Cam Sensor Rebuild Service

[scot w.]

GNS Performance Turbo Regal Cam Sensor Rebuild Service

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We are proud to announce that we are now rebuilding cam sensors for the 84-87 Buick Turbo Regal. Why buy a remanufactured cam sensor when you can save $100.00 and have us rebuild your old one back to new? Gary Tarwater & I spent a great deal of time at Richard Clark's place learning how to rebuild these "Properly" with the proper jig. So, you can rest assure your cam sensor will be better than if you were to buy a remanufactured one from a large parts store. At this time we do NOT replace or repair the cam sensor Caps.

NOTE: We will be in Bowling Green for the GS Nationals so we will not be able to rebuild them during that time. If you need one rebuilt before then you must get it to us before Oct. 12th.


PS: Please remove your cam sensor cap, we will not need it to rebuild your cam sensor!

Rebuild Cost: $80.00 - This includes the return shipping!

Rebuild Process:

• We completely take it apart and clean it inside & out.
• We clean the cam sensor gear.
• We then balance the top reluctor ring, which was never done on OEM cam sensors. (Same as Richard Clark does)
• We replace the two Bronze shaft bushings in the cam sensor body.
• We clean the coked-up oil off the cam sensor shaft prior to re-installing.
• We install a new wave-washer and shim-washer.
• We clean the soft packing material under the reluctor ring, oil it and re-install.
• We then install the shaft with a new roll pin so once we are done the internals are completely rebuilt with brand new parts.
• The cam sensor is oiled during assembly and checked for proper clearance before it gets returned.

Parts Replaced:

• Wave Washer
• Shim Washers
• 2- Bronze Bushings
• Roll Pin

To get your cam sensor rebuilt simply send the cam sensor to us with $80.00 enclosed and it will be rebuilt and sent back within 4-6 business days.

Please send it in via US Postal Service to this address:

GNS Performance
PO Box 216
Dandridge, TN 37725


GNS
Management

 

[turbodave231]

How do you handle the upper bushing if it is loose in the housing? Many of the sensors I have disassembled have the upper bushing loose. You using Oversize bushings?

 

[scot w.]

How do you handle the upper bushing if it is loose in the housing? Many of the sensors I have disassembled have the upper bushing loose. You using Oversize bushings?

Richard Clark is working with us and together we came up with a process that works fantastic in securing the bushings in the body if they happen to be loose. If you were to buy over sized bushings then you will be stuck having to bore out the inside of the body to match the OD of the over sized bushing which creates much more work. Our process is much easier than that with the same results...

.

 

[turbodave231]

Scott,

It about time somebody started rebuilding these units for the masses!! I've been doing my own for years now.
I have thought about boring the inside ID larger on my lathe, but the segemented support for the bushing makes that difficult. Measuring the bore after machining is almost impossible without a set of gauge pins!!

I have fixed a couple of units by knurling the OD of a new bushing to insure a good press fit (we do this to tighten the press fit on valve guides). If you don't mind, I'd like to hear how you handle this problem. Don't worry......I'm not gonna steal your ideas to go off and rebuild sensors cheaper and undercut your new business.

Just thinking out loud.......What we need is a clean sheet of paper redesign of the cam sensor body with proper thrust bearings, sealed needle bearings on the upper and open needle bearings on the lower in place of the bushings......probably overkill......but that's my M.O.

 

[scot w.]

Scott,

If you don't mind, I'd like to hear how you handle this problem. Don't worry......I'm not gonna steal your ideas to go off and rebuild sensors cheaper and undercut your new business .

I understand and thanks for the kind words..
Speaking for all of us involved we just don't wish to divulge some of the process, I hope you understand.

 

[Nick Micale]

Scott, thanks for providing this very useful service which with save an expensive, needed GN part.

 

[TurboDave]

Bravo Scot for getting this going!!!! Love the jig and everything you have setup!! This will be a big plus for our community!

 

[turboc87gn]

What happens with the tab that breaks off...how often does this happen? RJC has a fix for it maybe it can be incorporated into the sensors you are doing or is it not that big of a problem?

 

[coach]

What happens with the tab that breaks off...how often does this happen? RJC has a fix for it maybe it can be incorporated into the sensors you are doing or is it not that big of a problem?

I was going to ask the same thing, but my builder told me the tab deal is more of an issue on the big HP engines. Jasons parts are all engineered for 9-10 sec cars.

 

[scot w.]

What happens with the tab that breaks off...how often does this happen? RJC has a fix for it maybe it can be incorporated into the sensors you are doing or is it not that big of a problem?

We are working with Richard on that as well.... Right now this service is to "Rebuild" the cam sensor itself meaning the bronze bushings Etc because nobody out there is doing this or offering this. If you have a bad/broken cap one can be purchased through Casper's, if you have a broken tab on the interrupter ring a repair kit can be purchased through RJC racing which pretty much covers the whole cam sensor. Right now we are trying to work something out with John @ Casper's to offer his cap's and I am sure Jason wouldn't mind us selling his repair kits so I look for us to soon be offering these items to go along with our Rebuild service...

 

[scot w.]

I was going to ask the same thing, but my builder told me the tab deal is more of an issue on the big HP engines. Jasons parts are all engineered for 9-10 sec cars.

Very true! In our rebuild process we actually Balance the interrupter ring so at this point we are not sure what the added material a repair kit will do to the balance but we will find out later down the road... For now if you need the cam sensor itself rebuilt let us know..

 

[RmvBfrFlght]

Very true! In our rebuild process we actually Balance the interrupter ring so at this point we are not sure what the added material a repair kit will do to the balance but we will find out later down the road... For now if you need the cam sensor itself rebuilt let us know..

