Do bearings same time as front brakes?

[Weazel]

I've got a post over in brakes, chassis, and suspension tech, and I'm thinking I'm probably gonna have to redo the front brake rotors, pads, and calipers. The Chiltons manual suggests that wheel bearings be done at the same time. The shop I got my inspection done at said my bearings were "close". Of course I think they said that last year as well.
Anyway, I think I'm gonna redo them. Chiltons only tells how to repack them. Just curious if anybody here has done that, or do you just suggest replacing them? I can't imagine it'd cost any more than $50 a wheel, would it? Thanks a lot!

 

[steve hughes]

Good idea to repck the bearings anytime you do brakes. Clen em up, if they look good repack em. Shouldn't cost more than $40.00 for both sides for all new bearings.

 

[green95ss]

I would replace the bearings at the same time. It's actually quite easy, but messy as he!!.

This is the method I use--not sure what Chilton says...

Grab a handful of grease (literally) in your palm and with your other hand holding the bearing, slide it against your palm through the grease, squishing the grease in between the nooks and crannies in the bearing. Keep doing this until you see grease come out the other side of the bearing. This is messy and takes a little while, but it works.

Some people put a bunch of grease and the bearing in a ziploc bag and squish it around, but I haven't tried that method. It seems cleaner, but when you do the "hand" method above, you can easily see the grease coming out the other side fo the bearing, ensuring that you've packed it fully with grease.

You can email me if that description didn't make sense to you.

HTH,

Guhan

 

[SuperSix]

If you have a grease gun, get the Lisle bearing repacker for ~6.00. I would replace the bearings while I was in there, there's a bearing race pressed into the rotor, clean it and inspect it CLOSELY, looking for pitting, wear, etc. If they're fine, re-use them with the new bearings. THe new bearings will include new races, but if they chek out, you shouldn't need to replace them. You can replace them, but it's a bitch, you will need a jhammer, drift, and patience. Depending on how many miles are on the rotors, you might want to replace them as well, they are only 10.00 ea new around here, and they come with new bearing races.

 

[Brian Mc]

No don't replace the bearings unless they are bad i.e. pitted or broken cages or races. and only replace the bad one. Just repack them, replacing them is a waste of money.

 

[Weazel]

$10 for rotors? Are you serious? Wow, sounds like a deal to me. I didn't "mic" the rotors, but just putting a ruler up against them you can see they're at most 15/16" and the insides are flaking rust like crazy in the vents. Chiltons says 0.98" is a minimum thickness, so they're getting replaced as well as the pads and probably the calipers. Thanks for the advice on the bearings too. The shop said mine were getting bad, but I'll definitely look at them. That greasing method sounds like fun, haha. At least that way you're sure they're well greased.

Thanks a lot for the feedback. I am gonna try it myself I think instead of going to Midas.

 

[GNSCOTT]

No don't replace the bearings unless they are bad i.e. pitted or broken cages or races. and only replace the bad one. Just repack them, replacing them is a waste of money.

I agree...bearings just don't go bad in these cars unless you ripped the boot and buried the car in sand. I sandblasted all around mine, cleaned em out, put new boots on (i was stupid and used the fork thingy and it ripped the boots) greased em and they are ready to go.

 

[SuperSix]

I was wrong, they're $19.99 @ Advanced/Discount Auto.

As far as whether or not to replace them, I don't know how many miles you have on your car, but for the ~22.00 per wheel new bearings and seals cost, it's cheap insurance, and one less thing for me to worry about failing. You'll be in there anyway. Don't forget new cotter pins too.

We spend copious amounts of money making our cars faster,
but some balk at spending a few extra dollars to make sure they can stop.

 

[2 QK 4 U]

Be aware of the "CHINESE" Rotors from your local discount auto parts store.

Previous expierence with them has led to a wheel falling off at 70 mph. The studs sheared off...

Now I only use Bendix rotors, they are of quality and are middle of the line...around 30 bucks or so....

Do the bearings, better safe than sorry.

Always do one side at a time too...so you can see how it goes back together if you get your parts mixed up....

Use New Cotter Pins as well....Good Luck!!

 

[TURBOV6]

I would not replace the bearings as what GNSCOTT and Brian Mc mentioned.

Wheel bearings can last more many many miles. I would clean off all the grease and inspect the bearings. If you got one of those plastic/stainless wheel bearings than I would replace them with the wheel bearings that are all SS.

 

[steve hughes]

If you do replace the bearings replace the races also. DO NOT use new bearings with used races. All bearings are not created equal . Different manufacturing specs from different companies. Also do not mix brands of bearings and races.