Danny Bee belt drive
- Thread starter TurboTR
- Start date
- Joined
- May 27, 2001
Duttweiler puts these on his high end race only stuff.
I bought one for my old stage 2 race motor.
That motor now belongs to another board member and has not been completed yet. If you have the budget to use one do it.
Call Duttweiler for specifics 805-659-3648.
I bought one for my old stage 2 race motor.
That motor now belongs to another board member and has not been completed yet. If you have the budget to use one do it.
Call Duttweiler for specifics 805-659-3648.
- Joined
- May 27, 2001
STUUUUUUUUUUUUUU
I may do one on my next motor, it depends on what kind of deal Kenny will give me!
I may do one on my next motor, it depends on what kind of deal Kenny will give me!
- Joined
- May 27, 2001
It is dry it has a plate that bolts to where the stock front cover would be.
- Joined
- May 27, 2001
I did a brief search and it looks like about $750.
I would put it north of $1k, $2-3k if you count in things like oiling system and distributor/cam sensor changes. I looked at a couple at Duttweiler's and took some pictures, as I was interested in perhaps making one myself.
They are dry with an oil seal on the cam and crank. If I recall correctly, the one I looked at actually mounted a SBC style water pump and a belt drive front mount distributor. They don't have any oiling provisions so you'd have to be running an external cog belt drive oil pump, either a single stage like the Peterson with a wet sump or a full dry sump.
They are dry with an oil seal on the cam and crank. If I recall correctly, the one I looked at actually mounted a SBC style water pump and a belt drive front mount distributor. They don't have any oiling provisions so you'd have to be running an external cog belt drive oil pump, either a single stage like the Peterson with a wet sump or a full dry sump.
- Joined
- May 27, 2001
If you are already doing a dry sump and electric water pump like on my motor it is not a big deal. $750 on a $25,000 plus motor was not the end of the world.
It's a budget deal, now that I am married my next motor might not have one.
It's a budget deal, now that I am married my next motor might not have one.
** It is dry it has a plate that bolts to where the stock front cover would be. **
I thought it was like a .25" thick piece, ie enough to hold a couple seals, and then a cover that was .25" thinner.
Ain't much easy once you get away from the stock bits.....
Thanks
I thought it was like a .25" thick piece, ie enough to hold a couple seals, and then a cover that was .25" thinner.
Ain't much easy once you get away from the stock bits.....
Thanks
Yeah, is about what I feared. Problem is, I don't feel good at all about the spindly little 2 row chain driving a solid roller with 1.55" valve springs in the 270 lb seat pressure range, lol... So what do the S2 heads people around here do anyway?? Live with it, or?
Todd
Todd
- Joined
- May 27, 2001
Todd,
What are you building this time???
What are you building this time???
Oh nothing extraordinary, just the usual 274" S2/GN1's thing 
But working on getting the valvetrain to work properly. The heads and valvecovers have been set up for the larger dia springs, as well as clrncd for 3/8" pushrods.
I assume most people here just run the chain and alot of pucker power, lol, but not much info on what springs people use and such.
Todd
But working on getting the valvetrain to work properly. The heads and valvecovers have been set up for the larger dia springs, as well as clrncd for 3/8" pushrods.I assume most people here just run the chain and alot of pucker power, lol, but not much info on what springs people use and such.
Todd
Ron Tarabori
New Member
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
Well, I run carbed engines. I turn them 82 to 8500 and not just for 10 seconds. I run springs with seat pressures of 250+ and open pressure around 650. Valve lifts around .670. I've never had a problem with the timing chain. Throw the Cloyes junk away and buy a good Rollmaster setup. If your still worried and want to stay within a price range pick up a gear drive setup. You can usually get nice used ones for a little over a $100 bucks and I think new ones are only around $300.
I talked to Kenny about this same subject and he said for the money use the standard timing chain. He said he does not have problems with them.
Call up Kenny and see what he says, but he recommended for me to stick with it. Mine is a full stage II with a big solid roller in it.
HTH.
Call up Kenny and see what he says, but he recommended for me to stick with it. Mine is a full stage II with a big solid roller in it.
HTH.
- Joined
- May 27, 2001
Rick,
You just saved me some money.
I can always use a brake
Sorry, I know where you work.
You just saved me some money.
I can always use a brake
Sorry, I know where you work.
Ron Tarabori
New Member
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
Like I said I run n/a engines so spring pressures etc aren't what you guys need, but, I run titanium valves, locks and retainers. I've used 5/16 pushrods with no problem but have run the 3/8 also. Actually I prefer the 5/16 as you have more room in the head and they are a bit lighter. I use Isky lifters because they are tall and I can get away with around a 8 inch pushrod although I've seen several engines with short lifters. I just don't like the 9 inch pushrod. As far as the cam nose, I just make sure the nose of the cam is a few thousands shorter than the stack. Then when you put the washer on you make sure you get a good crush. Put a drop of Loctite on the bolt, torque it to about 45 - 50 lbs and go racing. Dont try to save a few bucks on pushrods. Buy the best you can get. For my application the key word is light, light, light. Hope that helps.
