Car is quitting on me - help!

PerryB

New Member
Joined
May 28, 2006
Looking for some advice on troubleshooting an odd and troubling problem.. Getting ready for a Turbo Buick meet a few hours from home this weekend, and now thinking of leaving her home if this can't be diagnosed and fixed quickly.

She just flat quit on me twice while driving around town yesterday, Both times just cruising at about 40mph. Without warning of any kind, engine just stops. Happened to be looking at the Scanmaster at that moment and it appeared to lose all power. Display was all dashes. Check engine light comes on, I bump into neutral and coast to the side of the road. No malfuntion codes appearing on the Scanmaster and all other readings appear normal...maybe a little hot at 172 degrees?

Nothing obvious under the hood, battery connections are tight, etc..so I start her back up and drive a few more miles without any problem. A couple hours later, time to come home, same thing happens again. Stop, wait, start, go. This time as I'm pulling into the garage, I look down and see malfunction code 45 - running rich. I have a brand new O2 sensor replaced weeks ago, and fuel pressure at idle is 35 psi (where it has been for forever) Don't know if this is normal but I did notice that psi climbs to 40 as soon as the engine is turned off, then back down to 35 when you start up again. I can't see fuel pressure going down the road.

Does this sound familiar? Any ideas, suggestions? Only other thing I can think of is that I occasionally hear some light rattling noise just as I'm accelerating, then goes away. I've heard of folks having trouble with cracked manifolds, but I can't see any cracks. Would this cause a false rich mixture reading? Last thing, I swear I could smell a little something I haven't smelled before when getting out of the car...hard to describe...not pleasant, like something burning? No smoke or anyhting like that and it went away quickly, doesn't linger.

Thanks for any guidance - I have 48 hours!
 
Does it do this at acceleration or deceleration?

Check your battery cable and make sure it isn't hitting anything. Make SURE the pos isn't grounding. Under accel it can pinch,especially if you have stock motor mounts and no torque strap. That smell might be wire insulation.
 
Hmmm..don't recall if accel or decel? Thanks for the tip. I looked closely and the hot wires are snug and totally isolated with loom all the way to starter. Something else...

Noticed my malfunction code 45 stays up on the Scanmaster all the time now, although the check engine light is off. Are my 45 fault and engine/electrical dying on the road issues related, may coincidental?

I thought an exhaust leak or cracked manifold (if that's the rattling I hear at times) would cause lean readings, correct?

Thinking about another O2 sensor? If I really am running rich, how could I tell? Would plugs look any different? They've only got a couple thousand miles on them...

Any other thoughts on how to gather more/better data? Maybe don't want to drive too much if it really is rich?

Thanks Gang!
Perry

Feel free to call if you prefer 920-205-1295
 
I've been having a similar problem. May be a bad ground, may be a bad pcm... those would be my first guesses. Bad cam sensor would cause it to stall randomly like that too, so would a bad ignition module but they wouldn't cause that code...
 
Thanks again. Ignition module and coil pack have one season on them. Probably the cam sensor has never been changed - Maybe I'll post an ad for one.

I'm still in there looking for "loose stuff"...
 
Not yet - spent all day today at the midwest TR meet in Volo, Il. Great event, even if I had to drive the Malibu!

When it rains, it pours...went out tonight to look around some more, noticed brake lights on. Brake pedal needed to be lifted up, then stayed. Ugghhh!

Back at it in the morning..going to get to the ECM, check connectors, wire routing, etc...someone also mentioned ignition fuse. Trying to find something before buying replacement parts...
 
Ignition module and coil pack have one season on them.

i'd probably still take a look at the coil pak & ign module. they may be getting hot and not firing the cylinders thereby causing the 02 sensor to report a rich condition (just a thought).:confused:

how long do you have to wait before the car will start again after it shuts down?

bw jones
 
Look at the fuseable link by the starter. mine was doing same thing untill it burned up completely.I changed coil,ign module,cam sensor,crank trigger all for a 2.00 fuseable link just a thought?
 
I know I can check the coil pack by measuring resistance across opposite terminals...is there some way to check the ignition module without replacing it?

I'll check that fusible link also and report back...

Thanks Guys!
 
I know I can check the coil pack by measuring resistance across opposite terminals...is there some way to check the ignition module without replacing it?

I'll check that fusible link also and report back...

Thanks Guys!


Caspers make a tool. Measuring resistance not reveal a bad module though...
 
Found something..

The lower turbo bracket mounting bolt was missing, allowing the negative battery cable end to hang loose. I'm hoping this bad grounding situation is responsible at least for the mystery stops. Will have to drive some tomorrow to test it out. I'm wore out now from replacing that bolt - what a pain to get the bracket and the wire connector lined up. Got it though.

Last year, I read on the gnttype web page a quick reference chart that calls for 11 - 13K ohms across each of the three terminal pairs. I was getting a miss at higher engine rpms. I had one pair measure way outside the good range, replaced the coil pack with a new one (all measured 11-13K ohms), and problem disappeared. This is for the coil pack, not the ignition module.

Hope I'm done with this - thanks for the tips.
 
BW - forgot to answer your question... Both times when the car stopped on me, I waited no more than a minute or so. Then started right up. May have started right away though...
 
Crank sensor

Try replacing the crank sensor. My GN did something similar to me this year where it just died. Turned out to be the crank sensor.
 
BW - forgot to answer your question... Both times when the car stopped on me, I waited no more than a minute or so. Then started right up. May have started right away though...


doesn't sound like it's a heat related problem 'cause it would certainly take more than a minute for a heat soaked component to cool down.

you may have found the problem with the negative battery cable not being connected ....... all the current for the car's charging system was having to go through the small black wire that is screwed to the passenger side inner fender. i know a guy that neglected to reconnect the negative battery to the front of his engine a couple years ago. his car would miss real bad under load.

let us know if your problem still exists.

bw jones
 
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