May be able to add a counter-weight to the RJC piece to aid in balancing the units. Although this would mean a change to the tooling used to make those pieces.

IMHO, the RJC fix should be part of the rebuild. Or at least an option. They are tricky to get right, so maybe a tool/fixture to do this would be helpful in your rebuild of the cam sensors.

RemoveBeforeFlight

 

[Grunk]

Can you describe the symptoms of a bad cam sensor that might need to be rebuilt? How long should a cam sensor last? How would one know if the Cap, interrupter ring or the actual cam sensor was the issue?

 

[scot w.]

Can you describe the symptoms of a bad cam sensor that might need to be rebuilt?

Here is just a brief description.... The cam sensor its self ends up with shaft play and sounds like a bad/loose lifter but really no other way to tell unless it is out of the car where you can check it. The bronze bushings & wave washer eventually wear out. One thing about cam sensors no one really thinks about is "Oil Contamination", by this I mean if you have bearings that went bad in a previous engine that bearing material has now been pushed all through the cam sensor speeding up the wear process!

How long should a cam sensor last?

That's a good question, I would say it varies to be honest with you and no one really knows for sure but the bronze bushings & wave washer are wear parts so eventually they will go bad. John Spina mentioned to replace it every 50,000 miles or so to be safe.

How would one know if the Cap, interrupter ring or the actual cam sensor was the issue?

The caps can "crack" allowing moisture in which is not good and can cause the car to act/ run funny, the caps can simply go bad or the interrupter ring can end up cutting into the cap due to excessive play all of which will make the car run like crap or not at all.

The interrupter ring has a tab that breaks off which has caused a loud "Pop" and then the car dies, runs like crap, small backfires and has been known to cause catastrophic engine damage!

The cam sensor it self wore out? They will make a sloppy lifter noise, can cut into the cap and ruin it, cause drive ability issues, and more.

Simple solution is to actually take it out and inspect it "Before" it does damage to your engine or starts causing issues! $75 is cheap insurance and Way cheaper than a new or even used one so why not be safe?

 

[GWHIZZER]

Here is just a brief description.... The cam sensor its self ends up with shaft play and sounds like a bad/loose lifter but really no other way to tell unless it is out of the car where you can check it. The bronze bushings & wave washer eventually wear out. One thing about cam sensors no one really thinks about is "Oil Contamination", by this I mean if you have bearings that went bad in a previous engine that bearing material has now been pushed all through the cam sensor speeding up the wear process!

That's a good question, I would say it varies to be honest with you and no one really knows for sure but the bronze bushings & wave washer are wear parts so eventually they will go bad. John Spina mentioned to replace it every 50,000 miles or so to be safe.



The caps can "crack" allowing moisture in which is not good and can cause the car to act/ run funny, the caps can simply go bad or the interrupter ring can end up cutting into the cap due to excessive play all of which will make the car run like crap or not at all.

The interrupter ring has a tab that breaks off which has caused a loud "Pop" and then the car dies, runs like crap, small backfires and has been known to cause catastrophic engine damage!

The cam sensor it self wore out? They will make a sloppy lifter noise, can cut into the cap and ruin it, cause drive ability issues, and more.

Simple solution is to actually take it out and inspect it "Before" it does damage to your engine or starts causing issues! $75 is cheap insurance and Way cheaper than a new or even used one so why not be safe?

Hey guys. -In my case, my Rosewood T with approximately 160,000 miles was making a clicking noise that sounded like a lifter pecking. So I did the old stethoscope trick with a piece of heater hose and found the noise was coming from the cam sensor. Subsequently Scot and I took it to Richard Clark's shop in May, and at Richard's direction, we learned how to rebuild cam sensors . - After reinstalling the rebuilt one, no noise, -and the car seemed to run better. It's probably a good idea to get it looked at long before I did.
Gwhizzer

 

[scot w.]

As Gary mentioned in the previous post above when the wave washers wear out they tend to get a bit "Ticky" to say the least, like mine was in my car up until today.... I knew it was wore out but just did not have the time to replace it so Gary came over today to push me along and give me a hand. We took a cam sensor that we previously rebuilt and swapped it out with the one that has been in my car since the day I bought it. After replacing it there was a "Night & Day" difference with absolutely No Noise at all and runs smooth as a clock!

If you will be in BG next week and wish to see a side by side comparison of a GNS freshly rebuilt cam sensor vs the wore out that just came out of my car 10/11/12, feel free to stop by our booth and we will be more than happy to show you the difference....

.

 

[Justin85]

Hey Scot, A quick question about cam sensors. My car has had a tapping at hot idle issue for a while. So I unbuttoned the oil pan and took a look and little pieces of what felt like plastic where in the pan. I cant seem to get over 4700 RPM out of my car. After reading up on cam sensors I'm still unsure if my cam sensor may be the heart of my problem. I didn't see any metal or shit in the oil. And all my push rods spun and the rocker arms had good movement. So to sum this up. Hot idle tap and limited rpms of 4700 RPM WOT. Could this be a cam sensor?

 

[TurboDave]

There aren't very many places for plastic to get into the oil pan, but there are a couple candidates, depending on what color the plastic pieces are. If they are solid black, it could be parts of the timing chain tensioner coming apart. If their color is any where from light tan to very dark tan, then it could be pieces of your cam timing gear teeth if the timing set is still original that is.

 

[scot w.]

What Dave said and plastic could also be those white Rocker arm guide plugs! Did you look to see if they were all there?

Also the RPM loss could very well be weak valve springs..