95 3800 supercharger engine noise

Parkavesc

New Member
Joined
Apr 7, 2007
I have a serious knock (sounds like a rod) comming from the center of the engine. I removed the cerp. belt to disable the supercharger and get the same knock. I then when and pulled each spark plug wire off each cylinder to see if I noticed a change in the knock and nothing. I would think if it was a rod going out the sound would change, as the cylinder is not firing. I do not get a knock when just cranking engine over with out the coils firing.
The engine starts right up and runs but has no power and makes terrible knock or clank.. Anyway to figure out if this is a rod or not? I would think if the rod was going the engine would still run okay until the rod finally gave in. Help any suggestions on what I can do to figure this out, I hate to start dismantling when I'm really not sure what this couold be.. who knows it could be something simple. The knock isn't a ping so I don't think it's an ingnition issue.. Anyway, any advice would be a great help. How do you test for a bad rod anyway. Thanks
 
I would pull valve covers first ,start with front one,you make find trouble with rocker arm ,may find loose or broken stud,has happen to me ,good luck
 
If it has no power, it might be in the timing chain or valvetrain, or a "piston slap" causing low compression.
I'd remove all the spark plugs, screw in a compression gage in each cylinder and see if a cylinder is a lot lower in pressure. If you find a low cyl, squirt some motor oil in the spark plug hole and see if it improves, if yes it's the piston, if No, it's the valvetrain.
Piston slap usually happens b/c rings get carboned up and stick in the ring grooves allowing the piston to rock or "slap" and the piston hits BDC.(Chryslers 4cyls are notorius for this.)
Also valves can get bent, or guides full of carbon, then the valves stick in the open position for just a fraction of a second too long, and then clank shut...same for pushrods.
If it's more of a clatter and not a "hammer" sound deep in the motor, you can try stuff like "CD2" or "Valve Medic" to clean out the carbon, or sludge, freeing up a sticking part.
 
First Thing I Would Do Is Exactly What The Man Above Said. Check The Balancer. As Far As The Loss Of Power It Could Be That Since The Balancer Creates A Large Knock That It Is Tripping Your Knock Sensor Which Will Kill Your Timing To The Point Of Barely Idling I've Been Through 4 Balancers And Every Time This Happened To Me
 
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