Cam Button (comp 269)

FASTV6HENRY

Member
Joined
Feb 16, 2012
OK GUYS…SO IM LOOKING AT THIS AND AM NOT SURE IF THE ROUND DONUT LOOKING PIECE OF THE CAM BUTTON NEEDS TO BE A PRESS FIT, INTERFERENCE FIT OR SHOULD IT JUST SIT IN THE FRONT OF THE CAM. MY FEAR IS THAT IT WILL EVENTUALLY FALL OUT. IN THE FIRST PICTURE I HAD TO TAP IT IN WITH A HAMMER. IS THIS THE CORRECT WAY. I JUST WANTED TO KNOW WHAT YOU GUYS DID. THIS MIGHT BE VERY SIMPLE QUESTION BUT ITS NORMALLY THE LITTLE THINGS THAT GET YOU…BOTH CAM AND BUTT ARE FROM COMP.
cam button 1.jpg

cam button 2.jpg

cam button 3.jpg
 
Throw it away, and use a factory style roller button with a spring for cam retention. :)

Also, please figure out how to type not using all caps. ;)
 
Throw it away, and use a factory style roller button with a spring for cam retention. :)

Also, please figure out how to type not using all caps. ;)[/quot

this cam is a hydraulic roller. would the stock style button like the one in this picture have to much pressure since it sticks out considerably..thanks Nick
cam button 4.jpg
 
sounds good....i was just worried that there was to much pressure pushing back on the came..but if it works for you im rolling with it..thanks again Nick
 
Nick has said before that he has used the spring loaded roller with no issues on dozens of cast roller cams, and I would trust his recommendation. I had a spring break on a spring loaded button, though. It may have been a freak thing or poor quality part from the old Poston Buick catalog. It caused no problems, but it may be possible for a roller lifter to grab a lobe it is not supposed to if the cam moves forward far enough. Maybe that is not possible, but I use the shim type button now. It takes longer to set up the end play than it does to use a spring loaded button, and you have to use a dial indicator to check end play, and put the cover on and off multiple times. You can use some bearing grease to hold it in while you put on the front cover, but I never had any problems with one falling out. If you don't want to go through all that, use the spring loaded roller button like Nick said and you will be fine and save a bunch of time.
 
so the button he is showing is the spring button. this is ok as long as its not a billet roller, if its a billet roller can this still be used? does the front cover only have to be modified w/ the biller roller?
 
I never modified my front cover and I have a billet hydraulic roller.

I just set the "end play" with shims/different thickness of front cover gasket.

This is the set-up I have for retaining the camshaft:

cam1.jpg
cam5.jpg
 
so the button he is showing is the spring button. this is ok as long as its not a billet roller, if its a billet roller can this still be used? does the front cover only have to be modified w/ the biller roller?

Billet roller is a different animal, and we would never use the roller button for retention.

There are a few different retention methods for billet cams, and one does require a mod to the front cover.
 
ok whats too much or not enough contact with the cover Im trying to help a local guy he has a 212-206 roller but I dont know if is a billet roller or not
 
I dont remember I have not put a motor together in about 8yrs but I know I had to modify my cover for my billet roller
 
I dont remember I have not put a motor together in about 8yrs but I know I had to modify my cover for my billet roller
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Anyone care to add to this - in terms of this modification to teh front cover, and is it "suggested" or is it "necessary".

TIA
 
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Anyone care to add to this - in terms of this modification to the front cover, and is it "suggested" or is it "necessary"...............TIA

With your set up shown, you need to have a little clearance between the cover and the roller button.

Measure the distance from the block cover surface to the end of the button, then the timing cover from the mounting surface where the button meets the cover. With this info, machine a flat on the cover if needed, and shim for little cam end play.

I have seen covers cracked if little or no clearance is provided. :eek:

Also, be very sure your cam and crank sprockets line up so the chain is NOT in a bind, or has any fore and aft mis-alignment.
 
With your set up shown, you need to have a little clearance between the cover and the roller button.

I am pretty certain I measured like near 0.006" ---> 0.010" when I installed this camshaft assembly for camshaft "end-play".

Coupled with washers on the "nose button" - I managed to use a GM Front Cover gasket set to achieve this clearance, as the Fel-Pro "Blue" gasket was way too thick.

With this info, machine a flat on the cover if needed, and shim for little cam end play."

I thought maybe there needed to be a steel piece epoxied to the inside of the front cover or something. I think I saw something like this done to a Buick engine shown in the Buick Powersource book - maybe? I did not have to do any machining to the GM front cover at all, simply was told to set my "end-play" accordingly.

I have seen covers cracked if little or no clearance is provided. .

Don't really want to talk about what happened when I was advised to use that "rear-holding" device on my 1st 214/210 Billett Hydraulic Roller

Let the pics tell the story:

This was many-many years ago - probably near 10 years ago, which ultimately lead to me fixing my stuff and kinda "shelving" my Buick for other "aspirations" like 300 HP Jet-Skis :)

Also, be very sure your cam and crank sprockets line up so the chain is NOT in a bind, or has any fore and aft mis-alignment.

Please explain?

Many Thanks!!!
 

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Also, be very sure your cam and crank sprockets line up so the chain is NOT in a bind, or has any fore and aft mis-alignment.

I understand now - as I re-read what you wrote. Not the timing mark alignments - but the alignment with relation to the sprockets/chain being parrallel to the block "equi-distant" for the upper sprocket and lower sprocket. Understood !!!
 
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