My combo is pretty mild. I have a stock motor with a TE-44 turbo and 50's. I am capable of running high to mid 11's (mid 11's if I really push it). My question is...I am getting my tranny rebuilt by Janis Transmissions and I was told the price of the total rebuild will be around a grand if I don't use the two billet parts (forward drum and input shaft). If I do it will be around $2200. Or it will be $1500 if I use just the billet forward drum. Now with a car like mine which is full weight and everything...not planning on going faster than I am now...should I do these two mods? Sounds like these two items are only neccessary if your car is a full race car/weekend racer. My car is mostly street driven with OCCASSIONAL trips to the track. Should I use any of these two items in my rebuild??? Those two parts alone are EXPENSIVE!
Do I really need a billet forward drum and input shaft?
- Thread starter d0n_3d
- Start date
wants a tr
home of the money sucker
- Joined
- Jul 18, 2001
it really depends on what your gonna do with the car, i mean be real with yourself. you know your gonna get a bigger turbo and such and go faster. i just bought a tranny from vince(its still at his shop actually). my car is HOPEFULLY going to go low low 11s and i opted for NO billet parts due to cost....i think it will be ok, ok i pray to god it will be ok. i'm pretty confident in vince's work. he said my tranny was so whacked up he's gonna put it in a test vehicle up there just to make sure everything works good. i'd say just go with no billet and you should be ok. oh yea..women suck..
Clay Thompson
New Member
- Joined
- Feb 3, 2002
Forward Drum
If you have to chose get the foward drum, not the input shaft. If you hold the brake to launch--who does not--or are thinking about a transbrake get them both. The second "unrealized" trannie rebuild will more than pay for the PTS billet parts.
If you have to chose get the foward drum, not the input shaft. If you hold the brake to launch--who does not--or are thinking about a transbrake get them both. The second "unrealized" trannie rebuild will more than pay for the PTS billet parts.
JDSfastGN
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jun 16, 2001
I'd get them I had all the billet peices in mine exept for the new OD planetaries that were recently released and billet input shaft. Guess what I broke? My Od planetary spun all the teeth off and the input shaft was tweeked a little bit(this is on 18#s of boost and street tires that don't know the meaning of hook). I have been through a lot with my tranny, and started off with basically building it stock and now I have every single billet peice available, but if I had to do it all over again I would do all the billet peices at once because the tranny will find the weakest link and kill it really quick. The input is good till 600 lbft but that includes a torque spike on a downshift which you car is capable of with enough boost. With a billet forward drum, hardened stator, and an OEM hardened sun shell you would be pretty good and reliable. But with fast cars anything is possible and its better and cheaper in the long run to over build rather than underbuild
Intercooler
New Member
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
I had a Level 10 trans in my car with nothing billet or hardened other than the stator. It got the crap beat out of it going 11.5-11.7. Took it out and put a newly built 200 with a Stage-Right in it and snapped the drum in it the first time I brought it up to 3500 on the brake. Didn't even get to launch it! Just had no movement at all. The trans guys tried to talk me into them before this happened but I had seen people run good without them. It is a coin-toss really. I now have the CK Performance billet input and drum with a hardened stator. The CK pieces are real nice quality and more budget minded. I have been beating on it pretty good and haven't killed them yet. Even brake launched it! Have the trans shop get a 400 drum and input and compare it to your 200....you will opt for them like I did! Expensive but if you are set on using the 200 you can pay now or pay later. I chose the second road and it cost me a couple hundred more in freshening. Up to you.
ahhhhhhhh i don't know what to do here...i really want both parts...if i get one i should get the other...which is most important and has a more of a chance of breaking? i mean i am only making MAX 450 horse...that isn't too much is it? i am not getting a trans brake installed nor am i ever going to use one...just launching from the brakes...
and i don't race my car very often...maybe 3 times a year at the track...yes i race ALOT on the street but it's mostly from a roll and hardly ever from a dead stop (i have street tires anyways)
basically which billet part is most important? i am guessing the forward drum since the input shaft generally breaks on snap snapping dead stop launches at the track...
and i don't race my car very often...maybe 3 times a year at the track...yes i race ALOT on the street but it's mostly from a roll and hardly ever from a dead stop (i have street tires anyways)
basically which billet part is most important? i am guessing the forward drum since the input shaft generally breaks on snap snapping dead stop launches at the track...
