Aluminum Fuel Lines?

Kovmat

Member
Joined
Sep 29, 2007
Anyone used Aluminum Fuel Lines? What are the pro's and con's? Way cheaper than Stainless.

Any thoughts on that?

Thanks,
Matt
 
Most of the entire factory fuel line on our cars is aluminum so I can't see why there would be a problem. I have a Prostreet blown NovaSS and I ran a half inch fuel line to the carbs and a 3/8ths back to the fuel cell. Never had a problem. Easy to install. The material is soft and could be dinged by a rock or something but I really don't see an issue.
 
Most of the entire factory fuel line on our cars is aluminum so I can't see why there would be a problem. .

:confused: The factory lines are steel, not aluminum. I wouldn't use aluminum but that's MHO :) . It's easier to damage aluminum. It work hardens easily and I wouldn't trust it. Not a fan of having fires in my car. :rolleyes:
 
:confused: The factory lines are steel, not aluminum. I wouldn't use aluminum but that's MHO :) . It's easier to damage aluminum. It work hardens easily and I wouldn't trust it. Not a fan of having fires in my car. :rolleyes:

X2
I wouldn't even run one on my lawn mower. Serious problem with vibration and cracking. It's a pain to bend steel but it IS the safest thing to run and if your insurance has to pay and find out you run aluminum you're screwed.
 
I thought some racing sanctions didn't allow aluminum fuel tubing? The best chassis builders will not recommend aluminum fuel tubing for the reasons already explained.
 
Quote from Summit® about Aluminum Fuel Lines


These lightweight aluminum fuel lines flow more fuel than your factory fuel line. The thin wall seamless tubing is legal in all race classes.
 
BS - I've run 1/2" aluminum hard lines from front to rear on my race car for years - no issues whatsoever. Aluminum is much easier to work with than most materials - just be sure to properly secure it to the frame and protect it from rubbing/chaffing.
 
How about where it transitions from the frame to the body? Do you just leave some slack to allow for a little movement?
 
My mistake. It's copper line that you want to stay away from. Turns out aluminum line is commonly used for fuel and oil. Still, I wonder how the aluminum holds up to gasolines with alcohol content.
 
How about where it transitions from the frame to the body? Do you just leave some slack to allow for a little movement?

Stay with hard line for as much of the run as you can then switch to flexible line. What I do is start at the pump with flexible AN hose then going to aluminum hard line down the inner frame rail - when it gets to the engine bay or whatever point you choose, convert it back AN hose all with hard tube to AN adaptors - this gives you your flexibility to connect to the fuel rails, pumps, etc.

My mistake. It's copper line that you want to stay away from. Turns out aluminum line is commonly used for fuel and oil. Still, I wonder how the aluminum holds up to gasolines with alcohol content.

I've never had a problem with the aluminum line and gasoline. The braided SS AN lines do occasionally have to be replaced due to deterioration/leakage. I'm not sure about high concentrations or straight up alcohol. Probably as long as the system was flushed and shut down with gas it would be OK. When I used to play with alcohol on drag bikes years back, I always had to be sure to flush the engine out with regular gasoline after racing to keep the alky from corroding the carbs, cases, etc - anything aluminum.
 
Thanks for all the input. Sounds like aluminum could be a good option for me. I assume it can be flaired and bent with standard tools.

Matt
 
You must use the inserts in order to attach it with AN nuts. It will not work with a normal compression fitting and ferrel. The insert actually becomes the seat and the nut squeezes the line when tightened and makes the seal. Try it, but my guess is you won't like it. I have a 25' roll on my garage wall I bought several years ago and tried to bend. Went with stainless. The aluminum comes rolled up and it looks like crap when straightened out.
Just my opinion.

Coach
 
Be sure to use a 37* flaring tool, also. JEGS has them in stock for cheap. You "can" use 45* flare with aluminum, because it will conform to the 37* AN fittings with a back-up sleeve, BUT........use 37* and do it right. It IS fuel after-all.
 
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