Crank Sensor-tps Problem Help !!!!!!!!!!

[cturboaddict]

I have noticed in replacement of my crankshaft that I had hooked up the crank sensor wrong. I had the three tabs that are attached to the harmonic balancer on the outside of the sensor instead of running through it . The question I had was will this affect the car ( an 85 Regal T-type )?
Also my other question was at about 1/2 throttle I seem to get a stutter under acceleration. And when I set my TPS and I act as if I am accelerating with the lever to watch the voltage rise it gets up to about 3.87 and then all of a sudden it drops to .7 then goes back up to about 4.2 and then ends at 4.6. All the way up to 3.8 is smooth and then bang the skip?????? Does anyone know if this any effect on my problem??? Every TPS that I checked does the same thing.

 

[FJM568]

hmmm...crank sensor situation...I'm surprised it even ran...

As for the tps, are you checking it with a digital VOM or are you using an analog VOM??? Use an analog VOM, the needle reacts faster than the digital and you will be able to see all the little skips and misses in the tps easier than if you use a digital VOM...If in fact you do have a dead spot in the tps, then it is bad and needs to be replaced...

 

[cturboaddict]

Are you serious about the crank sensor??
And with the TPS yes I am using a DVM not an anolog?

 

[FJM568]

Well, with the crank sensor, if the interrupter ring on the balancer was not going through the "fingers" on the crank sensor, I'm surprised that the ecm was even getting a signal to start the motor, let alone run at all...

For checking the tps, at least with my DVOM, I find that it doesn't "scroll" across the range of numbers fast enough to see any dropouts...That is why using an analog(with needle pointer) is so good for this check...As you rotate the throttle arm, the needle moves smoothly from .42v(or whatever your low tps setting is) up to your max tps setting...If the needle drops down to 0v and then jumps back up when you are inbetween the min and max tps setting, then you've got a dead spot in the tps and it needs to be replaced...That's why I suggested you check with analog and NOT a DVOM...

If you actually do have a dead spot on the tps, that is probably why you are getting a "stutter" while driving...Obviously, the ecm uses the tps(among other things), to tell the injs how much fuel to squirt into the cyls while driving...If your tps voltage drops down to or close to 0v, then you won't be injecting as much fuel into the motor, which makes it run lean, and/or detonate, and/or stutter or some other driveability problem...

 

[Buick From Hell]

Well, the crank sensor's outer tab is what 'reads' the trigger wheel, and it IS just a magnetic switch. Sounds feasible that if it's close enough, even OUTSIDE the wheel, the wheel would still magnetically close the switch...

 

[cturboaddict]

I guess I had it hooked up right.

I looked at it as the two aluminum slots is what the three tabs on the balancer went through not the black peice. DUH. Just have to get my IAC set. Dont have a scantool though. Gonna try it oldschool. Does anyone know where I can get a scan tool for a good price??? If not, what is a resonable price for one??