Bellhousing/Flywheel options for T56?

[Hotrodbuick]

I just saw your build and lots of others talking about why not to put a manual behind the Buick v6. Interesting topics on here to say the least. I have a t56 laying around and my 200 is shot and I'm not putting it back in. Just thinking of options, either manual or 4l80e


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[10secvega]

http://www.popularhotrodding.com/ed...mission_swap_buick_t_type/#.UjjD0fJIVXQ.email
I just found this article.

 

[Turbo-Archie]

HOTROD did the swap on an '85 Gn back in the 80's and listed all the parts back then.

..

 

[dr_frankenstein]

still doesnt solve the flywheel problem for non T56 users

custom is looking to be the only option for high HP use.

 

[Scott Atk]

FYI my flywheel is aluminum. I didn't want aluminum but the RAM guy assured me that with the added weight of the dual disk clutch the weight difference is negligible.

 

[dr_frankenstein]

View attachment 200844 FYI my flywheel is aluminum. I didn't want aluminum but the RAM guy assured me that with the added weight of the dual disk clutch the weight difference is negligible.

very very cool! i thought you were using a stock type unit! I had not noticed your mention of a multi disk!

do you feel confident in spinning it high rpm? is it sfi certified?

sorry for all the questions

 

[Scott Atk]

Not sure on the SFI certification as it's not a concern with my new direction (pro-touring). As far as RPM, I would certainly hope it's good to go for what I'm trying to do, especially for the price.

 

[charlief1]

I know that the billet flywheel I've got weighs in about 25 lbs so adding a conventional clutch to that would raise it up to between 40 and 50 lbs total depending on the clutch used. Have you weighed yours yet Scott?

 

[Scott Atk]

That's good info, I will definitely do that once I can get it all together. Half of it is in the car and half on the shelf right now. LOL. My guess is that I'll be around 30 lbs. My concern is getting going from a stop under light throttle.

 

[charlief1]

The Z-28 GM factory flywheel weighed quite a bit less than the factory one so if you're around 30-35 lbs you should be ok but be prepared for the engine to rev really fast.

 

[gnpoweredrail]

the faster it revs the faster the turbo spools anyways

 

[Scott Atk]

Promise? I always thought the higher the load, the better the spool. Isn't that why nobody runs a really low rear end gear? I'll definitely trust your judgment Bert since you're one of the very few who has "been there done that" with a manual trans.

 

[gnpoweredrail]

yes load is the other way of doing it...the faster an engine revs the more exhaust pressure that comes out of it at a increased speed.
trust me you will be happy.

 

[charlief1]

It's a bit of a catch 22 Scott. You have to use a combination of the 2 to make it work right. One thing that ell help is a BOV recirculated to the in side of the turbo to keep the turbo moving in the right direction rather than the "sneeze" that's so common in the design.

 

[Scott Atk]

A little FYI stuff. On the aftermarket cranks the flange does not have a perfect right angle, there's a bit of roll where the flexplate, or in my case, flywheel bolts up. It's a good idea to put a small chamfer on the flywheel. This will let the flywheel sit flat on the crank and not rock. Thanks to Bert (gnpoweredrail) for this tech tip!

 

[Scott Atk]

very very cool! i thought you were using a stock type unit! I had not noticed your mention of a multi disk!

do you feel confident in spinning it high rpm? is it sfi certified?

sorry for all the questions

UPDATE: Checked today and there is an SFI sticker on the flywheel. HTH, Scott

 

[charlief1]

While things are apart weigh them Scott. That way you know how much is hanging off the back.

 

[Scott Atk]

The verdict is in... 35 lbs. That's flywheel, two clutch disks, friction plate that rides between the two disks, and the pressure plate.

 

[charlief1]

A little lite but that should let you rev faster Scott.

 

[gnpoweredrail]

A little FYI stuff. On the aftermarket cranks the flange does not have a perfect right angle, there's a bit of roll where the flexplate, or in my case, flywheel bolts up. It's a good idea to put a small chamfer on the flywheel. This will let the flywheel sit flat on the crank and not rock. Thanks to Bert (gnpoweredrail) for this tech tip!


View attachment 202889

Yeah I had to find out the hard way and ruin a brand new iron flywheel...you would have definitely destroyed the aluminum one...

yeah the factory crank has a internal radius and the aftermarket 4340's have an external...