Bringing the GN back to life

DOshow

New Member
Hi everyone!
Just pulled the GN out of storage after 23 years, I'm the original owner, left it 100% stock and put 91k miles on it. After a little work it's running but as you can imagine I'm having some fun;
- I need the hard plastic vacuum line between the turbo-boost sensor and the intake. I believe one end has 1/4", the other is 3/8" rubber slip-on fittings.
- My digital cluster worked but now I've lost the MPH display. I also should mention that some displays didn't work but came to work after a driving around a bit e.g. RT & LT signals, Turbo boost lights, Fasten seat belts. Not sure what else I'm still missing...meaning I don't know how many are still not lighting up.
- At first no alternator charging so I purchased the Casper's exciter fix.
- On occasion after driving it for a while it acts as if someone turned the key off & on a few times....shortly after I get a Check Engine light. Then all is fine. I've driven it for 188 miles on the trip since I pulled it out of storage.
- I need to know about the fuel injectors, I read they don't last over 50K miles...true? I ask since I have a little bit of a rough idle, but it runs strong when I step on it.
 

mikestertwo

Well-Known Member
Was it stored in a temperature controlled environment or outside in the weather? Injectors may be a little sticky after sitting that long. Put some miles on it. It may clear up. My son had a car that sat for a long time with the same idle issues. Cleared up after a while. I assume you changed all fluids and filters.
 

DOshow

New Member
Was it stored in a temperature controlled environment or outside in the weather? Injectors may be a little sticky after sitting that long. Put some miles on it. It may clear up. My son had a car that sat for a long time with the same idle issues. Cleared up after a while. I assume you changed all fluids and filters.
It was stored outside covered in Phoenix Az. Replaced the fuel tank, pump and sending unit, flushed the fuel lines. First tank has Chevron Techron fuel injector cleaner. Replaced all the fluids i.e. differential, transmission, engine. Replaced the radiator and started using RMI coolant. Brake lines flushing and pads are next.
 

John Larkin

Sublime Master of Turbology
The rubber ended hard plastic line: you will probably have to get creative with a few pieces of vacuum hose and some small zip ties. I have never seen it reproduced but there may be alternatives in later model cars. Could be an excuse for a junkyard run.

Since you are familiar with Casper's, they also repair digital dashes. It is on their website. Not cheap - $305 but it will also show speed above 85 mph after the repair - not a bad upgrade.

Your cutting off issue is probably the OEM Mass Air Flow sensor (MAF). If you are going to drive the car and have confidence in it, you should consider upgrading to a MAF translator and a LT1 MAF minimum. Most vendors sell this. Don't know if you are actually in Phoenix but you have a well known vendor right in your town - arizonagn.com. And some upgraded injectors and a modern ECM chip is a must do for drivability also. Again, via TurboBuick vendors.
 

DOshow

New Member
Can I get a diagram for the vacuum T-line between the boost-control solenoid, turbo body and the wastegate. I read that the orifice is different on one branch of the "T" fitting and must be placed correctly. I discovered the line not connected, replaced the lines and didn't think this was critical until reading later that I might of replaced it in the wrong orientation. Pic of line attached.

BTW I discovered NAPA has vacuum hard-lines with tips for the vacuum/boost line between the intake-fitting and the boost-sensor for digital dashes. Their appearance is as near as OEM you can get.
 

Attachments

John Larkin

Sublime Master of Turbology
The straight leg goes to the turbo outlet. The angled leg goes to the actuator. "Straight to the turbo".
 

DOshow

New Member
MPH digital display worked, quit, worked, quit. Both right/left indicator columns have non-functioning lights; Volt, Temp, Oil, Brake. Working lights; Check Engine, RT/LT Signal, Fasten Seat belt, Cruise. Extracted the digital display from the cluster, cleaned the rear contacts, checked the bulbs, all worked so I put them back. I think the issue is the cluster connector at the rear of the housing. Fearful of messing with it due to how crispy the plastic is. Anyone know of anyone in Arizona that works on these displays?
 
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