Bathtub intake gasket...
- Thread starter S10xGN
- Start date
Take a look at this link...You need one of the valley pans like the 2nd pic.
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/parts-sale/290281-new-used-parts-pics.html
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/parts-sale/290281-new-used-parts-pics.html
I guess I'll have to make one. I remember (many years ago!) there was a tech article someone had done on how to cut down a "bathtub" and just use the center section, but I cannot find it now...
Edit: Found a post similar to the one I remember, but not exact. It references some info on GNTTYPE but most of that is "404". There were 2 pics that showed and mine look about like them, but my pan won't stay in place. At least I won't trust it to stay in place as it sets...
Edit: Found a post similar to the one I remember, but not exact. It references some info on GNTTYPE but most of that is "404". There were 2 pics that showed and mine look about like them, but my pan won't stay in place. At least I won't trust it to stay in place as it sets...
You have to trim the stock bathtub gasket to remove the actual intake ports, but leave enough so that the little "hooks" still grab and enough gasket left to hold the valley tray in place. I also cut the 1200 enough to clear where the bathtub gasket needs to tough. I cut the 1200 between the water ports and intake as well as in the EGR area. I would not sandwich them. I really like the sheetmetal valley pan in those pictures. Seems fairly easy to make.
turbofabricator
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Mar 7, 2004
I cut the ports off of the valley pan, then drill it and screw it to the bottom of the intake. Simple and fairly easy. I've used sheet metal screws with epoxy, and 10-32 allen screws with locktight. Or, ditch the PCV and don't worry about it.
Greg,
I've got it trimmed to the max, but there's still too much "overlap" where both gaskets come into play. I'm not coordinated enough to get it to stay in place with so little contact area, so I'll prolly build something tomorrow that will snap in under the heads or if I get frustrated with it, just screw it to the intake as Ken does.
jpwalt1987
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Nov 9, 2003
Russ,
Looks good! Where did you have to trim it at? Near the pushrods? Glad it worked out for you. Talk to you later. Jeremy
Looks good! Where did you have to trim it at? Near the pushrods? Glad it worked out for you. Talk to you later. Jeremy
- Joined
- May 26, 2001
It seems to me the object of using a valley pan intake gasket is to prevent oil from entering the PCV?
With that in mind, for performance street builds we have just put a baffle around the PCV hole on the bottom side of the intake.
The one pictured below is probably the most "extreme" one we have done to date!
There is a space between welds so air can travel through there, as well as the perforated holes in the end cap.
With that in mind, for performance street builds we have just put a baffle around the PCV hole on the bottom side of the intake.
The one pictured below is probably the most "extreme" one we have done to date!
There is a space between welds so air can travel through there, as well as the perforated holes in the end cap.
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DoubleD
Too many Regals
- Joined
- Jul 28, 2006
Hey, I found it again.
Page Title
They have them for our cars. $35 when I bought mine plus shipping. Works out very nicely.
Page Title
They have them for our cars. $35 when I bought mine plus shipping. Works out very nicely.
Yup, I buzzed off about 1/4" per side the length of the tray...
Its been my experience that oil still puddles on AMP plate and a good air-oil seperator is needed as PCV valve will suck up some oil on plate ..and exhaust will smoke blue..dont forget to install a check valve not to let boost enter air-oil seperator (catchcan)
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