Intercooler
New Member
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
Actually street racing is with spin is what kills them, not slicks and at the track. When you spin then grab like on the street you shock the pieces which probably starts a crack. Next step is they break. If you keep it hooked on the street like at the track your chances increase. Without a doubt do the drum.
" Actually street racing is with spin is what kills them, not slicks and at the track. When you spin then grab like on the street you shock the pieces which probably starts a crack "
If thats true, then why did the stock drum snap when you torqued it up against the brake?
If thats true, then why did the stock drum snap when you torqued it up against the brake?
2quiktocare
Tech Forum Advisor
- Joined
- May 12, 2003
Between the cost of the new parts and the time to pull it apart and rebuild it with the right pieces, you might as well start out with the thing done right the first time. Thing is with a 200 4R, you try to save time and money and it will cost way more of both before you know it. Yes, you can go with a wing and a prayer, but I have found a little overkill goes a long way with maintaining dependability and piece of mind. Yes, well tested and documented billet parts are more spendy, but you know exactly where you are strengthwise, rather than praying it holds. The old saying "you can pay me now, or pay me later" is very fitting here. I love having some insurance myself. Nothing more embarrassing than spooling up against some Vette or Mustang only to launch with a clunk/pop and realize you should of had the billet there. Just my humble opinion. Mark
p.s. Nationals (or what there was of them) was great. At least we got to see the pro classes do qualifying and a great save by Cha Cha.
p.s. Nationals (or what there was of them) was great. At least we got to see the pro classes do qualifying and a great save by Cha Cha.
Don,
We've had a "special" savings account set aside for transmission-related mods for almost a year.
Not including the cost of a good core BRF trans, we budgeted 3500.00 for tran parts, build, & converter.
(Worth it to us NOT to worry.)
Just for perspective.
HTH
Intercooler
New Member
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
The trans had been campaigned in a 10 second Turbo-T for years and a 10.0 Mustang before I got it. It saw a bunch of wheel spin then traction on the street. I just pushed it over the edge! Actually Eric Shertz of Dynotech is the one that believes this theory the most.Originally posted by squeeze87
[/B] "
If thats true, then why did the stock drum snap when you torqued it up against the brake?
I AGREE with this post. I had Vince Janis rebuild mine a few months ago. Yes it might cost more now but why pay more down the road. Plus if you are like most of us on here you will want to go faster down the road. You won't be disappointed.Originally posted by 2quiktocare
Between the cost of the new parts and the time to pull it apart and rebuild it with the right pieces, you might as well start out with the thing done right the first time. Thing is with a 200 4R, you try to save time and money and it will cost way more of both before you know it. Yes, you can go with a wing and a prayer, but I have found a little overkill goes a long way with maintaining dependability and piece of mind. Yes, well tested and documented billet parts are more spendy, but you know exactly where you are strengthwise, rather than praying it holds. The old saying "you can pay me now, or pay me later" is very fitting here. I love having some insurance myself. Nothing more embarrassing than spooling up against some Vette or Mustang only to launch with a clunk/pop and realize you should of had the billet there. Just my humble opinion. Mark
p.s. Nationals (or what there was of them) was great. At least we got to see the pro classes do qualifying and a great save by Cha Cha.
i went ahead and had my tranny rebuilt with a billet forward drum and decided to keep the stock input shaft...vince said it himself that i don't really NEED the billet input shaft right now because i am not making 500+ horsepower and weekend racing my car in the tens all the time...my car is 95% street driven and the motor is bone stock which is only high 11's capable...now he said that he has seen stock forward drums break in 14 second cars...so as you can see the forward drum was my choice...it was $560 from PTS...so that brings my total rebuild to around $1600 when it's all said and done...hey if the input shaft breaks then oh well...just gonna have to pull the tranny out again and have it replaced with a billet one...
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