Chasing KR still
- Thread starter SteveZ82
- Start date
SteveZ82
Active Member
- Joined
- Mar 31, 2019
It is. Motor mounts are brand new. Every bushing on the car is replaced too. I mean the car is very stiff.
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Possible
- Joined
- May 26, 2001
Instead of putting a ratchet strap on the alternator bolt, which puts un-needed stress on the factory cast aluminum accessory bracket which is as rare as unicorn's teeth to find when you break it, I would suggest RJC's HD rear motor brace kit. Works great in my exp and the engine only moves as much as the rubber bumper can flex, which is basically none.
rjcracing.com
Downpipe hitting the control arm, and or the firewall to floor pan seam is very common. With regards to the firewall / floor pan seam, on any "new to me" Turbo Buick, I check to see if the previous owner / owners fixed this. If not, I break out the Dremel tool and 8# sledge. I notch that damn seam, hammer it down flat all around the downpipe and transmission bell housing area that I can get too, then shoot some primer and black paint over the area to keep it from rusting. Effectively killing two birds with one hammer. And said tools and paint come out again when the trans gets swapped/rebuilt, in order to completely hammer the seam flat. Your hands will thank you.
Hope this helps.
Patrick
Rear Motor Brace
Downpipe hitting the control arm, and or the firewall to floor pan seam is very common. With regards to the firewall / floor pan seam, on any "new to me" Turbo Buick, I check to see if the previous owner / owners fixed this. If not, I break out the Dremel tool and 8# sledge. I notch that damn seam, hammer it down flat all around the downpipe and transmission bell housing area that I can get too, then shoot some primer and black paint over the area to keep it from rusting. Effectively killing two birds with one hammer. And said tools and paint come out again when the trans gets swapped/rebuilt, in order to completely hammer the seam flat. Your hands will thank you.
Hope this helps.
Patrick
SteveZ82
Active Member
- Joined
- Mar 31, 2019
This is very helpful. Like I said, I think that the KR I have is a result of things rattling around. it doesn't matter if I lean or richen my WOT settings either. I've done everything I can afford to do with mechanicals/electric. I remember someone at one time recommending this brace. I'll order one up when I have the $$$. Thanks for all the help!Instead of putting a ratchet strap on the alternator bolt, which puts un-needed stress on the factory cast aluminum accessory bracket which is as rare as unicorn's teeth to find when you break it, I would suggest RJC's HD rear motor brace kit. Works great in my exp and the engine only moves as much as the rubber bumper can flex, which is basically none.
Rear Motor Brace
Downpipe hitting the control arm, and or the firewall to floor pan seam is very common. With regards to the firewall / floor pan seam, on any "new to me" Turbo Buick, I check to see if the previous owner / owners fixed this. If not, I break out the Dremel tool and 8# sledge. I notch that damn seam, hammer it down flat all around the downpipe and transmission bell housing area that I can get too, then shoot some primer and black paint over the area to keep it from rusting. Effectively killing two birds with one hammer. And said tools and paint come out again when the trans gets swapped/rebuilt, in order to completely hammer the seam flat. Your hands will thank you.
Hope this helps.
Patrick
SteveZ82
Active Member
- Joined
- Mar 31, 2019
I’ve been working on my house the last couple months and haven’t had time for the car. So, today, I took her out and changed the oil with rotella t4 15w-40, just want to try this oil. I ripped it and like close to zero KR. I really think my kR is the exhaust rattling. It really only happens when I have passengers.
Man, these cars are a chore.
- Joined
- Sep 24, 2010
I love RJC's parts, but be careful with this one. I had one and it pinched a brake line. Jus' sayin'.
Passengers = additional load on the engine. Make sure it's not real kr.
- Joined
- May 28, 2001
Close is ok in hand grenades and horse shoes.
Continue screwing around & you'll find that your budget is really wrecked when you blow it up....
- Joined
- Sep 24, 2010
You forgot the first date.......LOL
SteveZ82
Active Member
- Joined
- Mar 31, 2019
It was less than 2 deg at shift. I think I know what’s going on. Getting to the end of the driving season here so I’ll worry about it later
Did about 175 miles today. Ran great. That LT1 MAF and translator I put in is a noticeable improvement
- Joined
- Sep 24, 2010
Funny you should mention "end of the driving season"...... It still hit 100 degrees here in Phoenix today.
Next week will prolly just be the beginning of driving season here...... LOL October is really iffy here, it's either really nice, or it stays stupid hot until Halloween....
Once it does cool off, we get until early June....
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SteveZ82
Active Member
- Joined
- Mar 31, 2019
I’m in the Midwest. Right now it’s perfect for turbos. Cool air and no humidity. I was spooling real good today. But snow and salt coming soon. I might take the time now to repair my ac and convert to 134a. Then save over winter and maybe do ceramic coating.
Make a pull in 3rd from a roll. No OD or downshift to 2nd. Any knock at the top of 3rd?
SteveZ82
Active Member
- Joined
- Mar 31, 2019
Confirmed we found the culprit. It's not fuel or anything with the tune. The lowered springs are causing the aftermarket downpipe and exhaust to rattle around. My downpipe hits the upper control arm and the magnaflows are hitting the floor pans. Especially when I have people in the car. Plan is to get the car back to stock springs in the spring (pun intended) and re-align the exhaust. I love the way the car looks with this suspension but it's a pretty harsh ride. Guy doing the work is a turbo freak with a shop here in Illinois.
Sorry for posting back to such an old post but thought this could be helpful for others.
