Boost help, not sure whats going on

boomcase

Member
Joined
Dec 17, 2004
Hey Guys, My car has something happening with boost and I'm not sure where to look or what to do. Here goes, The car has been fluctuating with boost PSI , after the car is warmed up my the car gets around 15PSI I drive it alittle and boost drops to around 12PSI and its noticable powerwise. I dont know whats going on, everything looks good and runs okay just a drop boost. Would a bad actuator be the cause? Someone point me in somekind of direction even if its north:). Still learning as I go with the car but Dam sometimes I feel really stupid when it comes to this car....

Thanks
 
Do you have a scanmaster? If so what are the numbers at idle , and were there any knock?

Yes I have scanmaster and also a wideband. What #s are you referring to? The car is running a tt street chip, Wide band reading 11.0-10.8 at WOT no knock retard. I had to add 5% more fuel to eliminate knock.
 
could be a tiny exhaust leak. it did it to me at the driver header and later at the crossover joint. could also be a vaccum leak.
 
also, if you are using an rjc valve to control boost, it could have a tiny piece of trash in it that is keeping the ball from seating.
 
could be a tiny exhaust leak. it did it to me at the driver header and later at the crossover joint. could also be a vaccum leak.

I checked for vacuum leaks a week ago did not find any, I will check again, as far as exhaust leak I do not hear anything but I will look anyway.

Thanks
 
What are you using for your boost readings, factory boost gauge or aftermarket gauge?
 
If all of your #s look good then check your actuator, and make sure your turbo puck is closing.

What is the procedure to check the actuator and what and where is the turbo puck, sorry if i sound ignorant I just dont know.

Thanks
 
It has an aftermarket adjustable actuator .

The actuator is different than the boost controller. With an adjustable actuator, you can manually limit the travel of the puck for more boost by turning in the threads on the actuator rod.

The boost controller acts like a bleeder. It's an electrical solenoid and sensor located on a stud on the right side valve cover. It bleeds boost away from the actuator.

There's a vac line that comes off the compressor wheel and one that comes off the actuator. They both channel into "T" (it's important that you have the right vacuum T and that it's installed properly). Out of the "T" is one line that goes to the boost controller. The boost controller has the job of regualting the "ramp" of the boost but if not functioning properly might cause too much boost or not enough boost. Am I right?
 
The actuator is different than the boost controller. With an adjustable actuator, you can manually limit the travel of the puck for more boost by turning in the threads on the actuator rod.

The boost controller acts like a bleeder. It's an electrical solenoid and sensor located on a stud on the right side valve cover. It bleeds boost away from the actuator.

There's a vac line that comes off the compressor wheel and one that comes off the actuator. They both channel into "T" (it's important that you have the right vacuum T and that it's installed properly). Out of the "T" is one line that goes to the boost controller. The boost controller has the job of regualting the "ramp" of the boost but if not functioning properly might cause too much boost or not enough boost. Am I right?

Got it, I had no idea what that was, makes sense now after looking at it and where it connects, I replaced all the lines there maybe I'll get lucky, but I think it may boil down to a cracked header the more and more I read.

Thanks
 
most of the time a small crack you will only hear when you first crank.. once its warm, there will be no ticking or anything..
 
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