ANY suggestions on enclosed trailers??

[Steve Petro]

I am looking to buy a NEW enclosed car trailer. I am leaning twards a Pace 24 footer. There is not much of a price differance between 20 and 24 footers. Any brands or "must have options"? I see the 24 foot trailers range between $4,500 (U.S. Cargo) to $8,500 for a nicely equipped Pace. Thats a big differance. I plan on towing it with a Tahoe 4x4. I do not plan on using this thing every weekend or sleeping in it! Would a V-nose be better at cutting the wind? I could use it for snowmbiles too, with a v-nose flop down door. Any help would be nice, since there are alot of opinions out here on this board.
Thanks.

 

[Two Lane]

http://www.haulmark.com/

 

[STP]

The Pace is a good trailer. Get the heavy duty axles. It pulls better with them. If I were you I would get a trailer with a 48" driver side door right above the wheelwell. My last 24' Pace didn't have it, wish it did. I had to screw a piece of plywood to the floor right where the driver side rear tire set just so the car door would clear the fender of the trailer. Even then there isn't much room to get out without the side door open. Food for thought. Haulmark is also a good trailer, but I have no experience with that make. HTH

 

[NastyGn]

What I did was to make a spread sheet on a number of brands of trailers. I found that the construction of each brand is different.

The standard options on each is different also and this was the reason for making a spread sheet with options and the cost of the option if I had to order it.

A few things I found were different were thickness of the alum skin outside. Material and spacing of the support struts, type of flooring, comes with D-rings or not. There almost all different.

Something else I found was that with the cheaper trailers (non of them are cheap but lower in cost) was that the all steel construction of a number of brands were very heavy!! A couple of brands I was looking at with all steel constructions weight was right at 5000# empty and with the standard 3500# axles the GVW is 7000# this means the trailer is only suppost to hall a 2000# car and equptment.

Also look at trailer with a flat top and good roof support.

I compaired about 8 different brands of trailers and ended up getting a Classic brand.

Your also lucky to be in Michigan closer to where the trailers are made. I found that almost all companines charge over 1.50 per mile to deliver so for me (living in TX) I drove to Michigan to see my mother and picked up the trailer at the factory on my way home and saved like $2,100 in delivery charges.

Do your home work

Good Luck

 

[Steve Petro]

Thanks guys...

I see there is so much to choose from. It really gets confusing. I don't mind spending the $$$ to get a good one. I don't want a throw away one.

 

[Nashty]

I just bought a 24' Haulmark Elite 2 this past march (2002). I'm quite happy with it. Get the A frame mounted spare (the under floor is trapped with the car over it - and tie downs). Get a 48" door, and a light on the rear of the trailer for night repair work and loading. I also got a window which I love and a generator door even though I don't have a generator. I thought I could use it more for duffle bags and such but I don't use it much. I wouldn't get it unless you're getting a generator. The 12 volt trailer lights are pretty good inside and outside but don't compare to 110V lighting to work on the car. The Elite 2 has an insulated roof which is a pretty nice option, really lightens the inside of the trailer and makes it a lot more finished inside. I just got the bare plywood will paint it myself. Their finishing options are pricey.

Get the HD rear rollers on the rear underside of the trailer, mine drag constantly and the trailer would be damaged if not for those.

If you are using a ½ Ton truck, DON'T get the 12,000# axles. Look carefully at the weight ratings and be realistic about your car and tools. Mine has a 3500# capacity empty but hauls very nicely with tools, a 4 wheeler and the GN in it.

No complaints about the Haulmark but haven't tried the others.

 

[choppers4life]

steve, call ajax trailers in warren. this is where we buy all of our trailers. my advice, stay away from flat roofs and do not get a snowmobile type trailers. the body will sit on top of the axels and not off to the sides, thus raising height. make sure to look at the size between the fender wells. if you like pace, call gastmeijer at 10-groesbeck. the 24' pace they have has been sitting for well over a year now..

 

[CPAKCP]

Hey guys, I am looking for a enclosed also - have a couple of questions:
1. Can you get by with a 20' trailer and just haul the
Regal??
2. How tight is it to get out of the car without a driver's
side door? If you are under 200 lbs can you squeeze
by??
3.Where can you find these things used? They are
hard to find!!


Thanks in advance for any information

 

[NCTURBOS]

Haulmark...

I had a 2001 Haulmark Edge. 26-foot is the smallest I would go. Kind of like building a garage, you can never get too big. With tool boxes, compressor, generator, etc. you need some extra space.

The Haulmark is nice just a little on the heavy side. Make sure you get a sway-bar kit and weight distribution kit for the truck. You'll need it with a 1/2-ton pulling an enclosed trailer.


K.

 

[UNGN]

A tahoe is marginal to tow an enclosed trailer. I'm saying that because I've done it and did not like it and my trailer is only 20 ft and has dropped axles.

What Year Tahoe? '99 and down, get aftermarket firestone airbag setup, because the factory leafs are weak and bouncy. I tried helper springs and bent the factory leafs.

2000, and up, I'd put airbags in the factory coils.

Electric brakes and class IV load leveling hitch are mandatory.

There is no substitude for a 3/4 ton when towing an enclosed trailer.

 

[CPAKCP]

UNGN,

Has does your Regal fit it your 20" trailer?? Is there enough room? I agree with you, a 3/4 vehicle is necessary no matter if open or enclosed trailer when pulling a car!!!

