car will fire but dies right away..?

[chumanga]

well the car is all back together from a long rebuild it went from a stock t type to one with the following; forged pisons, ported and polished heads and intake, 009 injectors, upgraded stock turbo, LT 3" DP, atr 3" single shot exhaust, you know all the regular stuff =) but anyways it will fire right away, good oil pressure at 50 with the preluber before start up, fuel pressure gauge reads like 45 before i turn the key, when i go to start it though it will fire up and then will die, i can do it a few times with giving it a lil more gas each time and eventually have it running but i have to keep my foot on the gas, ive started it 4 times so far and one time it actually idled but was a little rough and this was after holdin the gas for a lil bit and the scanmaster said it was idling around 750 it might have dropped to 500, now since making all of these mods do i need to adjust the iac and tps? or do you have anyother ideas, i did break in the cam for 20 mins at 2 grand and it seemed pretty smooth but the low end smoothness well doesnt exist.

thanks for any input

Lance.

 

[SLOW_85]

85 or 87 ecm?
what chip?
what maf?
could be a vacuum leak.
TPS or IAC needs checked.
prolly not running long enough temp wise,
to get into closed loop operation.
could be alot of things.

 

[chumanga]

87 ecm, 87 Maf, chip by red armstrong

 

[bruce]

Originally posted by chumanga
well the car is all back together from a long rebuild it went from a stock t type to one with the following; forged pisons, ported and polished heads and intake, 009 injectors, upgraded stock turbo, LT 3" DP, atr 3" single shot exhaust, you know all the regular stuff =) but anyways it will fire right away, good oil pressure at 50 with the preluber before start up, fuel pressure gauge reads like 45 before i turn the key, when i go to start it though it will fire up and then will die, i can do it a few times with giving it a lil more gas each time and eventually have it running but i have to keep my foot on the gas, ive started it 4 times so far and one time it actually idled but was a little rough and this was after holdin the gas for a lil bit and the scanmaster said it was idling around 750 it might have dropped to 500, now since making all of these mods do i need to adjust the iac and tps? or do you have anyother ideas, i did break in the cam for 20 mins at 2 grand and it seemed pretty smooth but the low end smoothness well doesnt exist.

thanks for any input

Lance.

Cam Sensor 180 out?.

 

[chumanga]

well now i went i out to fire it again after the last post about the ecm and maf.. and it fired and idled, its not a smooth idle, maybe cuz of cam? it ranged between 500 and 825 up and down like 550 750 525 etc not up to 800s to much, then i killed it waited a few minutes then went to start it again and it wouldnt get to a idle on its and tried a few times with out touching the gas and it still woulnt would fire then die immediately. i gave it some gas to get it going and had to keep it up for a few seconds around 1000 then let off slowly and it would idle on its own again. so im thinking it may be ok and just needs to get everything adjusted once its drivable to fine tune it. unless someone has gone throught the same situation and knows what to do.

as far as the cam sensor being off 180 what would it perform like, its gettin to idle on its own so im thinking that isnt the problem but may be had my finger in the hole and it was definatley on the compression stroke when we were bumpin it over to get it at tdc, and i watched the tape on the balancer pass the first time on teh exhaust stroke.

 

[chumanga]

ok more numbers, went and started it again and it was running on its own the whole time idle between 600 and 825

i wrote down everything from my scanmaster, i dont know what everything is so it may be irrelavent but here it is

o2 400-550 most of the time would spike to 775 and down to 330 some times

af 06

LB 40-54

Int 124-135

BL 109

ATS 71

tps .40

iac 78

cc 54 kept rising up to 230 when i changed screen

mal 23

 

[SLOW_85]

Not too familiar with the scanmaster.
I use turbolink.
IAC looks too high for sure.
When power is interrupted to the ecm it will reset.
When power is restored it takes awhile for it to relearn and will run rough for awhile.
Here's the specs from gnttype
http://www.gnttype.org/maint/quickref.html

 

[chumanga]

ok how do i know when its in a closed loop is my first Q

i need to fix a small coolant leak then i will get the iac dialed in with the tps following that.

thanks for the help

 

[SLOW_85]

Well on T-Link it shows you.
It goes into closed loop when it reaches operating temp or O2 sensor reaches 600 degrees.
I don't know if scanmaster shows open/closed loop operation.
It can go in and out,especially at idle.
The exhaust temps will cool down.
A bad coolant sensor can cause probs as well.

 

[Lee Thompson]

?

Not very wise on electrical ssystem, but doesn/t the VSS have to see 45 mph for the new chip to learn.

 

[SLOW_85]

I'm no expert

Originally posted by Lee Thompson
Not very wise on electrical ssystem, but doesn/t the VSS have to see 45 mph for the new chip to learn.

The way I understand it the BLM is the only number stored.
The integrator resets each time you start the car.
The car will use the last BLM number learned.
No block learn under PE mode or open loop.

 

[turbogimp]

af 06
LB 40-54
Int 124-135
BL 109
ATS 71
tps .40
iac 78
cc 54 kept rising up to 230 when i changed screen
mal 23

hey your mal 23 is check engine code 23 is your mat sensor hooked up?

your iac is out of wack but thats tuning.
HTH

 

[chumanga]

no, i didnt get the mat sensor off of another car, i thought ive read that you can get by with out it, if i do need it and its important i will go find one, but i wasnt looking forward to hunting around the junkyards looking for a sensor.

 

[SLOW_85]

Originally posted by chumanga
no, i didnt get the mat sensor off of another car, i thought ive read that you can get by with out it, if i do need it and its important i will go find one, but i wasnt looking forward to hunting around the junkyards looking for a sensor.

You need it to run the 87 ecm.
Without it ,should get a default reading.
Some auto part stores carry them.
You will need the pins for the ecm.