ARP stud part# for rwd blazer/ s10 swap?

[turbobully]

Scored a full setup off CL for $100. Need to replace the studs, rebuild calipers and replace pads and rotors. Anybody have the arp part# for studs and suggestions on rotors and pads? Was going to do the C5 swap but ill use this setup for now


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[novaderrik]

any special reason for wanting the ARP part number?
why not just hit up your favorite local auto parts store and get a some Dorman studs for it?

 

[turbobully]

No reason just figured if im going through the hassle of swapping go w the best.


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[turbobully]

When i see the price i may change my mind....


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[83hurstguy]

You want ARP 100-7708. They are reasonably priced, just did it a few months ago. You will have to press the old studs out, drill the holes to 0.500", then press the new ones in. The holes for the old studs will be like 0.484", and the knurl on the ARP's is 0.509". It's way too much to press fit, so I confirmed the fitment with ARP.

It was worth the upgrade. The wheels torque much more solidly now, and repeatability is there.

 

[turbobully]

Thanks for the info 83hurstguy

 

[turbobully]

$36 from summit. Anyone ever use these rotors? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-br-66017r/overview/year/1998/make/chevrolet/model/s10

 

[turbobully]

actulally only $26 free shipping if I get all the other stuff. Looks like $175 for the caliper rebuild kit, studs, power slot rotors which I used on a truck in the past and liked, and power stop pads. So less than $300 for everything as long as the hubs are good..

 

[83hurstguy]

Those aren't the right rotors. Those are the ones with integrated bearing races for a standard spindle. You need one with slip on rotor for a ZQ8/blazer.

 

[turbobully]

Thanks for the heads up http://www.summitracing.com/parts/s...98/make/chevrolet/model/blazer/drivetrain/rwd this should be the right one I think...

 

[83hurstguy]

looks like the right one.

 

[novaderrik]

You want ARP 100-7708. They are reasonably priced, just did it a few months ago. You will have to press the old studs out, drill the holes to 0.500", then press the new ones in. The holes for the old studs will be like 0.484", and the knurl on the ARP's is 0.509". It's way too much to press fit, so I confirmed the fitment with ARP.

It was worth the upgrade. The wheels torque much more solidly now, and repeatability is there.

and then when the wheel hub needs to be replaced he gets to do it all over- while voiding any warranty the new hub might have had in the process..

just get some stock Dorman studs for the truck application and call it good...

 

[83hurstguy]

and then when the wheel hub needs to be replaced he gets to do it all over- while voiding any warranty the new hub might have had in the process..

just get some stock Dorman studs for the truck application and call it good...

Wow, another whole $28 in ARP studs and $40 at the local machine shop to swap them for a new pair of front bearings... which if you buy timkens are easily good for >50k miles, more than 90% of this site probably drives their cars. Seems like a great place to save money.

 

[novaderrik]

Wow, another whole $28 in ARP studs and $40 at the local machine shop to swap them for a new pair of front bearings... which if you buy timkens are easily good for >50k miles, more than 90% of this site probably drives their cars. Seems like a great place to save money.

why make things unnecessarily difficult- and spend money unnecessarily- for no real benefit other than being able to brag about your name brand aftermarket wheel studs?

 

[83hurstguy]

Because metallurgy, material strength and thread design go beyond brand name. Owned both, can easily tell the difference just torquing wheels. No need to brag, just don't want to be the DA sitting there with sheared off lugs at an inopportune time (or trying to extract a spinning stud from inadequate spline engagement). As a professor I had once said, Darwin developed a theory for a reason...

 

[turbobully]

Do you guys know the wheel bearing part#? Is it a press in is that why you mentioned a machine shop?


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[turbobully]

i can get the whole hub assembly new for $60


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[turbobully]

I guess the good ones cost a few bucks...


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[turbobully]

Good ones cost a few bucks...


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[charlief1]

If you check evilbay you can get the hub assemblies new, for as little as $40 shipped. Three bolts hold it in place so just take them off and hit the hub with a hammer and it falls off.