Decking block for near zero deck height

[Buick Mark]

I know decking a N/A block for near zero or zero deck height does everything good for compression and to ward off detonation due to the better quench area. If you did this to the turbo engine, yes the compression will increase maybe a point and a half or a bit more from the stock 7.8 to 1, The throttle responce will be crisper, BUT will the engine tolerate the same amount of boost WITHOUT encountering detonation due to the tighter quench area Mark

 

[KendallF]

Originally posted by Buick Mark
I know decking a N/A block for near zero or zero deck height does everything good for compression and to ward off detonation due to the better quench area. If you did this to the turbo engine, yes the compression will increase maybe a point and a half or a bit more from the stock 7.8 to 1, The throttle responce will be crisper, BUT will the engine tolerate the same amount of boost WITHOUT encountering detonation due to the tighter quench area Mark

If you're using stock iron heads and a stock style piston, you don't have a quench area. The heads are an open chamber design and the stock pistons, as well as any non-custom replacement piston, have a round dish. The GN1 and TA heads have a closed chamber design but unless you buy custom pistons you won't be able to get any "squish" there due to the piston dish.

So, to answer your question, given that there aren't any quench advantages to raising compression, you can't run as much boost with a given octane when you raise the compression. Many people bump the compression for turbo spool benefits, throttle response, etc. but on these motors it'd be better to do so by using less piston dish or less gasket thickness. You need all of the deck thickness you can get to hold the heads on.

 

[Buick Mark]

Thanks for the responce Kendall, I did a search on this, but wasnt able to find out how other people were raising there comp ratio, different piston, decking, milling heads, less gasket, etc.
Im gonna have to pull my engine this winter to fix the TRW "tight pin" problem, and was pondering this idea, but I'll probably leave well enough alone in the compression area
On the subject of the wrist pins, are the pins modified to be used with the existing pistons or are both the pistons and pins modified, I'd hate to replace the pistons, on top of my stock maf that died 3 weeks ago to be replaced with the LS1 and translator + and extender chip, ugh, and Christmas is comming
Thanks again, Mark