87 Buick GN
- Thread starter The Joker
- Start date
OK, here we go. SOrry for the length, but I believe in being thorough.
I have personally inspected this vehicle and wanted to post an honest assessment and description of the vehicle to save potential buyers and the seller’s time in the future. It is meant to give my interpretation of the vehicle as a potential buyer and the reasons why I had to walk away from the purchase.
First off, back story on what I am looking for. I am in the market for an 86 or 87 (preferably 87) grand national GNX clone. I already have a high-dollar investment vehicle that I can’t do anything to without devaluing it, so that last thing I need is something that costs 60-115k that I can’t do anything to either. I want something that I can enjoy. My prerequisites for the vehicles I would consider would have to match as many of the following specs as possible.
GNX rear suspension or aftermarket GN upgraded suspension
GNX flares
GNX side vents (functional)
GNX dash
GNX rims
T-Top of astroroof car
All body bushings installed
All the braces installed
There are plenty of other things on my wish list, but I figure if I can get most of these in a package with the car, I will be ahead of the game. This would be the reason that I am here in Georgia from NJ to purchase this car. This car met all of the above criteria, except the body bushings and braces. But it did have an actual GNX suspension, and not a repro. So for me to turn it down was heart-breaking. I was planning on driving the car back.
Now the description:
Body
The body seemed pretty straight. All of the body panels lined up straight and did dot appear to have been replaced. There was only on visible dent (That I caught) in the car in the passenger rear quarter. It was probably about an inch in diameter and quarter inch deep. No creasing and might be able to be massaged out easily from trunk. The bottom of the entire car has been undercoated on the body below the paint. It is from the lower most body line to the bottom of car approximately 8-10 inches. Since I am fairly confident the factory did not do this, it was re-painted at some time in its life, my guess, at least 10 years ago from the condition of the car. The entire car has plenty of scratches and chips, especially in the front bumper. Some scratches could be wet-sanded out, but there is no point because the entire car needs a repaint. The driver’s rear bumper filler is cracked on the side and the other three felt a little brittle. The T-Top finish panel on the drivers side has rusted for approximately 3” diameter and has spread to the actual center bar of roof. Although none of the weather-stripping on the car was cracked and dry-rotted, I would replace at least the T-Top stripping because the tops fit was a little loose for my likings. The drivers top was loose once installed and I was able to rattle it up and down about ½ inch when locked. This might be able to be adjusted out. The GNX fender flares are the bolt-on type that do not require cutting of the fenders. They were all in good condition and the welting was adequate as well. There were a few screws missing on each of them, so they could be pulled away from the car. I was able to see that none of the wheel wells appeared rotted. There was no standard cracking at any of the pillar top spots, which was surprising since the car doesn’t have any of the bracing. The GNX vents are done correctly and have the relay relocation bracket and the inner fender cut-outs. The outer vents are not cracked, but the driver’s side has most of the paint peeling off of it and the passenger’s side is bubbling and will be following soon. Both of them could be easily pulled off and look to be mounted with some sort of silicon to hold them in place. Hood does not have the standard center dent from closing improperly. The grill was in good to great condition with the springs actually functioning. The GNX emblems front and rear are actual emblems and not decals, probably the reproductions that were available. Both doors rattled considerably when closed, and the driver door squeaked and felt tight. I deducted that the door deployment cam was rusted and could probably be greased to fix this. The passenger door didn’t feel like it shut entirely and appeared to be loose on the striker. Both power windows were retracted when I drove the car, and again it was hot and the car didn’t have AC, so I never tested their operation. Most likely worked, but needed the standard adjustments and anti-rattle procedures performed.
