Anyone run 12's stock w/slicks?

[GN and Sho's]

It was brought up on another board and I figured this would be the best place to answer it. The comment was made "it would be easy to run 12's with a stock GN with nothing but slicks". This just doesn't seem accurate to me.

While I see 12's as within easy grasp for a TR, it seems that it would take at least a few mods to get there. So what is the least modding you have done to hit 12's?????

 

[UNGN]

Fuel pump would be needed because the factory fuel pump was weak when these cars were new. ($100)

A stock TR isn't going to run 12's with the cat in place, so hollow it out and cross bolt it to the exhaust so it "dumps" (FREE)

Make an adjustable wastegate for ($4)

Buy a Thrasher 108 or equivalent set up to use the stock FP regulator ($25)

The stock airfilter is restrictive. You can remove the airfilter and run without the bottom plate (If you only want to run 12's a few times - Free) or you can buy a cone K&N ($40)

Bolt on slicks, turn the boost to 20 PSI, pour in race gas leave with as much boost as the brakes and tires will hold and it should run 12's @ 106 or so mph.

Jumper the ALDL with a paperclip to lock up the TC and it should pick up 2-3 more mph (Free, if you borrow the paperclip).

That works out to less than $200, less slicks but including race gas.

If the car is old and stuff is broken it will cost more than this, but you get the idea of how cheaply it can be done.

 

[GS70350]

Lets see, a stock GN with slicks might hit 13.6 or so, straight off the showroom. The GNX did 13.2 in some test, stock, with the stock tires, put on slicks you might hit high 12s if the air is good. I know someone with a ALL stock GN, stock chip and all, went out with some BFG drag radials, and high 13.79 at 99mph. I bet if you got some sticky slicks, and got the pressure just right, did a 15psi boost launch, off the ebrake and footbrake, you might get close. lol, otherwise open the exhaust for free and try again, keeping an eye on the knock and 02s, since the stock fuel pump doesnt go to far.

 

[Snorman]

My list...

1. Racetronix 340 Walbro and HW kit, $150
2. Cotton's 93 chip, $25 (used)
3. Test pipe, $35
4. Air cleaner base lid, $10
5. 160* stat, $10
6. TC switch, $5
7. Adjustable WG actuator, $85

That's slightly over $300. If you wanted to go "low buck" you could hollow out the stock cat, fashion a homemade actuator and save a few bucks doing the hotwire yourself instead of getting a "plug and play" kit. I also had a Scanmaster, boost gauge and a set of 235/60-15 DR's. The car went 12.99@103.25 on a 1.77 60 ft. (hey...it's a 12 ).
S.

 

[wants a tr]

hooker catback, walbro 340 pump n hotwire, 160* stat, asj fpr, and slicks yeilded the time in my sig. that was with a broken motor mount. with a 1.6 60' it will go 12.50's ez. HTH

 

[Snorman]

wants a tr,
Just curious, was that on the stock chip with the cat in place and stock boost levels (14-15psi)?
S.

 

[wants a tr]

reds 100 chip, 22 lbs of boost, locking the converter. race gas and test pipe (it comes with the catback)

 

[new to tr's]

My '87 Turbo T w/98K on the clicker ran an 8.20 in the eighth mile. It only had an RA 93 chip, 8" K&N, 340, 160 stat, VP C116, adjustable gate, and open exhaust. The horrible 2.20 60ft's can be attributed to the worn out M&H's also!! Good luck.

 

[rb68rr]

Josh, just wondering why you mentioned the broke motor mount. Since I have one what effect would it have on performance? Thanks, R.B.

 

[gflo383]

quick question, what exactly is a hotwire kit, and what does it do? is it just supplying more current to the fuel pump? sorry, im new in the gn world.

 

[BoostKillsStres]

Hotwire sends alt voltage to fuel pump over a decent grade of wire instead of the single strand small stuff the factory used.

 

[d0n_3d]

here was my buildup when i ran low 12's

adj. wastegate
walbro 307 fuel pump with casper's hotwire upgrade
hooker cat back exhaust, gutted cat
3" downpipe
RJC powerplate
160 degree thermostat, tb lines cutoff
homemade cold air kit
LS1 MAF sensor and translator
tranny cooler
engine torque strap
TCC lockup at line
26x8.5x15 slicks
air bags
red armstrong 108 race chip w/ 110 octane race gas
gauges
scan tool

turbo was cranked to 23 psi (this was with a 45 degree outside temp btw)

everything else stock...10 psi launch

12.20 @ 112.25 mph

 

[timstips]

Could someone answer R.B.'s question about what effect a broken motor mount has on performance. Thanks, Tim

 

[wants a tr]

well the car was on slicks and just cutting a 1.8 60 ft. we threw the scantool on the car and on the launch the downpipe was hitting the frame creating knock. thus the car was pullin timing, not launching as hard as it could. make sense? HTH

 

[Steve Wood]

allows the manifold to hit the control arm and cause timing retard when the detonation sensor thinks it heard detonation...also the downpipe may hit the firewall.....same problem. May cut the positive battery cable and cause voltage loss and loss of power.

Delays the transmission of power to the rear end while the engine block rotates rather than the crankshaft. Chews up the tranny mount. May actually crack the tranny front housing.

 

[wants a tr]

good timing steve...

 

[timstips]

Thanks guys. What's the best way to check to see if something is hitting and causing false knock?

 

[Steve Wood]

Look!!

Check the bottom of the dp for a dent just above the the rear ear of the passenger side upper control arm. Crawl under the car and check for marks where the downpipe goes past the pinch weld on the bottom of the fire wall.

Have someone put the car in Drive, their foot on the brake and bring the car up to about 1500 rpm while you are looking over the driver's side fender watching the engine. If it suddenly lurches upward a few inches, then you know the driver's side engine mount is toast. (it can be pretty hard to see a broken mount from under the car when there is no torque on the engine as the crack in the rubber joint is closed up)

Keep your feet away from the front tire in case your friend at the wheel has an overzealous foot.

If you get timing retard on the one-two shift that promptly begins to diminish...that is a pretty good sign that the mount is bad and something is hitting when the engine lurches...it ain't good because there is a lot of torque and something will break, just a question of when.

 

[John Wilde]

Make sure you do a spring cleaning before turning the boost up.

1. Good Fuel Pump
2. Fuel Filter
3. Hot Wire Kit
4. Set TPS
5 Good Set of Spark Plugs, correct heat range
6. Adjustable waste gate kit
7. Clean out intercooler
8. Scan Tool
9. Dump the cat
10. Tires
11. Valve springs if car has high miles
12. Chip


With this and a down pipe I went 12.5 @ 105
with a 150,000 Mile Motor!!! I only wish
I would have had not original springs I think
I could have gone 12.3 @ 108 mph.

 

[Steve Wood]

Left out the fuel pressure gauge, John.