striker_29
Senior Member
- Joined
- May 31, 2001
No do not take it to a dealer. They are clueless now on these cars for the most part. If you can find a good tr shop, that will be your best bet, but I wouldnt take it to the dealer. My02
87 GN Problems
- Thread starter Fat Kid
- Start date
Do not take it to the dealer, you will get the biggest shaft of your life. They will change every sensors and after that they will tell you you need a rebuild. Most of them have no clue about GNs. Be patient, this is how you learn. Like I said put up a post maybe asking for a GN shop around or near your city.
You can try reading across the coil pack with an ohmmeter . Any one of the three reading hig is a bad coil pack. I've been told anything over 12k ohms is a bad sign - mine was reading 11.5k ohms cold & hot it read over 13k ohms.
I still haven't been able to get a final word on type II advantages & disadvantages.
I still haven't been able to get a final word on type II advantages & disadvantages.
I figured as much on dealers. I won't be bothering with one of them any time soon.
The intake is torqued down well. The cam is still stock, it's a mostly stock, untouched car.
Where could I find someone with an ohmmeter? Is it worth just buying a new coil pack and seeing if that was it? It's proving a costly learning experience!
Thanks for the help!
The intake is torqued down well. The cam is still stock, it's a mostly stock, untouched car.
Where could I find someone with an ohmmeter? Is it worth just buying a new coil pack and seeing if that was it? It's proving a costly learning experience!
Thanks for the help!
striker_29
Senior Member
- Joined
- May 31, 2001
Well if you decide to buy one, check with redregalT in for sale forum. I think he usually has them for like 50 bucks. Anybody that deals with electronics should have an ohmmeter though. Did you try unplugging the cam sensor?
Start here: http://www.gnttype.org/maint/basics.html
Complete everything - also, check for cracked headers and a shorted/melted battery cable under the passenger-side exhaust header.
You also need to reset the IAC and set the TPS, both procedures are here. http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/maintenance/maintpage.html
Ohmmeter? Go to Radio Shack and get one for $20.00, you will need it to set the TPS.
And as said above, check ALL vacuum lines for cracks/wear, replace as necc.. *I* would replace them all anyway. These cars are getting old.
Complete everything - also, check for cracked headers and a shorted/melted battery cable under the passenger-side exhaust header.
You also need to reset the IAC and set the TPS, both procedures are here. http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/maintenance/maintpage.html
Ohmmeter? Go to Radio Shack and get one for $20.00, you will need it to set the TPS.
And as said above, check ALL vacuum lines for cracks/wear, replace as necc.. *I* would replace them all anyway. These cars are getting old.
The IAC and TPS are set to within .42-.44 at idle and IAC is 40-44 in Drive at idle.
I will try the cam sensor. Thanks for the tip on that, I have never adjusted it anyway so we'll see.
I will pick up an ohmmeter as well. I'm confused as to why I need it to set the TPS though. I always used the Scanmaster numbers in the past.
Headers and vacuum lines are in good shape, as are the ground wires. The battery is less than a year old and strong according to the Scanmaster.
Thanks for the help!
I will try the cam sensor. Thanks for the tip on that, I have never adjusted it anyway so we'll see.
I will pick up an ohmmeter as well. I'm confused as to why I need it to set the TPS though. I always used the Scanmaster numbers in the past.
Headers and vacuum lines are in good shape, as are the ground wires. The battery is less than a year old and strong according to the Scanmaster.
Thanks for the help!
laymond thomas
New Member
- Joined
- Mar 8, 2003
fat kid check your coil pack mounting bolts the small three bolts that attach it to the bracket also tighten the the bolts that attach the bracket to the engine kinda had the same problem can ran real bad poping stuttering the more gas you gave it the worst it got their are small grounds to the fire wall and to back of passenger head also to tighten bolts under coilpack you will have to take the coil bracket off intake and tighten bolts under coilpack its three bolts good luck.mylast1
very stupid (I know b/c I've done it), but you're sure the plug wires are set up in the right order? next step after that I'd do since you already did the coilpack would most likely be module. good to have a spare anyhoo. autozone/advance auto parts stock them.
BLACK6PACK
1 sec reaction King
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
Bad gas?
This sounds like a pretty good description of what a MAF can do when it is going bad. This is similar to what mine did when it died. I am assuming that you are still running the stock MAF? Can you swap in one from a friend that's local?
Just a thought...
The problem is not bad gas as it has been a problem for months. I double checked the plug wires just in case and no, they are in the right order. Would a bad MAF still work as far as AF readings on a Scanmaster and not trigger any malfunction codes? Wouldn't a bad MAF stumble when tapped? Thanks!
...mine didn't. I could beat the helk out of it with a screw driver (the so-called tap test), and it would not stumble at idle. However, as soon as I opened the throttle, the car would buck like you describe.
I'm not saying for sure that this is it, but it's easy to eliminate. MAF swaps are easy. Another thing to check is to see the wiring going to the MAF is OK - not pinched or loose.
I don't remember if my car threw a code when the MAF died or not. That was two years ago. I didn't have a scan tool at the time, so I can't say whether the MAF readings were good or not.
Good Luck,
Kevin Turch
Senior Member
- Joined
- Mar 8, 2002
Replace the MAF!
Mine did the same exact thing.
Mine did the same exact thing.
Thanks for the replies! The MAF sounds like a likely culprit, however, a few things have brought my concern.
1) Everything is normal with it on the Scanmaster. I still get AF counts and don't have any malfunction codes.
2) The tap test did nothing.
Also, what would be a good idea for an MAF replacement? Stock, LT1 or LS1? Thanks!
1) Everything is normal with it on the Scanmaster. I still get AF counts and don't have any malfunction codes.
2) The tap test did nothing.
Also, what would be a good idea for an MAF replacement? Stock, LT1 or LS1? Thanks!
turbot2496
New Member
- Joined
- Mar 16, 2003
STOP !!!!!!
Stop buying new parts and throwing them at the problem. Everyone in here has good intentions of trying to help you with your problem but you can't run out and buy everything suggested and try it. The only thing that usually results is frustration. What if the new coil pack you put on the car was bad in the box?? Your gonna run right out and buy more parts when you could still have a bad coil pack. Your best option as suggested is to find someone near you(within 100 miles) kind enough to help you out. You then need to try parts off of there car which is running correctly and that you know has all good working parts. Then when the problem is solved take em out to dinner and let us know what the problem was. Many of us have been where your at right now and unless you want an expensive bin full of spare parts you'll follow this advice. If not and your determined to go your path my best guess would also be a bad maf. Good Luck. I hope this helps.
Stop buying new parts and throwing them at the problem. Everyone in here has good intentions of trying to help you with your problem but you can't run out and buy everything suggested and try it. The only thing that usually results is frustration. What if the new coil pack you put on the car was bad in the box?? Your gonna run right out and buy more parts when you could still have a bad coil pack. Your best option as suggested is to find someone near you(within 100 miles) kind enough to help you out. You then need to try parts off of there car which is running correctly and that you know has all good working parts. Then when the problem is solved take em out to dinner and let us know what the problem was. Many of us have been where your at right now and unless you want an expensive bin full of spare parts you'll follow this advice. If not and your determined to go your path my best guess would also be a bad maf. Good Luck. I hope this helps.
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