Interior
The driver’s seat outboard bolster is drastically misshapen. The cushion itself is probably not salvageable. All seat surfaces have small stains hear and there, especially the back seat. The headliner is non-existent, and the head liner foam is all dented up, as if someone had pushed there fingers all over it. The driver seat was power, even though the RPO label did not show it. Most of the adjustments did not work with it. And clicking can be heard when the switches were manipulated. The SMC alky control unit was screwed directly to the center console next to the driver’s right leg. The console was also misshaped from repeated removal. The console door was in surprisingly good shape, most likely replaced at some point in time. The AutoMeter tach is screwed directly into the climate control/radio bezel. I believe this would require and entire dash replacement to remedy. The rug needs to be replaced. There is an approximate 6” by 8” worn through spot in the passenger rear section of the carpet. The car has the GNX dash plaque on the passenger side, number 458. I wouldn’t be able to tell you if this was repro or not. Standard dash speaker cracks were present. The GNX dash is the VDO variant I believe, the red and green highlight in the boost gauge were not there and said GNX on it. The oil pressure seemed to function in reverse. Its idle pressure was the max value and under acceleration it descended down. The other dash gauges seemed to function, but I did not confirm any of the idiot lights. The large tach functioned as well as the dash tach. Did not confirm cruise functionality, but was told it works. Both column stalks had typical 100k mile + wear. I did not confirm any of the climate control functionality. Was told that the AC does not work, and since it was extremely hot out, I wouldn’t dare turn the heat on. Glove box fit and functionality was good. Interior top trim was not faded and only appeared to be missing screws hear and there. Driver’s t-top trim has one busted out screw hole.
Suspension and Steering
The car has an actual GNX suspension!! I asked the higher-ups in the GNX thread how to identify the real thing and it had the small numbers stamped on the outboard ear of the lower ladder bar connection. The number 220 was there. The rear cover was leaking slightly and probably just needs a re-sealing. All bushing looked good and showed no sign of dry-rot. I wouldn’t be able to identify aftermarket coils, but the rear had air bags. I did not confirm their functionality. The Schrader fill valves were mounted in the rear bumper pointing down. There was a separate valve for each bag. The rear sway bar looked aftermarket in size, but I didn’t measure to confirm. Again, all rear bushings looked in good condition. I had some mid-level gas shocks on it. I forget the brand but definitely not Konis or Bilsteins. The front suspension looked to be in adequate shape as well. All bushings appeared original, and showed no signs of dry-rot. Steering linkage looked good, but as I mention in the drivability section, I felt a noticeable play in the wheel. All bushings throughout the car seemed to be original, or old enough to look original. None of them had dry-rot that I discovered. The front wheels paint are peeling and could be identified as gold GTA wheels painted black and have the dimples. The rear wheels I could not find any visible peel on, but were very faded and had no dimples. All four rims had curb rack on the lips encompassing over half the diameter of each wheel. The rear tires are a bit worn and would need replacement, the fronts are OK.
Drivability
The drivability of the car was OK, It definitely felt like a 21-year-old high-mileage car. I was told the car has approximately 160k on the chassis and 60k on the motor. I forgot to note the odometer actual mileage. CarFax reports the car having 37K back in 2001 with no records since then. The steering wheel is off about 10 degrees when driving straight but the car does not appear to pull drastically in either direction. The steering wheel has considerable play in it. Feels like the pitman arm has play or the gear box needs adjustment/replacement. Also when turned to make a hard turn the pump squealed, might need fluid, but the reservoir was soaked and probably is a leak. The brakes felt a bit spongy, even for a PowerMaster, but they did stop the car with no noticeable pulling under standard driving conditions. The transmission shifts like a freight train hit you in the ass. I am familiar what the 200R4 feels like stock and with a shift kit in it. I am not familiar with high-stall non-lockup converters, which I was told that this car has. The car was said to have had recent trans work including this converter and some billet goodies. I would not be able to confirm if this is what is supposed to feel like, but I can tell you that you will spill your coffee during a shift under very little acceleration. Although I could not unleash its full potential where I took it for a drive, this car is quick. I did no WOT pushes or torque launches with it, but I was able to kick in the boost a few times cruising around. I can tell this car moves. I was not willing to push the girl on the first date to take her pants off when I knew that I would potentially need a thousand mile ride home afterwards. Plus, I was looking forward to feeling that for the first time on I-95 somewhere in North Carolina at about 4 in the morning.
