Bypassing the VATS......
- Thread starter Hi-psi
- Start date
B
Benzmac
Guest
There are two ways.
1) measure the resistance of the key and solder in a resistor on the wires going to the chip inside of the steering column.
2) simply get a e-prom burner, tunercat software, and chips. Click delet on the vats screen and delete it. Replace chip.
Now, the computer doesn't know you have vats.
1) measure the resistance of the key and solder in a resistor on the wires going to the chip inside of the steering column.
2) simply get a e-prom burner, tunercat software, and chips. Click delet on the vats screen and delete it. Replace chip.
Now, the computer doesn't know you have vats.
An even easier way. Pull ff the drivers side kick panel. There should be a piece of black seal on the metal. Carefully peal that back and inside the cavity will be the VATS relay. There are 2 heavy gauge wires and 2 small gauge wires. Simply jumper the 2 heavy wires and you have bypassed it. It's a quick way to tell if the VATS is truly the problem.
I believe all the VATS does is interupt the starter. I know when mine broke about 9 years ago the car would not crank. Jumped the wires and it has worked since. I found out later the reason why it broke is there are 2 small wires in the ignition cylinder that read the resistance off the chip. One of the wires broke off. Took the lock cylinder out and I was able to see the broken wire. Probably should have taken it somewhere to get it fixed but I was too lazy.... To get rid of the annoying security light there is a 10 amp fuse on a sub panel located to the right of the steering column. One of the chime buzzers is also on this panel.
Could this be my problem also
My car will start after a jump for about 5 shutt offs. Then i will try to start the car and i get nothing, like it has a dead battery. The voltage befor i start the car reads 12-12.2 on the scanmaster.
I turn the key and nothing, but the radio, and lites work fine. But once i get the jump it starts. I have just put new alternator, battery, starter soliniod, and checked the fuseable links.
Any suggestions please.
THANKS Joe Miller
My car will start after a jump for about 5 shutt offs. Then i will try to start the car and i get nothing, like it has a dead battery. The voltage befor i start the car reads 12-12.2 on the scanmaster.
I turn the key and nothing, but the radio, and lites work fine. But once i get the jump it starts. I have just put new alternator, battery, starter soliniod, and checked the fuseable links.
Any suggestions please.
THANKS Joe Miller
Re: Could this be my problem also
My car did this exact same thing about 2yrs ago, then just stopped one day. Started doing it again about 2 months ago. Did it for about 2 weeks, then mysteriously stopped again.
Dunno. However, my buddies car we know is a problem with the VATS.
My car did this exact same thing about 2yrs ago, then just stopped one day. Started doing it again about 2 months ago. Did it for about 2 weeks, then mysteriously stopped again.
Dunno. However, my buddies car we know is a problem with the VATS.You guys need to add an extra wire to the starter. Been there done that. After getting stranded numerous times. Once in the middle of the tollway toll lanes on a summer Sunday evening. Cars everywhere and us in the middle of probably 20 lanes. Had the GF steer the car while I pushed. Must have had to cross 10 lanes to get to the side of the road. Pure hell. That was the final straw. Anyway, there is a purple wire that goes from the vats relay to the starter solenoid. The wire is a 12g wire. Marginal at best. When the solenoid gets hot it binds and it takes more current to operate. I added a 10g wire to that existing wire and the car has NEVER had this problem since. I did this in 92' or 93'. Just route the wire right next to the purple wire. This will 100% solve this problem. I still have the factory starter and solenoid.
Jan Larsson
Active Member
- Joined
- Nov 22, 2001
I'm trying to get my VATS to work again.
One of the cables to the ignition system is broke so I will get a new ignition lock.
My starter relay is bypassed (grounded) so I can start the car.
The VATS fuse is there and working, the security bulb is working. But my problems is that the security bulb test is not working and also the security light is not on which I would expect when the VATS system is not working.
Also as the VATS system is not working I woulnd't expect the car to start as the ECM is not getting the right signal to pulse the injectors. Tried with the stock chip as well and the car still starts.
I will buy a resistor tomorrow and connect that on to see if the car starts proparly when I remove the bypass (ground) to the starter relay.
Any ideas what might be wrong ? Also how to I get to the Passkey electronic box ? Just remove the dash pad or ??
/Jan
One of the cables to the ignition system is broke so I will get a new ignition lock.
My starter relay is bypassed (grounded) so I can start the car.
The VATS fuse is there and working, the security bulb is working. But my problems is that the security bulb test is not working and also the security light is not on which I would expect when the VATS system is not working.
Also as the VATS system is not working I woulnd't expect the car to start as the ECM is not getting the right signal to pulse the injectors. Tried with the stock chip as well and the car still starts.
I will buy a resistor tomorrow and connect that on to see if the car starts proparly when I remove the bypass (ground) to the starter relay.
Any ideas what might be wrong ? Also how to I get to the Passkey electronic box ? Just remove the dash pad or ??
/Jan
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