Burning Oil

[eman035]

I have an 85' T-type that I just got back from having the engine rebuilt. The engine and turbo were rebuilt about 1 1/2 years ago, and the original guy that was doing the work let it sit for about a year. I took the car back and brought it to someone else to finish it up and I just got it back last night. The car was running fine around town when i picked it up, then I got on the interstate and I was burning oil like I was mosquito control. The transmission then started shifting way too early. I put it in drive and it went through all the shifts before 30 mph. Back to the oil problem, the only time it would burn oil is when I tried to accelerate harder (1/2 throttle). And it was really bad if i let the rpm's come up and the turbo spool up, which makes me believe its a blown seal in the turbo. Does this sound like the problem (because it sat for a year) and could there be more damage to the turbo now? The engine and turbo were re-oiled before start up but could it be too late? Also, could this have any effect on the transmission shifting so soon? Or does it just need to be adjusted? Any information with this would be greatly appreciated.

p.s. Does anyone know of anyone in Florida that really knows what they're doing with these cars that I can get to get this car running the way it should? Thanks again for any information.

 

[racemybuick]

I think Red Regal T is down by you somewhere, who is a turbobuick parts guru of sorts. He may be able to help, and that is his name on this board. As for the oil/mosquito control, I went throught the exact same thing. My car blew that smoke out like a 4 alarm fire. It was definately the turbo. Whomever he had rebuild the turbo may not have installed the seals correctly, or they may not have even rebuilt it...only way to tell really, is to have the turbo off the motor and looked at up close. If you pull the TB off and reach in and shake the shaft, there should be no movement what so ever. If there is any movement, then your turbo is definately in need of replacement or reuild.
As for the tranny, your shifting early most likely because of the cable adjustment. The kickdown cable might need a little tweaking. Also, if there is not new fluid in there, drive it for a couple hundred miles and see if it improves...If not, replace the fluid and filter and all that. Check the pan and make sure there is no grey or black dust in the fluid. Good luck!

John

 

[eman035]

Thanks, I will try to contact Red Regal T on here. I'll let you know any updates. Thanks again.

Eric

 

[Red Regal T]

Guru I'm not. Are you sure it is engine oil and not fluid from your transmission causing the smoke? Check your fluids and drive it some more to get more information on the problem.

 

[eman035]

I drove the car yesterday when I got home and I don't get it. When its cold it runs great, idles fine, and pulls hard all the way to full throttle. And suprisingly I wasn't burning anything. (it was oil I was burning, checked it after driving it home from the shop(about 100 miles) and was low 1 1/2 quarts, tranny fluid was fine). When the car warmed up (after driving about 3 miles) it ran like @#$%! Would not idle, spittin' and sputterin, and backfired a few times. Once the rpm's came up though it ran fine again. I don't have a tach but i'd say about 1500-2000 rpm's and it was runnin smooth again even at WOT, with no smoke at all. The engine and turbo are rebuilt and the first time I drove it was on the way home from the shop. Could the smoke be just because its a new engine and everything needs to seat? I could see maybe a little burning but not as much as it did. Any more ideas on whats going on? Why won't it idle when it warms up? Would a scan tool help me out in figuring out why it won't idle, as I need to get this problem fixed first so I can drive it more than a couple miles? And if so, what and where is the best place to get one? Thanks for the input and anymore that is comming, I really appreciate it.

Eric

 

[racemybuick]

If you are burnign that much oil, in only 100 miles of driving, then as soon as you car shuts down, your spark plugs start drying up...in the gap of your spark plugs, there will be a ton of carbon residue from the burnt oil...I bet anything, your plugs are fouled or just caked up with the oil residue, and that is why it wont idle. If you pull just one plug and look, try to confirm my suspicion. If that is the case, do a compression test. Check each and every single cylinder for compression...They should all be withing 10% or eachother...If one is real low or a few are low, then your motor is most likely in need of rings...
From what I hear, rings can go bad just days after a rebuild if there are certain problems present...I am trying to remember what those problems are, but my memory isnt quite serving me well at the moment. Like I said, do the compression test. Check every cylinder and see if there is any large difference in psi at any of the cylinders. Write the numbers down if you want and report back to us. One of us should know what is normal and all that.

If you do not have a compression tester, any parts store should have one, or a sears should also. I have a craftsman, compliments of sears. If you need anything else, feel free to post or contact me individually! (racemybuick@aol.com)

John

 

[eman035]

Thanks racemybuick for the info. I will do that tonight when I get home. I do have a compression tester and i'll get some numbers. I'm going out of town tommorow for the rest of the week so I will get back with you next week sometime. Thanks again.

Eric