Drivetrain
The engine compartment is quite dirty, and is in serious need of a power wash and detailing. Nothing a Saturday afternoon under the hood with a few cleaning products wouldn’t handle. There was also foliage brush hear and there, which is typical of a car that obviously has sat for a bit. The engine itself I’m told has a roller top end and other miscellaneous upgrades. I was told that the outfit that did the motor is from FLA, KDK Performance, and they could be contacted to get the exact specs of the rebuild. Here are the mods that I could identify right away. Kenny Bell plenum, front mount intercooler, non-stock turbo (I was told a TE-49) but not familiar how to identify. Cold-air intake, which routed through the normal charcoal canister location to accommodate the K&N barrel filter down below. Didn’t ID the injectors. There was a non-functioning liquid filled Fuel pressure gauge with braided line hanging off the fuel rail. Intercooler fins had very slight fin bend hear and there, but nothing to worry about. Throttle body pre-heat lines were missing. No valve cover leaks, and headers looked pretty good with a single weld touch up on each side. Manual ATR wastegate. Silicon plug wires. Aftermarket valve covers with dual breathers on passenger side and single on drivers. The AC lines and drier are not original. SMC alky kit, dual nozzle. The reservoir and pump for the kit were missing and the braided line was plugged to prevent vacuum leak. The trans was missing the flexplate cover and was a bit soaked. It looked like the motor probably has a rear main leak. The exhaust was in good condition with no rot. As mentioned before real GNX suspension. The car has Posi according to RPO. I know that there are plenty of other mods that I am missing and or forgot.
Reason why I did not buy
As someone who wants a fun street car, it is too much work and money to get what I am going for with this car at the original negotiated price. I attempted to salvage the purchase by renegotiating the price to one I was more comfortable with due to the difference in the car’s condition vs. what I was told about it. Once we renegotiated, I was informed that the title was not available today and could be mailed to me. Now keep in mind that I informed the seller numerous times that I was planning to drive the car home. I specifically asked this question repeatedly about the status of the title and was assured it was no problem. For this situation to happen is nothing short of blatant misrepresentation.
Conclusion
This car is for the track guys, or at the right price, an extensive restoration. The car was clearly built to go and has a lot of bucks in the mods. I don’t know how much longer she is going to last, but I was not willing to roll the dice. Now I am going to give the seller the benefit of the doubt about the reporting of the condition of the car, after all everyone has a different definition of “interior you could eat off of”, but the title situation is inexcusable. Would you hand someone cash and get in a car and drive it out of state without a title? There is nothing stopping them from reporting it stolen, and you would have no proof to the fact. My advice. Be very, very careful if you intend to consider this one.
Advice to seller
Come to terms with what the car actually is, and price it accordingly. Do not misrepresent it and you will sell it.
Other Notes
The pictures originally posted for the vehicle on this thread are very outdated and do not represent the vehicle’s current state. This was admitted by seller.
CarFax for this car shows all FLA activity with I believe 2 owners there. And the trail on the car ends in 2001 with 37k miles being the last reported mileage. I was told the car had two other owners in GA, The current owner and 1 previous owner in GA that the current owner purchased the car from. None of the GA activity shows on CarFax report. There are no accidents, or title problems, or odometer discrepancies reported either.
The title as of 7-8-08 was not available for this car. If you intend to buy it, make sure you clarify what you expect before traveling. I specifically asked this question repeatedly before traveling and was admittedly mislead.
I have personally inspected this vehicle and wanted to post an honest assessment and description of the vehicle to save potential buyers and the seller’s time in the future. It is meant to give my interpretation of the vehicle as a potential buyer and the reasons why I had to walk away from the purchase.
First off, back story on what I am looking for. I am in the market for an 86 or 87 (preferably 87) grand national GNX clone. I already have a high-dollar investment vehicle that I can’t do anything to without devaluing it, so that last thing I need is something that costs 60-115k that I can’t do anything to either. I want something that I can enjoy. My prerequisites for the vehicles I would consider would have to match as many of the following specs as possible.
GNX rear suspension or aftermarket GN upgraded suspension
GNX flares
GNX side vents (functional)
GNX dash
GNX rims
T-Top of astroroof car
All body bushings installed
All the braces installed
There are plenty of other things on my wish list, but I figure if I can get most of these in a package with the car, I will be ahead of the game. This would be the reason that I am here in Georgia from NJ to purchase this car. This car met all of the above criteria, except the body bushings and braces. But it did have an actual GNX suspension, and not a repro. So for me to turn it down was heart-breaking. I was planning on driving the car back.
