Converter Lockup Problems

[hgriz]

My torque converter is locking up in 1st through 3rd. The shifts are really hard. I assumed that it was the TCC as usual however after replacing the TCC I still have the problem. Is there something else to check or should I assume that I bought a defective one and replace it again? By the way I'm sure I did it right this is the second time I've replaced it and it worked fine the first time. I also swaped ECM's to rule that out.
Heath

 

[MeanBuicks]

The TCC system does not have the ability to lock in first unless the TCC valve in the pump is stuck in the applied position. If this is the case however, the converter will also lock in reverse and the car will stall when dropped into any gear like popping the clutch on a manual.

If your converter acts normal when you put it in gear while the vehicle is not moving, the TCC valve is not stuck.

Try disconnecting your transmission wiring harness and see what happens on a test drive. If it still malfunctions, the problem is in the trans. If it does not lock at all, you have a control problem outside of the transmission.

 

[hgriz]

Sorry it took so long to get back. Okay I'll go try what you suggested and let you know what I find.
thanks

 

[hgriz]

Okay I unplugged the tranny wiring harness (on the drivers side right?) and it seemed to work better. Not totaly sure if the converter locked up or not. The rpms were at 2050-2075 in od at 60 (mabye someone can say if it was locked up at this speed). Like I said though it felt better. When I drive at 20 its been realy rough feeling almost shaking back and forth and when I tried it with the harness unplugged it felt fine. So where should I look next?

 

[pure_boost]

I recently had a problem of my TC not locking up at all. Try looking up a post under my name about it w/in the last month. There were some suggestions on how to test the electrical circuit out that controls the TCC. I don't know what i'm doing, but if you need any help, let me know. But I'm sure there are some experts on here that can help you out a lot better than I. Good luck.

 

[hgriz]

I read through your post pure_boost and it would probably be helpful if I had a multimeter, however unfortunatly mine broke and I can't afford a new one for a while (being a college student really sucks when it comes to having money when you need it). Anyways is there a posibility that a brake switch could cause this or something else? What exactly do I need to look at ( even if it requires a multimeter, cause eventualy i'll have another one)? Any help is appreciated.

 

[pure_boost]

It's frustrating sometimes...

I know how you feel about the money thing, I'll be a junior this fall. Anyway, the only thing you really need a multimeter for is to check the resistance through the TCC solenoid (pins A&D). It should be around 24-26ohms. A test light can usually be used for the rest of it. The only reason I used a multimeter as opposed to the test light was b/c my test light was acting up. As far as a faulty brake switch goes, put the test light on term. F on the ALDL. It should light up w/ the ignition on and go out when you press the brake pedal. Either way, I can't see where it would cause the torque converter to lock up in 1-3. Keep us updated on what you find out.

 

[hgriz]

Okay I used my test light on terminal F (top left on aldl correct?) and it lit up with key on and went off when I pressed the brake so I guess its working. I also checked A and D in the ALDL with my test light: A did not light up D however did light up. This was with car idling in park. Is A supposed to light up? I noticed in your post that you had 12 V to both A and D pure_boost. Obviously I didn't have much if any to A. So what does this mean? What should I look at next? Should I check some of the other pins on the ALDL?

 

[hgriz]

By the way I discovered today that when the converter locks up at 60 the rpm's are at about 1800. So I answered my own question from an earlier post.

 

[pure_boost]

I appologize...

I should have been more clear when I was talking about pins A and D. There are those located on the ALDL, but then another set is located on the wires connected to the tranny on the driver's side. They're labeled A,B,C,D. I'm not sure if one set corresponds to the other or not, but I believe that the two that are supposed to have power (w/in the set of wires on the tranny) is the A and D pins, ignition on, (i don't think car has to be running). Hopefully after you get that checked out, one of the gurus can chime in b/c i'm only going by what i've found on mine and what i've been told.

 

[hgriz]

Oops. Okay its probably my fault I should have used my brain when reading. Anyways I'll go check it again tommorrow.
Thanks for the help

 

[hgriz]

Okay I used my test light to check the tranny wiring harness. The key was in ignition on but not started with wiring harness plugged in.I don't know which is a,b,c ,or d so I just did it this way: A is top left (or front side of tranny), B is top right (or back side of tranny, C is bottom left, and D is bottom right.

RESULTS

A: lit up
B: did not light up
C: lit up
D: did not light up

Okay so what does this mean? How does it pertain to my problem?

 

[pure_boost]

I believe you have C and D mixed up, but you have power to both the wires that I did w/ my multimeter. . . . . .which I believe is how it is supposed to be. So I'm guessing the electical stuff is working ok. Beyond this point though, I'm lost. I'm sure someone else can give you the help you need. ....at least better than i can.

 

[hgriz]

Okay thanks for the help. Mabye someone else will take a look.