ac evaporator access

[dsa87gn]

After years of no AC, I started a new mission of repairing it. System has a leak as I used to put a couple cans of R12 every summer.

I put some charge/ UV dye in my system and noticed a few tiny spots in the condenser . Checked all the hoses good and nothing. Compressor seems ok unless its at the shaft.

Was wondering about the evaporator
Can I get at it from the top or do I need to remove the dash ?

 

[ITSAV6]

I believe the top of evap case comes off inside engine compartment.

 

[dvernst]

You can do it all from the engine bay. Change the heater core while you're in there too

 

[dsa87gn]

OK thanks. Finding it hard to get a part number for a new one of these.

Original number seems to be 3058311.

Anyone get a new one recently ?

 

[Turbo6inKY]

The evaporator core isn't exposed to the elements and it's largely shielded from engine heat. It's likely not the culprit. You can actually clamp a rubber cap on one side and pressurize it with shop air through a vacuum check valve and listen for leaks pretty easily.

Pinhole leaks in the condenser, the shaft seal on the compressor, and dried out o-rings are your likely problems.
I just replaced all of mine, including having the OE lines rebuilt. I sprang for a new 4Seasons compressor and a RockAuto Condenser and accumulator/dryer and filled it with 46oz of r134a.

I'm blowing 40 degrees out the vents in 90 degree ambient now. It's fantastic. My evaporator was fine. I just flushed it and blew all the moisture from the flush out with air.

And the 4Seasons compressor is silent and doesn't hit the engine nearly as hard as the the OE compressor did.

 

[dsa87gn]

The evaporator core isn't exposed to the elements and it's largely shielded from engine heat. It's likely not the culprit. You can actually clamp a rubber cap on one side and pressurize it with shop air through a vacuum check valve and listen for leaks pretty easily.

Pinhole leaks in the condenser, the shaft seal on the compressor, and dried out o-rings are your likely problems.
I just replaced all of mine, including having the OE lines rebuilt. I sprang for a new 4Seasons compressor and a RockAuto Condenser and accumulator/dryer and filled it with 46oz of r134a.

I'm blowing 40 degrees out the vents in 90 degree ambient now. It's fantastic. My evaporator was fine. I just flushed it and blew all the moisture from the flush out with air.

And the 4Seasons compressor is silent and doesn't hit the engine nearly as hard as the the OE compressor did.

I think your probably right, the evap is most likely fine. My car has just over 50K and is a summer only garage queen.
I can see a couple tiny pin holes in the condenser from the dye but that's it. I was hoping/expecting to see a leak at the compressor somewhere. I can't tell if the shaft seal is leaking or not, tough to see behind the clutch.
Where did you get the lines rebuilt ? I see highway stars sells some new resto compressor lines. $$

Did you use the MT2547 o-ring kit ?

 

[TurboSmart]

And they are reparable.

Turbo evaporators are quite unique and does not interchange with NA regals

 

[Turbo6inKY]

Where did you get the lines rebuilt ? I see highway stars sells some new resto compressor lines. $$

Did you use the MT2547 o-ring kit ?

My local A/C and radiator shop. They cut off the flex lines, then welded new ends on and crimped new flexible lines on. It was about $180. My old lines were leaking at the crimps. Then I touched up the black paint and back on the car they went.

I used the GPD 1321269 gasket kit from RockAuto. I also replaced the orifice tube with the Delco 155151.

 

[RmvBfrFlght]

I was hoping/expecting to see a leak at the compressor somewhere. I can't tell if the shaft seal is leaking or not, tough to see behind the clutch.

A leaking shaft seal will have the clutch tossing oil. A line across the hood and on engine parts is a sure sign.

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