 

[Nashty]

With all due respect, a ½ Ton truck is fine with the 24' trailer. My truck now has 3.73 gears (which you will need) and has a tow rating of 8000# which matches my trailer weight. I tow with a 99 Silverado which has the balls to tow. My 98 Dodge suffered from a lack of testes (360 CID).

I'm of the opinion that unless you use a ¾ Ton everyday, you don't need anything more than a ½ Ton. I get 19-21 MPG everyday and can pull 90% of what any bigger truck can.

With my 24' trailer, I put a toolbox, 4 wheeler, luggage for 4 for 5 days, a cooler and several parts inside for the trip from Illinois to KY last year through the hills. I wasn't out of room either. A 24' also has enough room for 6 adults and their coolers and the car when it rains in the pits. A 20 would be enough for the car and about 2' in front of the car plus it may put the weight too far forward. A 26' is pretty big, more weight than you probably want and more room than you'll need. Keep in mind that you have to manuever this thing around and store it too!

I guess from what I've learned, I'd go with a 24' with a half ton and require a heavier truck for a larger trailer. How serious do you want to get about it?

 

[CPAKCP]

Nasty,

Don't agree with you on this one. I have a 3/4 Suburban with has a 6.5 turbo diesel - have pulled TT form 20" to 32". When you get into trouble you will wish you had a bigger rig. Although the latter rigs are being built to handle more - I rather have too much of a tow vehicle then too little - just my two cents!!

Thanks for the info.

 

[n20junkie]

i have a 20 footer, fits the TR and i can work in it, i am skinny so it helps, but it is possible, and my f-150 can barley tow the thing trew the hills of pa, if i ahd a 24 footer with room for tool boxes then i would add another 2k in junk, then i would be stuck at the bottom of some hill in PA, i just put what tools i need in the back of the truck and it saves me the extra trailer weight, and the 4 ft can be a big difference in storing the trailer at home, but if i had a truck that could pull a 24 footer and room to store it, then i would buy the 24 footer.
Grant

 

[UNGN]

Originally posted by Nashty
With all due respect, a ½ Ton truck is fine with the 24' trailer. My truck now has 3.73 gears (which you will need) and has a tow rating of 8000# which matches my trailer weight. I tow with a 99 Silverado which has the balls to tow. My 98 Dodge suffered from a lack of testes (360 CID).

A Tahoe isn't "really" a 1/2 ton truck, but a tall car. The rear suspension is way soft vs. an equivalent pickup truck.

Would you recommend towing a loaded 24' trailer with a 1500 pickup with 1000 lbs in the bed?

My '96 Yukon had 3.73's and trailer towing package and it was still scary vs. my 2500 ram or Yukon XL. It "worked" but towing with a 2500 is SOOOO much easier.

 

[Steve Petro]

Hey choppers4life...

I went at lunch time today to see the 24 foot Pace at Gastmeijer. Its really nice. $6680 out the door. It was much better quality then the US Cargo one at Autorama. It was also $2100 more. The options are endless on these things too!

I only plan on using it occasionally. It won't be used to go to the track every weekend or cross county every week either. I have the room to store it at my friends house, so size does not matter.

I may get a crew cab 4x4 Chevy, Tahoe or a Suburban. I will check into the 3/4 ton's to see what they have availiable. My 1/2 ton Z71 Chevy will be turned back in soon with this early turn ins. I got time to look. It will be a GM for sure, I work for GM.

Thanks for all the help here guys!

 

[S2V6RACER]

1/2 ton truck and a enclosed trailer is NOT a good way to go. I did it and it was miserable.


Love my HD 2500 with the diesel. Can tow on the highway and easily pass on the left. 10 ply tires are nice too. Getting 14 MPG towing at around 70 MPH.


20' will fit your car and tools. You can get out of the car but it is tricky, especially with a cage. Get the widest trailer you can.

I have the V in the front of mine with a pull down door. I am happy with it, but wish I would have went with a 24 footer in hindsight.

 

[NCTURBOS]

There is no way I would pull an enclosed trailer with anything that's a 1/2-ton! And I'm not talking about pulling power. I'm talking about how the chassis/suspension reacts when an 18-wheeler passes you and that thing starts swaying back and forth, etc.

When the wind gets ahold of that thing your toast!!


K.

 

[Nashty]

Glad to see I inspire such spirited discussion.

For the record, my truck experiences as much sway as any other truck on the road, a semi, panel van... It is no more or less to drive. I have two axle brakes and good tires. My motor has enough power to pass when required and I can handle nearly as well as a larger truck. Yes, I said nearly. I do have an equalizer hitch and sway control. I also don't drive 80 while pulling a trailer, anyone that does that is an idiot in my book.

Would a ¾ or a 1 ton tow better? Probably a little. Would I be happier with one? No. I don't tow often enough to warrant the additional expense or penalties of the bigger truck. As I said, I get 19-21 MPG when not towing. I got 12 MPG towing to BG and back cruising 70mph. I'm pretty happy with that. I have other concerns besides when NOT towing. It's a matter of weighing the options for me. I have a perfect tow rig/trailer unit for me, heck, the paint even matches! your needs/wants will vary.

Is my truck safe to tow? Debate with GM, it meets their criteria, as well as Haulmark& Draw Tite. My wife even drives the thing loaded.

 

[jy211]

If I were you

I get a vrew cab dually. 4x4. Turbo Diesel with the allison transmission.