Another "my car pops during acceleration" post...

[CardBoardHero]

Hiya!

I'm going to rant a bit, as we've all felt the need. Started with a pin hole leak in the radiator. Decided while it was apart, that I should change the hoses, and the belts.

Figured that I had the intercooler off, I should do the spring cleaning.

Then the water pump developed a leak.

Now, once its all back together, during a hard acceleration, it cuts like you turned the key off. Let off, the car recovers and is fine again.

My guess is that I have a vacuum leak - maybe in the process I dislodged some line.

Unfortunately, no scanmaster, I haven't made it that far yet. Suggestions welcomed!

 

[we4Mateo]

Check all the intercooler hoses, again, since they were just off.

 

[RIFF RAFF]

Yeep

check all the intercooler hoses, again, since they were just off.

x2 even a small leak under boost can cause big issues..

 

[Roc87]

Do you have a boost gauge, if so, does it cut-out at a certain boost? Does the vacuum reading still read what it used to before the spring cleaning? How old are the plugs/wires? Plug gap?

 

[BlackBandit]

Unfortunately, no scanmaster, I haven't made it that far yet. Suggestions welcomed!

Get a scanmaster. At least some way to monitor knock. If you don't you're going to trash your engine and then bitch about how TR's suck. I know I sound kind of a-hole-ish but I really do mean it and want to see you do well. If you try to go fast without some way to monitor things you have NO ONE but yourself to blame when things go south.

 

[CardBoardHero]

And the plot thickens...

Looking over things this morning, with a fresh mind... I see one of the clamps that holds the hose to the intercooler is messed up - so, I remove the up pipe, re-align, put it back together, with a fresh clamp. Looks like the new silicon hose is now sealing tight up.

Start up the car - an immediate improvement in the idle. After about 30 seconds of running - I get the Service Engine Soon light on, and stays on.

Guess I look at it after work now.

 

[GNRick]

A scan tool such as a scanmaster will tell you the blm. This value will tell you if you have a vacuum leak. There are various ways to trouble shoot vacuum leaks, but I like my smoke machine. Bought it off Craigs List for $300. I just found my egr valve was leaking, and my chip doesn't even use the egr function. I put on a block off plate and all is well (for now). Also, a TPS sensor with a dead spot will cause symptoms like yours. Could also be the crank sensor, coil pack, or ignition module.

 

[CardBoardHero]

I drove it in to work, with the idea I can drop it at the shop to test out for a vacuum leak. Engine light went off, car ran perfect all the way in.

Even moderate acceleration was great, so a bit harder, great smooth acceleration.

It's what I love about old cars! I guess I will see what lunch brings.

 

[CardBoardHero]

Testing at lunch, it seems 10psi is where the cut out is.

I did see a few vacuum lines that the ends are questionable, so that is where I am going to start.

 

[in the elevens]

Do you have a fuel pressure gauge?

 

[BlackBandit]

here, is my guess. You have a weak pump or some other fueling deficiancy so when you accelerate moderately the ecu can compensate for the detonation but when you hammer it it goes way lean and "pops". I'm really trying to help when I say you NEED a scantool before you drive the car under boost.

 

[CardBoardHero]

Hooked up to scan computer, gave a reading for bad mass airflow. Took it out, and it basically fell apart in my hand. Looks like it has been repaired once.

So, going to start there, replace and see what is next.

In the meantime, guess this weekend means connecting up the scanmaster and testing that.

Thanks for the suggestions.

Also, fuel pressure was 38 at idle and climbed with tapping the gas. Looked ok.

I am in no hurry, just been replacing the worn out as they come up.