Another motorcycle question
- Thread starter Johnnie
- Start date
needforspeed150
To many cars and motorcycles
- Joined
- Oct 30, 2006
On my motorcycles I use a maintenance charger and put some stable in the tank. If you are using it next spring you will be fine.
Start it every few days and drive it around the block a few times (if possible), this way the circulation is kept. I see no reason to change the oil/filter and a battery tender would not hurt. My opinion is simply based upon I have been a 'two wheel fool' since EK, late '60's, and I have always enjoyed the simplicity....takes a licking and keeps on ticking. You could also get a lift that will allow you to run through the gears achieving optimal operating temps.
Unfortunately, my garage is like a jigsaw puzzle,,and the bike only fits in one spot if I am to get both cars, the bike , my tool boxes, my bench ...and the old cub cadet I am starring to restore. It is a royal PITA to get it out to ride. Plus it gets pretty cold here in the Ohio valley. BTW, the bike still pulls like hell and it is a rush to ride.... Even if it is 40 years old. My family says " maybe you should sell it...." Hecky no.....A lot of fine mammories ...oooooops ..... I mean MEMORIES associated with that bike.Start it every few days and drive it around the block a few times (if possible), this way the circulation is kept. I see no reason to change the oil/filter and a battery tender would not hurt. My opinion is simply based upon I have been a 'two wheel fool' since EK, late '60's, and I have always enjoyed the simplicity....takes a licking and keeps on ticking. You could also get a lift that will allow you to run through the gears achieving optimal operating temps.
I do appreciate the replies.
Hello people and what's happening; You have one up on a lot of others out there where you have a garage. I have an old alum. shed. If I was you I'd fill the tank and add sta-bill to it. Run the bike a bit. Shut the petcock off and run it till it dies. I would drain the fuel bowels and take the bat. out and put in on a smart charger. I spray the bike with WD40 and put it to sleep. Another thing I just started doing is cover the bike with a sheet or something and I run a lightbulb under the cover. It adds a bit of heat to keep it dry and it works. That's about it. I use to do a lot more but I don't anymore.
IBBY
IBBY
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Im in MA and I do not have a heated garage. I jeep the tank full on my harley and car.
I leave the battery in both.
I start them up once or twice per month and let then warm up.
As long as the charging ststem is fine you shouldnt have a problem. I never have.
D
I leave the battery in both.
I start them up once or twice per month and let then warm up.
As long as the charging ststem is fine you shouldnt have a problem. I never have.
D
I would agree with stabil turn off valve then run till she dies. won't hurt to spry down Metal parts with wd. I would NOT being starting it 1 a month. you will be rusting out ur exhaust because u can't get rid of the condensation by just a 5 minute idle. put her to bed till spring.
Thank you for all the replies.
What I did was the following: added some stabil, rode it for about 20 minutes to let the fuel with stabil get into the carbs, coat of wax on all the shiny parts, lubed up exposed cables and other assorted levers with WD, removed the battery and put it on a trickle charger and timed to come on twice daily for an hour each time ( along with my tractor battery in parallel ), and covered it with a cotton sheet and set it in its reserved place in the garage.
What I did was the following: added some stabil, rode it for about 20 minutes to let the fuel with stabil get into the carbs, coat of wax on all the shiny parts, lubed up exposed cables and other assorted levers with WD, removed the battery and put it on a trickle charger and timed to come on twice daily for an hour each time ( along with my tractor battery in parallel ), and covered it with a cotton sheet and set it in its reserved place in the garage.
I no longer use Sta-Bil. It makes the exhaust stink too much for me. I have been using the Lucas fuel stabilizer.
I have found a gas station that sells "Clear Premium" that is ethanol free. Ethanol is bad news. Fill the fuel tank to the very top to reduce condensation collecting above the fuel level. Close the fuel petcock & drain the carb bowl(s), or at least run the engine until it runs out of fuel.
Change the oil & filter. This will help remove any condensation, acids, etc, that have accumulated in the old oil.
Remove spark plugs & give each cylinder a shot of oil, then rotate engine to cover cylinder walls. Replace plugs with new ones if needed.
Try to support the bike so the tires are off the ground, or at least use the center-stand if the bike has one. Over inflate the tires slightly.
Consider removing the battery & storing it on a piece of wood in a fairly climate controlled atmosphere. Buy a 3/4 amp Battery Tender if you don't already have one. Use it every couple of weeks, once a month, or so.
Plug the exhaust outlets with plugs, rags, or rubber band a plastic bag over the end(s).
Clean or replace the air filter. Plug the air inlet if possible.
Beware of rodents & insects taking up residence & chewing things up like the wiring.
