Best Spring Compressor

hemi8

Goin Sideways
Joined
Jun 6, 2001
What is the best spring compressor for installing the front springs? I have a good one for installing on the outside of strut springs but I need an internal one for the GN and want to avoid getting a cheap China POS.
Mike
 
The best one is a long screw/bolt with a claw looking thing and a bottom plate that looks like an oversized pickle fork. Run the "claw" up into the spring and put the pickle fork under the bottom of the arm. Tighten the srew up until the spring is clamped onto the bottom arm and then you can remove it easily. Install in reverse.;)
 
wa92 from snap on .This is the one I have. well dr boost has it right now. This one works awesome. I know I paid 140 bucks for it. looks like snap on raised their prices.
 
We use a Snap-On spring compressor but most of the time we jack the car up as high as it will go on jack stands then just disconnect the spindle by having a hydraulic jack under the lower A-arm and once the spindle is removed we lower the a-arm with the jack as low as it will go and then stand to the side and use a long crow bar and pop it out. We usually install the springs back this way too as it's easier to to with the 2" drop springs we use...

Spring compressors can be Very dangerous if they come loose! The way we do it seems to take a lot of the danger out of it because the spring isn't compressed much after lowering it as far as it will go before popping it out the rest of the way.
 
I've also used a jack only because I rented (3) different spring compressors from AZ, Advanced Auto, etc. and none of them would work. I would do it again if needed but it is still a PITA. The strap on tool sounds like the way to go to me.
 
I've also used a jack only because I rented (3) different spring compressors from AZ, Advanced Auto, etc. and none of them would work. I would do it again if needed but it is still a PITA. The strap on tool sounds like the way to go to me.

personally id go with the "snap-on" , but i dont judge ..whatever works for you :)
 
We use a Snap-On spring compressor but most of the time we jack the car up as high as it will go on jack stands then just disconnect the spindle by having a hydraulic jack under the lower A-arm and once the spindle is removed we lower the a-arm with the jack as low as it will go and then stand to the side and use a long crow bar and pop it out. We usually install the springs back this way too as it's easier to to with the 2" drop springs we use...

Spring compressors can be Very dangerous if they come loose! The way we do it seems to take a lot of the danger out of it because the spring isn't compressed much after lowering it as far as it will go before popping it out the rest of the way.

this is the best method for anything besides ultra tall drag springs with a lot of stored energy.. it's really less dangerous than it sounds, and chopped high rate springs practically fall right out... but it really only works if you have a complete car with the engine installed- if not, then a chain running up from the front axle of the floor jack to the frame rail helps out..
 
Leave the lower ball joint fastened, and unfasten the sway bar and shock, and support the lower A-arm with a floor jack and remove the two lower A-arm frame bolts. Lower the jack, making sure not to catch the shock, and the spring will fall out. Reverse the procedure to re-install the spring. No spring compressor needed.
 
Leave the lower ball joint fastened, and unfasten the sway bar and shock, and support the lower A-arm with a floor jack and remove the two lower A-arm frame bolts. Lower the jack, making sure not to catch the shock, and the spring will fall out. Reverse the procedure to re-install the spring. No spring compressor needed.
Will this work for stock length springs too? I know it works getting them out, but how do you get the bottom of the spring to seat in the LCA so that you can compress it with the jack? I'm only asking because I have to do this next week.
 
Will this work for stock length springs too? I know it works getting them out, but how do you get the bottom of the spring to seat in the LCA so that you can compress it with the jack? I'm only asking because I have to do this next week.
Back in the day GM actually had an attachment for jacks that cupped the lower arm bushings and you lowered the arm from the middle rather than the ball joint side.;)
 
Back in the day GM actually had an attachment for jacks that cupped the lower arm bushings and you lowered the arm from the middle rather than the ball joint side.;)

I remember that tool with the chain around the swaybar or frame. You get alot more movement if you do it this way
 
Will this work for stock length springs too? I know it works getting them out, but how do you get the bottom of the spring to seat in the LCA so that you can compress it with the jack? I'm only asking because I have to do this next week.

Yes, it will. You just insert the spring up into the frame and set the bottom of the spring onto the lower control arm with the pigtail positioned where you want and jack the assembly up into place. Don't forget, the A-arm is still connected at the ball joint. The problem comes in lining the bolt holes back up to insert the frame/A-arm bolts because the bushed ends of the control arm tends to go where it wants, most likely too far into the frame. I've always done it this way by myself, but with a helper to guide the control arms to the right position with a pry bar while the other operates the jack would make it a snap.
 
I got the olde tyme powermaster diagnostic tool on Ebay so if you know the part number of the tool you may find one there.

It's amazing what shows up for literature and tools from old time closed GM dealerships.
 
The problem comes in lining the bolt holes back up to insert the frame/A-arm bolts because the bushed ends of the control arm tends to go where it wants, most likely too far into the frame. I've always done it this way by myself, but with a helper to guide the control arms to the right position with a pry bar while the other operates the jack would make it a snap.

As mentioned, this is possible but it can be a real PITA to get the holes lined up. I've done it 3 times and it's a job that I do not look forward to anytime soon. In my opinion, a quality spring compressor is a safer and easier way to go if used properly.
 
If you can find a quality spring compressor, it probably is costly. The danger is in using any spring compressor but I don't see any danger in doing it this way. As I said, with a helper this job can be done in minutes. By yourself, it's a bit more challenging, but not dangerous.
 
If you can find a quality spring compressor, it probably is costly. The danger is in using any spring compressor but I don't see any danger in doing it this way. As I said, with a helper this job can be done in minutes. By yourself, it's a bit more challenging, but not dangerous.
I'm gonna rent one from Advance. They said their 'loaner' tools are pretty heavy duty in comparison with what they have on the shelf. I hope they're right, because the $34 internal spring compressor they had on the shelf did NOT inspire a lot of confidence.:eek:
 
I'm gonna rent one from Advance. They said their 'loaner' tools are pretty heavy duty in comparison with what they have on the shelf. I hope they're right, because the $34 internal spring compressor they had on the shelf did NOT inspire a lot of confidence.:eek:

Just keep the jack under control arm and as you tighten the compressor bring the jack up with it. That way there is no surprises. I put a spring into the side of Moms Mustang on my first spring job on my 70 Gs. Be careful
 
Top