87 T running stupid when it feels like it
- Thread starter highboost
- Start date
no map input to powerlogger, its a digital dash car so i need to add a map sensor and hook it up.
Previous owner added a ground to the MAF and it is hooked directly to the post on the ground extender to which I have added a ground directly to the neg post of the battery.
Will condensation build up in the exhaust housing of the turbo after being run then sitting overnight?
I started it up this morning and some clear water came out between the down pipe and exhaust housing.......
It's starting to make me wonder if it has a seeping head gasket
I started it up this morning and some clear water came out between the down pipe and exhaust housing.......
It's starting to make me wonder if it has a seeping head gasket
Yeah sometimes these cars can be a pain in the ass. Does it still have a cat maybe its clogged just throwing things out there i know the frustration i did a pressure check on my hole system when mine was giving me fits made a fitting out of pvc and caps for exhaust used a cig5for the smoke and put 20 psi or so in
yeah its getting frustrating....lol i appreciate the tips too!!! no cat, has a test pipe in place.
mikestertwo
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Sep 13, 2006
Get rid of that ground from the extender to the battery post. Those grounds on the extender/back of the head are signal grounds for the sensors which go back to the computer. If you run them back to the battery you could introduce an offset in the sensor readings.
achalmersman
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- May 28, 2012
Yea I would say thats a safe bet. Buy the connectors from Casper Electronics and I would highly advise using heat shrinkable butt connectors with sealant on all connections. You could also solder and heat shrink to save space but I prefer the butt connectors and stager the lengths so they arent all in the exact same spot. Also, obviously thr water intrusion needs fixed too if it hasn't been already.
Pretty confident I found my problem here......
No trees were harmed in the sending of this message, however, a significant number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced.
achalmersman
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- May 28, 2012
http://www.casperselectronics.com/c...uct/product&path=7_53_54_10_13&product_id=283
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NW_785924
No trees were harmed in the sending of this message, however, a significant number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced.
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NW_785924
No trees were harmed in the sending of this message, however, a significant number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced.
i dont see any water intrusions...they may have been fixed already, also the other connector is clean( has a pretty new windshield) so my guess is the windshield leaked at some point...i dont get why its just the 1 side of the pcm, thanks for the tip on getting the pigtails from caspers, i will pick them up and i prefer to soldier and heat shrink all my connections, i have seen to many butt connectors come loose or corrode when i installed car audio in the 90's so i always soldier everything unless its just a test connection before a permanent solution.
achalmersman
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- May 28, 2012
Good quality heat shrink and seal butt connectors are arguably a better connection than solder. Idk if its still the case but it use to be GM only approved the use of those connectors and NOT solder when repairing airbag circuits. They still provide shrink and seal butt connectors with all connectors they provide. It is the prefered connection assuming its done tight. You will be fine with solder though
No trees were harmed in the sending of this message, however, a significant number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced.
No trees were harmed in the sending of this message, however, a significant number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced.
Good idea, I will go through those and see when he had that fixed! I have looked the bottom of the car over for holes, but another good idea the check under the carpet for rust and get it knocked out before it becomes a problem. Thank you again
I'm very glad I found the issue....I was about to start pulling my hair out haha
I also would like to thank everyone that gave input and suggestions! It is very much appreciated!!!!!
- Joined
- May 28, 2001
May not have been the w/s.
The ac box to cowl is much more likely to be the source of the leak. Check the sealer at the edge of the box. It gets hard, cracks, leaks.
Looks like I will be pulling the heater box and resealing it! The sealer is all dried up and cracked with big chunks missing.
Thanks for that tip.......
My hopes are to drive and enjoy the car over the summer and this winter I am going to pull the motor and trans for a rebuild on the engine and reseal on the trans, and while it is out I plan on pulling the body and replacing bushings cleaning up the frame and repainting it then after I get the drive train back in sending it to my buddy for small rust repair and fresh paint.
I know I have alot of work ahead of me, but this car is staying where it's at....
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