Every once in a while, walk by the bike & turn the wheels, rotate engine if you have a kick starter, or place in high gear & turn rear wheel. Exercise the brake levers, pedals, shifter & clutch, to help keep seals & hydraulic lines in good shape.
I don't agree with spraying anything with WD-40. WD-40 is not a preservative, it is more of a solvent. The "WD" stands for Water Displacement. I have bought a gallon can of WD-40, mixed it 50-50 with clean 30WT or 40WT engine oil & then poured it into a plastic spray bottle like what is used to mist plants, spray household cleaners, etc. That makes a good preservative for bare metal, freshly machined surfaces, etc. The oil adds enough body to cling to the surfaces. The WD-40 allows it to be thin enough to spray.
These steps have worked well for me on my bikes & I haven't had to clean a carb in a while.
Good luck.
I have found a gas station that sells "Clear Premium" that is ethanol free. Ethanol is bad news. Fill the fuel tank to the very top to reduce condensation collecting above the fuel level. Close the fuel petcock & drain the carb bowl(s), or at least run the engine until it runs out of fuel.
Change the oil & filter. This will help remove any condensation, acids, etc, that have accumulated in the old oil.
Remove spark plugs & give each cylinder a shot of oil, then rotate engine to cover cylinder walls. Replace plugs with new ones if needed.
Try to support the bike so the tires are off the ground, or at least use the center-stand if the bike has one. Over inflate the tires slightly.
Consider removing the battery & storing it on a piece of wood in a fairly climate controlled atmosphere. Buy a 3/4 amp Battery Tender if you don't already have one. Use it every couple of weeks, once a month, or so.
Plug the exhaust outlets with plugs, rags, or rubber band a plastic bag over the end(s).
Clean or replace the air filter. Plug the air inlet if possible.
Beware of rodents & insects taking up residence & chewing things up like the wiring.
Every once in a while, walk by the bike & turn the wheels, rotate engine if you have a kick starter, or place in high gear & turn rear wheel. Exercise the brake levers, pedals, shifter & clutch, to help keep seals & hydraulic lines in good shape.
I don't agree with spraying anything with WD-40. WD-40 is not a preservative, it is more of a solvent. The "WD" stands for Water Displacement. I have bought a gallon can of WD-40, mixed it 50-50 with clean 30WT or 40WT engine oil & then poured it into a plastic spray bottle like what is used to mist plants, spray household cleaners, etc. That makes a good preservative for bare metal, freshly machined surfaces, etc. The oil adds enough body to cling to the surfaces. The WD-40 allows it to be thin enough to spray.
These steps have worked well for me on my bikes & I haven't had to clean a carb in a while.
Good luck.
I do not trust those vacuum operated petcocks. If the diaphragm dries out/wears out & cracks (which it will sooner or later) then fuel will be allowed to flow downhill into the carb(s) & possibly fill a cylinder. Then when you try to start the engine, it may hydro lock & possibly damage a connecting rod.
I have modified my vacuum operated petcocks to eliminate that function & become a 100% manual controlled valve. Of course this requires the operator to be responsible for closing the valve every time you shut down the engine. If you are unable to remember 100% of the time, you may not want to modify the petcock.
Removing the vacuum operated feature assists in starting the engine quickly after draining the float bowl(s). Open the petcock & the bowl(s) begin to fill without having to crank the engine excessively.
Bottom line... Manually close the petcock after shutting the engine off whether it is vacuum controlled or not.
1978 Suzuki gs750 E . I bought it new when I was 21 to establish credit. I've done a lot of work to it over the years.....rings, 4 into one (kerker), new ... more like "rebuilt" all the calipers, took all the pitted chrome off, blasted all of it and powder coated gloss black....... Rebuilt the carbs.... Replaced chain and both sprockets...rebuilt the petcock... Stuff like that
Cool!
Post up some pics.
I'm not sure about the petcock on that bike. I've owned more Honda & Yamaha bikes. I suppose you could remove the fuel line from the petcock, then replace it with a length of line with a bolt/plug in the other end.
The vacuum operated petcocks that I'm familiar with, have 3 positions. Off, On & Reserve. I remove the cover to the vacuum diaphragm, then swap the spring that holds the diaphragm normally closed, to the opposite side to hold it open & reassemble. I then remove & plug the vacuum source.
Post up some pics.
I'm not sure about the petcock on that bike. I've owned more Honda & Yamaha bikes. I suppose you could remove the fuel line from the petcock, then replace it with a length of line with a bolt/plug in the other end.
The vacuum operated petcocks that I'm familiar with, have 3 positions. Off, On & Reserve. I remove the cover to the vacuum diaphragm, then swap the spring that holds the diaphragm normally closed, to the opposite side to hold it open & reassemble. I then remove & plug the vacuum source.