Changing door speakers in concert series 86 T Type
- Thread starter eagleguy
- Start date
- Joined
- Aug 1, 2003
would have been nice if it was as simple as removing the CS11 cover but its not and if you try you will break the cover ... you need to remove the entire lower door panel
two philips screws at the arm rest , slide that off
behind where the armrest was are two large phillips screws into door , remove those screws
the panel is held on with trim fasteners (may want to have some new trim fasteners handy to reattach) and just pops loose at edges , and slide panel forward off the door handle then slide out from the upper panel
the P/DL switch can then be unplugged (spin off blue retainer first) and remote mirror control can be removed from the bezel (really small allen screw)
the speakers are held on with 9/32" (8mm) headed long screws
two philips screws at the arm rest , slide that off
behind where the armrest was are two large phillips screws into door , remove those screws
the panel is held on with trim fasteners (may want to have some new trim fasteners handy to reattach) and just pops loose at edges , and slide panel forward off the door handle then slide out from the upper panel
the P/DL switch can then be unplugged (spin off blue retainer first) and remote mirror control can be removed from the bezel (really small allen screw)
the speakers are held on with 9/32" (8mm) headed long screws
Did you know that the factory door and dash speakers are originally wired in parallel? If you just swap in some aftermarket speakers with the factory head unit still in place you will damage the radio. It will blow out one of the channels. That's why I have no sound on the right side of my car.
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I believe the factory speakers were 10 ohm (not sure of the #, but it was fairly high) resistance. If you wire 2 10 ohm speakers in parallel you end up with 5 ohms of resistance.
If you install aftermarket speakers that are most likely 4 ohm and wire them in parallel (which you would do if you just swap them in) you would wind up with 2 ohm resistance. The factory radio can't handle the resistance that low.
You will end up blowing out one of the channels of the factory radio. It will sound like crap, and you will have sound only on one side of the car
There is a way to change the wiring so they're not run in parallel, but I can't seem to find the thread that shows the best way to do it.
This is a very good thread
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/th...info-thread-including-concert-sound-2.263874/
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/th...info-thread-including-concert-sound-2.263874/
Thanks. But I do not see any reference to neg or pos as would be indicated on replacement speakers. Am I missing something?
That is some great information. Thanks
Right now it appears either both of my rear deck speakers (both sides) are dead or the radio has a bad channel. My initial intention is to not touch the radio but to just replace the speakers which is why the pos and neg questions. I am assuming I will not be able to use the factory speaker wire connections at the speaker.
That's why I asked about the positive and negative colors.
I just checked with Crutchfield on this as I could not find any 8 ohm speakers. They said the as long as I used quality 4 ohm speakers there should be no issue.
What's the difference between a quality 4 ohm speaker and a cheap 4 ohm speaker? None as far as your factory radio is concerned, because you will wind up with a 2 ohm load unless you change the wiring of the front speakers.
The Kenwood door speakers installed in my car were the cause of the damage to my factory radio.
I am not saying I believe them but I do think they might be giving the wrong information.
I just replaced my rear speakers with Kenwood KFC 6965S. Rear speakers now work but sound kinda crappy to me. Still looking for a decent set of 5.25" 8ohm speakers for the doors but I do not see much out there. I have the KFC 1365S 5.25" on hand but they are only 4 ohm and might not sound any better than the OEM ones based on what happened with the rears.
