Cylinder 2 oil fouling on new engine

EYE-OPENER

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Joined
Dec 24, 2011
Had engine built by TEC which is one of the top builders around town (maybe 600 miles on it). I just pulled the plugs to change to the non projected types that has been recent conversations around here. #2 cylinder was black and wet, all oTher cylinders were perfect. I put my scope down in the cylinder and there is a tiny bit of oil on top of the piston which keeps me away from fuel issue and piston/walls looked great. Oil pressure is 80 cold, 18-20 hot idle in gear at 750 rpm. Driving around and idle are really nice. I used cometic gaskets, ferrea valves with new guides and seals (int and exh) white spring style, using 20/50 valvoline racing with zddp. Running an RJC pcv valve with an in,ine seperator getting minimal oil. Here's what I have done so far since findings:

1: checked compression in all cylinders (3 clicks) twice. 145-150-147-150-145-145.
2: checked torque on head.
3. Pulled springs on the cylinder and visually the seals look perfect.
4. Valves have no movement side to side and goes up and down and spin very smoothly.

I am stuck...I am going to put two new seals on just because I'm already there and other than that I'm here asking for help. I don't have a leak down tester but if need be I will get one. Thanks for any help guys!
 
Check the intake manifold for oil. I would pull the exhaust manifold to check the exhaust valve. How are you checking the valves? It is difficult to check a seated valve.
 
Does the car smoke? If the intake is dry, take a look at the exhaust valve. Pull the seals and check for cracks on the guides. When you say you had new guides installed..I'm assuming bronze liners were installed?
 
No smoke at all. I believe the bronze liners were installed. I am going to grab new seals tomorrow and check under them to make sure everything looks good. I may put it together with new seals if all else looks good and run it to see if it worked. If not I'll yank a manifold and have a look.
 
Im not going further than doing the valve seals. Depending on if it is the issue or not I will call him. He built the short block and machined the heads and I put the heads on and such...
 
Was the intake manifold tight and aligned? I once had a bad intake seal and it would suck oil from the valley area. It would foul plugs in like 300 miles. Something to look at anyway
 
I tmy machinist just asked me to check the intake runner as well. I torqued the intake to specs in 5 pound increments in proper sequence. I will check the torque of it tonight and run the scope down the cylinders to see what they look like. The intake went on very smooth and used the red permatex 98h as I do on all my intakes and never had this issue...it's a never ending issue with this damn car I swear...
 
You could pull the rockers and psi the intake and see if the intake is leaking. So if isn't oil then its fuel or antifreeze. Oil or AF normally smokes white or bluish fuel. Raw fuel black. As mentioned ignition being weak can cause fuel foul as well as dribbling/fouled injector
 
If it is leaking between the intake and head in the valley area, will supplying air to the cylinder show that? If the valves are closed then it will only show if the valve is leaking at the seat right? When I pulled the brand new plug after warm up it had fresh oil on the electrode. It certainly wasn't gas or antifreeze...if I had an intake runner leak, wouldn't it give me weird scanmaster #s?
 
If it is leaking between the intake and head in the valley area, will supplying air to the cylinder show that? If the valves are closed then it will only show if the valve is leaking at the seat right? When I pulled the brand new plug after warm up it had fresh oil on the electrode. It certainly wasn't gas or antifreeze...if I had an intake runner leak, wouldn't it give me weird scanmaster #s?



As far as PSI'ing the cylinder via plug hole and the intake valve open will be useless as other valves on other cylinders will be open and it will bleed off as well as the intake entrance is open and will leak out.



As far as the intake leaking affecting the SM readings well maybe not if its still in open loop...not warmed up.


IMO oil entering one cylinder.....If you know for sure its oil....... common places to start and arent listed in any order.

Intake manifold gasket, intake manifold cracked, valve guide seal (one may have gotten torn on install), valve guide worn/cracked.
 
If it is leaking between the intake and head in the valley area, will supplying air to the cylinder show that? If the valves are closed then it will only show if the valve is leaking at the seat right?......

That is exactly what I would do! :)

If nothing shows up, drive the car for a 50 mile or so trip and be sure to get into boost to help the rings seat further.
 
How was the engine broken in? Did you hit it with boost once engine got to operating temp?
 
I ran it for 25 minutes at the rpm required and then took it down the street and power braked it to 5 psi for 5 seconds in three cycles. Then came back and let it cool and changed the oil. The oil looked great and no smoke at all. My machinist told me that it would be real uncommon that one cylinder would act up due to an improper break in. With all other cylinders looking good he thinks intake gasket. I'll check tonight.
 
Ok...so some back peddling will begin...now..
So, I pulled the plenum and at first it looked not so wet, but then I looked with both eyes open and sawa real thin film of oil and the front and back walls were pretty wet. I looked down in each runner and it looked consistently wet above the head and below the intake...I have a separator and there's oil on the output and in the hose leading up to the plenum and in it. I have two big filters on the valve covers and am going to block that PCV shit right off. I'm going to clean it and run her so the excess burns off. I also looked at the other first set of plugs and one other one was showing a little bit of what this cylinder was doing. I'll get her buttoned up and going on a long run Sunday so I will let y'all know how she turns out.
 
Yeah sucking oil. Mine did the same thing puddled up on the PP. Compression looks good. Agree plug the PCV and run it!!!
 
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