BOV users?

87gnblackdemon

Don't Be Redikulas!!
Joined
May 24, 2001
Does a BOV need to be re-routed to go back into the intake?? I read that dumping the air into the atmosphere is not good for our cars;
"putting a blow off valve on one of these cars is more complicated than just welding it into the up pipe or the intercooler and putting a vacuum line on it. since these cars measure engine load via a mass air flow sensor--you will be running way too rich when you let off the throttle. this is because if you vent all the air in your pipe out into the atmosphere thru a blow off valve, your computer thinks all that air is still in the manifold--making it run really rich."
 
Blowing off to atmosphere is not a problem with the Turbo buicks. The ecm goes into DFCO mod when you lift and shuts off the fuel. I have a HKS Super Sequential and is the only one I would recommend. It is designed to take high boost and opens diferently than others. I mouted mine on the bottom of the PTE FM up pipe. I did that since i was planning on running the alkycontrol kit. There are a lot on naysayers about BOVs but I am positive that on a street car it helps the thrust bearing last on the turbo. 30 psi of boost and lifting can not be good for the turbo.
Some people say to lift slow and easy but I don't see how you can do this. I have tried but I have a hard time just keeping the car between the lines and slowing it back down after mashing the gas.
The HKS SSQV has a very unique sound. It gets peoples attention. If I bolw of next to someone wlking on the sidewalk the jump in fear.

My brother inlaw is an avid FORD mustang/lightning guy and I let him drive my T-Type. He was giggling like a little high school girl everytime he lifted and blew off. He ran back home and told all his Ford buddies. When I went out to visit him they were all asking me if I was the one that owned the bad ass T-Type. I thought I had converted him over but he still has the mudstang and lightning.
 
UPDATE: Installed BOV on up-pipe and car runs like crap. I did add and subtract washers but no help. BLM's dropped into the 90's when coming to a stop and leaving from a stop, car feels like it wants to shut off. Disconnected BOV and plugged everything and car runs fine.

My BOV: Turbo XS Racing Bypass Valve H34, is this different than a BOV?

Second one on the page: http://www.3sxperformance.com/bovs.asp

*To those who are gonna jump on this to prove their point that BOV's aren't needed: Only reason I bought it was to get rid of the "did you just run over a cat?, turbo flutter", not for performance reasons. So go away!! :D
 
I run an ATR one and it is fine. I like it alot. I have mine connected to the compressor side of the turbo. no problems here, at all.
 
I run an ATR one and it is fine. I like it alot. I have mine connected to the compressor side of the turbo. no problems here, at all.



And the ATR is a BOV, not a racing bypass valve, correct? I think thats my problem. I'll see what more people have to say, but most likely I'll end up selling mine and looking at different ones such as the ATR.
 
Most likely the problem, I love it, you wont regret. people just look at you like :confused: :confused: :eek:
 
Why is it some of us run into the "rich condition" problem with a BOV, and others don't?

I've seen a ton of threads of guys running the HKS and ATR BOV which vent to the atmosphere with no problems.
 
DFCO doesnt always work right. If you have a higher stall converter, it wont work until you reach higher speeds. Mine only cuts fuel off when i let off the throttle, if I'm going above 60mph. Plus, DFCO is a fuel cutoff, not an air cutoff. That huge mass of air still slams into the throttle body when you lift, whether its running DFCO or not. A properly made bypass system is the way to go.
 
Well I think I found the problem and it was my fault all along, something so easy, like usual,that I wasn't looking at. I pulled the car into the garage and shut it down, before I could turn off my new electric fuel pressure gauge I could see that it was climbing and climbing, finally settling at 48.5. What the? So I sat there for a few minutes thinking and then it dawned on me. When I installed the new electric fuel pressure gauge I did all the adjustments with the "line on". I pulled the car out and pulled the line off and fuel pressure jumped to 51.8, wooo. So I put the translator back to 0 on the base setting for no change for the 3.5 MAF, lowered my fuel pressure line off to 42.5, line on about 34.5, and everything seems much better. BLM's at idle are higher in the 130's, and the lowest I got while driving with the BOV hooked up was 119.

A few questions about the BOV. Should it be open at idle? Mine was, I had to add all 6 springs to keep it shut during idle, which puts a lot of pressure on it so you really have to get on it and then let off to get it to open.

I'm still getting rid of this BOV and going to try the HKS everyone else seems to have good thingsto say about now that I believe I have the problem fixed.
 
i have a turboxs and if i switch between running a blowoff and not the car runs crap, unplugging the computer fixes the problem
 
i have a turboxs and if i switch between running a blowoff and not the car runs crap, unplugging the computer fixes the problem

Same BOV here, the TurboXS H34.
Does yours stay open at idle? How many washers did you have to use?
 
no washers and a little bit it hink, mine is routed back into the maf pipe after the maf, i have it welded onto my intercooler up pipe, and then connected to the maf pipe
 
for my 87 motor with a pt52 at 25 lbs, and a precision front mount. when i let off the gas i get the 3 stooges woop woop woop from the factory wastegate back through the turbo. it is really loud. also the car falls on its face and stumbles until the woop woop woop is done and the car regaines idle. so i put a subaru sti bov on and it still does this but not hesitating. it also flow the air back before the maf. the bov works fine but still the noise. what givs :confused:.

the factory wastegate is hooked up the same from the factory. and the sti unit has its own vacuum line to it, so when it sees vacuum it opens.

al i want to do is get rid of the stooges :mad: :mad: :mad:
 
no washers and a little bit it hink, mine is routed back into the maf pipe after the maf, i have it welded onto my intercooler up pipe, and then connected to the maf pipe

I am assuming your using the same turboxs bov I am cause mine has the exhaust port as welll and it said in the instructions that it needed to be re-routed into the system, but some applications can vent to the atmosphere. I am venting to the atmosphere, but I am curious how it would work being re-routed. So how did you go about re-routing it. What did you use? I'm guessing you would drill a hole in the MAF pipe, but then how do you go from a small hole to the big exhaust port on the BOV? Just continously downsizing in hose size?
 
what i did is cut the 1 inch nipple off of the bov and weld a 5/8 nipple onto it. then drilled a 5/8 hole in the intake pipe before the maf and welded that on. then used a 5/8 heater hose and muscled it on to both ends. routed a seprate vacuum line to the bov and keped the factory wastegate working like it should. after all that there is no stumbling when i snap the throttle closed. and this saves the turbo from blowing up.
 
mybuick said:
what i did is cut the 1 inch nipple off of the bov and weld a 5/8 nipple onto it. then drilled a 5/8 hole in the intake pipe before the maf and welded that on. then used a 5/8 heater hose and muscled it on to both ends. routed a seprate vacuum line to the bov and keped the factory wastegate working like it should. after all that there is no stumbling when i snap the throttle closed. and this saves the turbo from blowing up.

LOOKING AT ADDING A BLOWOFF VALVE AS I HAVE BAD COMP SURGE.

HAVE ANY PICS OF YOUR SET-UP?
 
So you mount the valve on the up pipe from the intercooler(going to tb) then reroute the vent to the inlet pipe after the maf before the turbo?

does this valve work to control surge? i get alot with my pt61.

thanks,alot
 
Top