it gives me fits it shall become a paperweight. Parts are discontinued, kirban bought the stock of diaphragms from ATR and when those are gone they will ALL be paperweights.
If you unhook the wastegate solenoid wires it will trigger the SES light unless you tell the chip burner to delete it. Here's some old pics of mine back when I got the car to show the bleeder valve setup that is fairly common with these gates. I have since deleted all that and run it "tuner style" with the top port open and a rjc valve to help spoolup. Yours (like most) has a sintered bronze vent in the top port and you'll have to replace it with a nipple port to run a bleeder valve. The adjustable bleeder valve allows boost to act on top of the diaphragm, assisting the spring and raising boost pressure. I just use the setscrew to adjust boost.
You will have to notch the turbo shield to clear the gate as shown in the pics.
You will have to notch the turbo shield to clear the gate as shown in the pics.
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Yep ATR. I have a buddy that has one for sale. I would change the wastegate. I've looked at Tial gates and I think a nice 44mm would bolt right on.
If I replace mine it will either be with a used (cheap) deltagate or with a new evolution gate. The newer models of the evolution have locking adjustment screws on top like the atr and the deltagate to add spring pressure. I prefer to have that option, some won't find it necessary. I don't think TiAL offers that option, I have nothing else against tial, and I do believe they are cheaper than the evo.
I think you can run that setup either way. Rumor has it that it'll spool faster putting the vent air into the top port, as the boost will act on both sides of the diaphragm and keep the valve shut longer. I added the rjc ball and spring boost valve to accomplish the same thing. For years I ran the spring that came with the car, which wouldn't let boost below 17psi with the dump pipe open. Never could find a lesser one, took one from my deltagate and made it fit, they are a bit smaller diameter but I forced it onto the plate that the adjustment screw pushes on and it works. What color was the spring that's in it?
Putting the bleedoff pressure back to the top of the gate is probably more reliable. Technically that is metered air (post maf sensor) so it shouldn't be allowed to vent but I doubt you notice any problems runing it the way you have it. Hopefully the spring is weak enough to let you run low boost when you want it. The spring sets the minimum boost level, if it's really stiff you are going to overboost no matter what you do. Your valve adds a controlled boost leak to fool the wategate, just like the factory solenoid does. And I guess if GM didn't care about metered air venting, then you shouldn't either.
Putting the bleedoff pressure back to the top of the gate is probably more reliable. Technically that is metered air (post maf sensor) so it shouldn't be allowed to vent but I doubt you notice any problems runing it the way you have it. Hopefully the spring is weak enough to let you run low boost when you want it. The spring sets the minimum boost level, if it's really stiff you are going to overboost no matter what you do. Your valve adds a controlled boost leak to fool the wategate, just like the factory solenoid does. And I guess if GM didn't care about metered air venting, then you shouldn't either.
You won't need to do this if your car is going to stay mostly stock, but the big advantage to the external gate downpipe is the ability to port the wastegate hole in the turbo much bigger than can be done on a stock wastegate setup. This will allow rock solid boost in higher HP applications, which is the main reason for the existance of this setup. Stock style wastegates can only port the hole in the exhaust housing to the size of the puck, and when you start moving lots of air, that hole can't flow enough to control the speed of the turbo and it overboosts regardless of wastegate setting.
It's kind of overkill to have an external gate on a stock car, but it works. My car doesn't need it either if it makes you feel any better. As grumpy would say, it's "kool guy" parts. If that wastegate gives you any trouble, I strongly suggest you sh!t can it and buy a better one (mail me the spring LOL). New diaphragms are $65 from kirban.
It's kind of overkill to have an external gate on a stock car, but it works. My car doesn't need it either if it makes you feel any better. As grumpy would say, it's "kool guy" parts. If that wastegate gives you any trouble, I strongly suggest you sh!t can it and buy a better one (mail me the spring LOL). New diaphragms are $65 from kirban.
Boost is turned all the way down and still getting 17-18. diaphram was good no cracks..wastegate hat seemed to seal good but that spring was damn stiff. i did get a barbed fitting to replace the vent but made no diff. hope i was correct, i ran it from the top of the hat and spliced into tthe compressor line. Still scratchin my head trying to figure how that adjust valve works....just one vac line coming out of it splicing off like the stock one.....i dont think it was really supposed to be used with the style gate i have, or i could be wrong. anyway, too much boost.
Nope. the bleeder valve you have bolted to the gate in your pic needs to have a line coming off the vent side and that is what needs to be plumbed back to the top of the gate. So that when you adjust the bleeder valve it adjusts the amont of air getting to the top side. OR leave the top port open and try it once with the bleeder valve completely closed or simply run a line straight from the compressor to the bottom of the gate.
If you run an undisturbed line from compressor housing to the bottom port of the gate with nothing else coming off of it, that will definitely tell you without a doubt what the minimum boost level will be with your spring. If it's more than your liking you will need to change springs.
If you run an undisturbed line from compressor housing to the bottom port of the gate with nothing else coming off of it, that will definitely tell you without a doubt what the minimum boost level will be with your spring. If it's more than your liking you will need to change springs.
