The 10 amp fuse that protects or controls the a/c compressor clutch keeps blowing. Sometimes it will work for 2 miles and sometimes 5 miles. The 2 prong connector that goes to the clutch coil with the resistor was slightly melted,so I replaced and it continues to blow. Could the clutch coil be shorting? Or something else?
A/C Fuse Blowing
- Thread starter gnbrian
- Start date
- Joined
- Nov 4, 2005
it should be a diode not a resistor on the plug,make sure its installed in the right "direction"white band side one way or another,not sure which way,maybe someone here knows off the top of thier head,if not ill check mine tomorrow....
NJVetteGuy
I'd rather be racing...
- Joined
- Mar 24, 2004
Make sure the legs of the diode aren't touching either, I've seen a few come in the shop lately with that issue.
salvageV6
Daily Driver
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
Assuming it's the ECM/SOL fuse that's popping, if it isn't the compressor connector and diode, it's usually a shorted TCC wire in the tranny.
Usually starts out intermittant too.
Unplug the connector to the transmission and see if the fuse holds.
Check the wiring at the EGR solenoid, wastegate solenoid, cannister purge solenoid, and delay relay for shorted connectors or chafed wires as they too are on the same fuse.
Usually starts out intermittant too.
Unplug the connector to the transmission and see if the fuse holds.
Check the wiring at the EGR solenoid, wastegate solenoid, cannister purge solenoid, and delay relay for shorted connectors or chafed wires as they too are on the same fuse.
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2001
I have seen the A/C fuse blow when the powermaster is drawing too many amps. They are tied into the same circuit.
Doubt the ecm has anything to do with it.
BW
Doubt the ecm has anything to do with it.
BW
Jack Evers
Member
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
garyk1970 said:
Did you ever check and see which way the plug is supposed to be installed. I'm having the same problem blowing fuses. I replaced the plug at the clutch and don't remember which way it installs. Looks like it will go on either way.
Jack Evers
Member
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
I am fighting this same problem now. First sign of problem yesterday when A/C simply quit. Replaced fuse and runs great in park. Can let it run in park for 15 minutes and no problem. If I try to drive the car the fuse blows in less than 30 seconds. Have disconnected the plug at tranny and makes no difference. Replaced the relay and the plug at A/C (caspers replacement). No difference, still blows fuse. Any thoughts?
- Joined
- Nov 4, 2005
i just went out and took a look at my plug.standing at front of car,looking at compressor,green wire is facing the sky and black wire is facing the ground.the white band side of diode is connected to green wire,black side to black wire.hope this helps.
Jack Evers said:
Jack Evers
Member
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
Thanks for doing that, Gary. My compressor clutch plug is green wire up so it's hooked up right.
Interesting. I just replaced the fuse and took another ride with the A/C off. Came back and fuse was blown. There is something else besides the A/C on that circuit that's causing this to happened. I pulled the plug at the transmission and that made no difference.
Interesting. I just replaced the fuse and took another ride with the A/C off. Came back and fuse was blown. There is something else besides the A/C on that circuit that's causing this to happened. I pulled the plug at the transmission and that made no difference.
Jack Evers
Member
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
New ecm didn't help. did notice, however, what appears to be occasional pulsing of convertor lockup at very slow speeds (maybe 10 mph). I did pull the plug and still was blowing fuses. go figure.
salvageV6
Daily Driver
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
"Check the wiring at the EGR solenoid, wastegate solenoid, cannister purge solenoid, and fan delay relay for shorted connectors or chafed wires as they too are on the same fuse."
Could still be in the TCC wiring at the brake pedal shorting out. But not so likely.
I'd look around at all the stuff on that fuse for a possible short somewhere.
Especially if some of it has been removed from the car, such as the EGR, or cannister purge stuff.
Could still be in the TCC wiring at the brake pedal shorting out. But not so likely.
I'd look around at all the stuff on that fuse for a possible short somewhere.
Especially if some of it has been removed from the car, such as the EGR, or cannister purge stuff.
Jack Evers
Member
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
salvageV6 said:
Thanks, Salvage, appreciate your thoughts and will look into these items in daylight. Brain dead tonight.
Jack Evers
Member
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
Jack Evers said:
I think problem has been solved, thanks to SalvageV6. Disconnected the canister purge solenoid and no more blown fuses. So far, no codes register with the canister disconnected. Is this something I can just leave disconnected?
salvageV6
Daily Driver
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
For now maybe, but I wouldn't leave it off forever on a street car.
Measure the resistance across the two terminals with a good digital ohm meter if you have one.
I've never heard of one of them shorting out, but that would be a good test to do to be sure.
Can't cost too much to replace from gmparts or a vendor, that would also be one part I'd trust used from anyone with a race car that's removed it or used from Gbodyparts, Brian Weaver.
You might know a couple of those folks and pick one up free.
Measure the resistance across the two terminals with a good digital ohm meter if you have one.
I've never heard of one of them shorting out, but that would be a good test to do to be sure.
Can't cost too much to replace from gmparts or a vendor, that would also be one part I'd trust used from anyone with a race car that's removed it or used from Gbodyparts, Brian Weaver.
You might know a couple of those folks and pick one up free.
