I just installed mine, with studs, and that middle passenger side bolt is a BITCH! Is there some special tool to get that thing tight? I had to pull the starter to even get on it with a wrench that I heated with a torch to bend. What's the trick? I'm thinking of buying another set of headers that are stock style, but better quality than stock, just to not have to deal with this issue.
ATR Style Header Question
- Thread starter peterkin
- Start date
forcefed3.8's
Buckeye Bullet
- Joined
- May 26, 2002
I used an allen bolt with a swivel end wrench.
- Joined
- May 28, 2001
A header bolt with a 3/8 or 7/16 head on it fits in there nicely. You can tighten it up and it will hold. Usually its the back bolt on the #6 cylinder that wants to come back out.
Any header SBC header bolt will work. O Reilly Auto Parts had a nice set for $10 they worked just fine.
Any header SBC header bolt will work. O Reilly Auto Parts had a nice set for $10 they worked just fine.
Tell me about it...I had a nasty exhaust leak on my race car that I thought was valve train noise at first...removed the header and the copper gasket around #6 was black...guess I need to check those header bolts more often...so much for lock washers...
I use a 14mm Flex socket. And a little shorter bolt. The header came new with a shorter bolt.
turbofabricator
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Mar 7, 2004
First start the car and run it at 2,000 RPM for ten minutes. THEN quickly reach in there and tighten the bolt up. THEN you can call yourself a MAN!!!! When you start hearing a sizzling sound.........You KNOW you are dong it right.
My twin system is based off of the ATR headers. I just added another turbo inlet pipe to the original one. I'm not sure why you are having so much trouble getting to the bolts. Are they real ATR headers or Chinese version? Or Kenne-Bell knock offs? The ATR headers are not really my favorite version either. I think the TA street headers are the way to go for 99% of those needing headers. Their race version cross over pipe is too close to the fuel return/vent lines on the passenger side IMO.
My twin system is based off of the ATR headers. I just added another turbo inlet pipe to the original one. I'm not sure why you are having so much trouble getting to the bolts. Are they real ATR headers or Chinese version? Or Kenne-Bell knock offs? The ATR headers are not really my favorite version either. I think the TA street headers are the way to go for 99% of those needing headers. Their race version cross over pipe is too close to the fuel return/vent lines on the passenger side IMO.
