Air line routing for relief valve w/bleed valve set up

[whtturbot]

What is the correct set up for running a relief valve in conjuction with a bleed valve for boost control. I currently have my bleed valve mounted in the car and I would prefer to keep it there. I have the McMaster Carr relief valve ready to go in!!



TIA !


Jeff C
87 T
11.90@119

 

[Sinful6]

I think this would be the best way to go about it(it assumes that you use a "Y" or "T"):


1.Run a hose from the nipple on the turbo compressor going to the left part of the "Y",

2.Run another hose from the center part of the "Y" going to your in-car bleeder valve.

3.The last part of the "Y"(on the right side) would run to the barb on the relief valve that is opposite the adjustment knob( you can see the ball blocking the hole through the barb).

4.Finally, you would run another hose from the remaining barb on the relief valve to the wastegate actuator.


I hope that helps you, email me if you have any questions(dcc@japan.com).

For a lot more info on these valves, or if you would like to help support the community by purchasing one from me, go Here.




-DC

 

[whtturbot]

Thanks for the reply (sinful6) , if the vavle i have dont work good ill be in touch with you. I like your design. Are you running a bleed/relief set up in your car? If so what do you set your wastgate rod to? Im running a pte52 with a hd wastegate.

Thanks again ! Im going to try the new set up tonight wish me luck! Im still getting around to snapping of some pics of my dash mount bleed valve.

Jeff C.
87 T

 

[Sinful6]

Yes, I run a bleeder/relief combo in my car, as for the wastegate rod, I suggest re-adjusting it back to stock length(or less boost) so that it may break evenly, and quickly. I would like to see a picture of that dashmount boost controller.

With your TE52, you'll really like this valve, especially if you have a properly matched stall torque convertor(I also run a TE52 with a 3000NLU stall).



-DC

 

[whtturbot]

Well I have the new valve installed and it seems to work pretty dam good !!!! Im still playing with the wastegate rod and the relief pressure valve setting. I can say it does spool up like a bat out of hell. Sinful6 im running a 3200 lu percision converter in my car. I also noticed a decrease in boost spike, and that is a very good thing. I want to get it set were the relief opens around 13-15 and my full boost around 24-26 for the street. I can tell im going to have alot of fun tuning the car in !!!!!!!!!! Thanks to Sinful6 for the help, I still may consider your valve ! I did do my McMaster Carr valve slightly different from the web design, I drilled and tapped the relief side so I could install a regular fitting, worked good.

Ill take some pics of the dash tomorrow just need some help on how to post them.


Jeff C
87 T

 

[whtturbot]

TTT

 

[scottyb]

Sinful and wh, how is the spike with this setup? I have been trying to get rid of the spike for a LONG time and thought I tried all combinations of relief and bleeder and combined until this.

Let me make sure I understand:
"Y" port with the restriction goes to relief valve then on to actuator?

Other "Y" ports (open ports): one to compressor, other to bleeder?

What kind of bleeder do you use? I have tried a needle valve and a fishtank kind in place of the solenoid and still spikes like mad.

Man, if I can stop the spike with my Thrasher 100 (ie manual control) I will be forever thankful!

 

[whtturbot]

Scott : Im running a (t) fitting on my car. I totally bypassed the stock boost solinoid. I am running DFI on the car but I had the stock boost contol by-passed before the switch. I ran a line from the turbo to a T fitting. from there one line goes into the car for the bleed valve. Th other side of the T fitting goes into the relief valve then to the turbo. I got to tell you, with the wastegate rod set to just barely go onto the swing arm, boost spike seems to be very minimal. 2 pounds of boost spike im thinking. Its sort of hard to determine because with the relief valve boost comes on very fast and im real busy trying to keep the car staight!!! I hope its not due only the ideal weather, but at a second roll, the car is all over the road !!!! Ive got the relief vale opening at around 10-12 pounds, and im getting 23-25 pounds for full boost.



LOVE THAT BOOST !!!!!!!!

Jeff C
87 T

 

[Sinful6]

scotty, What kind of relief valve are you using?


The problem seems to be in your boost controller... My valve doesn't spike at all.

Also, you don't need a restrictor "Y", the only restrictor should be on the hose running into the cockpit(to keep the pressure up).




-DC

 

[scottyb]

I bought one from Grainger and modified it for the second nipple. It cracks between 5 and 20 lbs. Problem is if I set it at max (my target is 20lbs), then it spikes as much as 23-24. This is a direct setup, compressor-relief-actuator with the actuator relaxed.

I have tried other combo's where the relief breaks at about 14 and I try to adjust more boost in with the bleeder. Still spikes.

I am using a needle valve. One full turn makes about 1 pound more. I have also tried the fishtank kind.

I have not tried a direct (tuner style) with a T and a bleeder off the T. I plan to try this next.

 

[whtturbot]

Sinful6 : What size restriction do you run in the bleed valve line? Im thinking of just spilicing the factory connector in the bleed line and just capping the third port off. So what size and how are you doing it ?


Jeff C
87 T

 

[Sinful6]

That's a really good question, it's been almost two years now... I want to say .040, but I could be wrong.



-DC

 

[Sinful6]

I just checked, it is .025"

Hope that helps.



-DC

 

[whtturbot]

Sinful, Is that the stock restriction size?



Jeff C
87 T

I have some pics of the dash install, how do i post them?