what is the best way to bleed system on my gn? just installed a spool from moser and axles, and c-clips, worst job i have i have done on a race car in years. when ordering moser said nothing about the extra drilling for c-clip holes on houseing, just beating in back plate( lololol ) i wish it was that easy. anyway back to bleeding they seem ok, but would like to double check after driving awhile.
bleeding brakes
- Thread starter van460
- Start date
- Joined
- May 26, 2001
You bleed the sytem like any other "normal" car!
Nick Micale
I've read many threads about trouble with bleeding TR brake systems & personally havn't had to do it myself. I've changed my master cylinder 4 times & installed 12" brakes with no bleeding issues.
My question is if you have trouble bleeding the system, would you recommend having the dealer doit with their pressure system?? Pricy, I know, however I don't like to PLAY with my brakes.
I've read many threads about trouble with bleeding TR brake systems & personally havn't had to do it myself. I've changed my master cylinder 4 times & installed 12" brakes with no bleeding issues.
My question is if you have trouble bleeding the system, would you recommend having the dealer doit with their pressure system?? Pricy, I know, however I don't like to PLAY with my brakes.
I just put the car up on stands, crack open a bleeder, attach a piece of clear vinyl tubing to the bleeder and let it gravity bleed into a bottle. Watch the fluid throuh the clear tubing and wait for it to not have any bubbles and for the dark old fluid to become clear from the fresh fluid you installed into the PM resevoir. Just make sure you don not run out of brake fluid while doing this. I always can get a good pedal by letting gravity bleed for about 20 ~30 minutes per wheel.
- Joined
- May 26, 2001
In all the years I have done brakes including T-R's, never used a power bleeder. The most common problem in bleeding brakes is air in the master cylinder, either by not properly bleeding a new one, or letting it run dry and sucking in air.
An old post from the GNTType list:
From: richards@interactive.net (TR)
Subject: re: Speed Bleeders
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 13:06:43 GMT
Jerry,
Just recently installed both front & rear Russell speed bleeders and
they're awesome! Had the entire system bled in about 15 minutes and
didn't need an assistant!
The bleeders have a spring and ball check valve to prevent air from
getting back into the system and a Loctite type coating on the
threads. One note of caution, the coating on the threads isn't as
permanent as they claim. It's O.K. if you just screw the bleeder in,
back it out 1/4 turn, bleed the line and retighten, but if you have to
take the bleeder all the way out for any reason (i.e. you replace a
wheel cylinder like I did!) the coating will disintegrate. If this
happens, simple recoat the threads with a REMOVABLE threadlocker from
Loctite or Permatex and let it dry a bit before you replace the
bleeder.
Part numbers are 3952 for the rear and 3958 for the front. They come
2 per package from Summit Racing at a cost of $12.39 per package.
Hope this helps!
*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*
They work as advertised. One man job. Over and out.
Buzz White in Houston, TX
(sumnerw@flash.net)
From: richards@interactive.net (TR)
Subject: re: Speed Bleeders
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 13:06:43 GMT
Jerry,
Just recently installed both front & rear Russell speed bleeders and
they're awesome! Had the entire system bled in about 15 minutes and
didn't need an assistant!
The bleeders have a spring and ball check valve to prevent air from
getting back into the system and a Loctite type coating on the
threads. One note of caution, the coating on the threads isn't as
permanent as they claim. It's O.K. if you just screw the bleeder in,
back it out 1/4 turn, bleed the line and retighten, but if you have to
take the bleeder all the way out for any reason (i.e. you replace a
wheel cylinder like I did!) the coating will disintegrate. If this
happens, simple recoat the threads with a REMOVABLE threadlocker from
Loctite or Permatex and let it dry a bit before you replace the
bleeder.
Part numbers are 3952 for the rear and 3958 for the front. They come
2 per package from Summit Racing at a cost of $12.39 per package.
Hope this helps!
*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*
They work as advertised. One man job. Over and out.
Buzz White in Houston, TX
(sumnerw@flash.net)
thanks
thanks for info guys i believe the brakes are coming around, i did a search on the mitchel on demand and it gave two ways to bleed, you do not pump brake, just press down once, and start and rear front rear front, weird but the brakes seem to work know. thanks for all the help( the moser job still suched lolol.)
thanks for info guys i believe the brakes are coming around, i did a search on the mitchel on demand and it gave two ways to bleed, you do not pump brake, just press down once, and start and rear front rear front, weird but the brakes seem to work know. thanks for all the help( the moser job still suched lolol.)