Now the description:
Body
The body seemed pretty straight. All of the body panels lined up straight and did dot appear to have been replaced. There was only on visible dent (That I caught) in the car in the passenger rear quarter. It was probably about an inch in diameter and quarter inch deep. No creasing and might be able to be massaged out easily from trunk. The bottom of the entire car has been undercoated on the body below the paint. It is from the lower most body line to the bottom of car approximately 8-10 inches. Since I am fairly confident the factory did not do this, it was re-painted at some time in its life, my guess, at least 10 years ago from the condition of the car. The entire car has plenty of scratches and chips, especially in the front bumper. Some scratches could be wet-sanded out, but there is no point because the entire car needs a repaint. The driver’s rear bumper filler is cracked on the side and the other three felt a little brittle. The T-Top finish panel on the drivers side has rusted for approximately 3” diameter and has spread to the actual center bar of roof. Although none of the weather-stripping on the car was cracked and dry-rotted, I would replace at least the T-Top stripping because the tops fit was a little loose for my likings. The drivers top was loose once installed and I was able to rattle it up and down about ½ inch when locked. This might be able to be adjusted out. The GNX fender flares are the bolt-on type that do not require cutting of the fenders. They were all in good condition and the welting was adequate as well. There were a few screws missing on each of them, so they could be pulled away from the car. I was able to see that none of the wheel wells appeared rotted. There was no standard cracking at any of the pillar top spots, which was surprising since the car doesn’t have any of the bracing. The GNX vents are done correctly and have the relay relocation bracket and the inner fender cut-outs. The outer vents are not cracked, but the driver’s side has most of the paint peeling off of it and the passenger’s side is bubbling and will be following soon. Both of them could be easily pulled off and look to be mounted with some sort of silicon to hold them in place. Hood does not have the standard center dent from closing improperly. The grill was in good to great condition with the springs actually functioning. The GNX emblems front and rear are actual emblems and not decals, probably the reproductions that were available. Both doors rattled considerably when closed, and the driver door squeaked and felt tight. I deducted that the door deployment cam was rusted and could probably be greased to fix this. The passenger door didn’t feel like it shut entirely and appeared to be loose on the striker. Both power windows were retracted when I drove the car, and again it was hot and the car didn’t have AC, so I never tested their operation. Most likely worked, but needed the standard adjustments and anti-rattle procedures performed.
Interior
The driver’s seat outboard bolster is drastically misshapen. The cushion itself is probably not salvageable. All seat surfaces have small stains hear and there, especially the back seat. The headliner is non-existent, and the head liner foam is all dented up, as if someone had pushed there fingers all over it. The driver seat was power, even though the RPO label did not show it. Most of the adjustments did not work with it. And clicking can be heard when the switches were manipulated. The SMC alky control unit was screwed directly to the center console next to the driver’s right leg. The console was also misshaped from repeated removal. The console door was in surprisingly good shape, most likely replaced at some point in time. The AutoMeter tach is screwed directly into the climate control/radio bezel. I believe this would require and entire dash replacement to remedy. The rug needs to be replaced. There is an approximate 6” by 8” worn through spot in the passenger rear section of the carpet. The car has the GNX dash plaque on the passenger side, number 458. I wouldn’t be able to tell you if this was repro or not. Standard dash speaker cracks were present. The GNX dash is the VDO variant I believe, the red and green highlight in the boost gauge were not there and said GNX on it. The oil pressure seemed to function in reverse. Its idle pressure was the max value and under acceleration it descended down. The other dash gauges seemed to function, but I did not confirm any of the idiot lights. The large tach functioned as well as the dash tach. Did not confirm cruise functionality, but was told it works. Both column stalks had typical 100k mile + wear. I did not confirm any of the climate control functionality. Was told that the AC does not work, and since it was extremely hot out, I wouldn’t dare turn the heat on. Glove box fit and functionality was good. Interior top trim was not faded and only appeared to be missing screws hear and there. Driver’s t-top trim has one busted out screw hole.
Suspension and Steering
The car has an actual GNX suspension!! I asked the higher-ups in the GNX thread how to identify the real thing and it had the small numbers stamped on the outboard ear of the lower ladder bar connection. The number 220 was there. The rear cover was leaking slightly and probably just needs a re-sealing. All bushing looked good and showed no sign of dry-rot. I wouldn’t be able to identify aftermarket coils, but the rear had air bags. I did not confirm their functionality. The Schrader fill valves were mounted in the rear bumper pointing down. There was a separate valve for each bag. The rear sway bar looked aftermarket in size, but I didn’t measure to confirm. Again, all rear bushings looked in good condition. I had some mid-level gas shocks on it. I forget the brand but definitely not Konis or Bilsteins. The front suspension looked to be in adequate shape as well. All bushings appeared original, and showed no signs of dry-rot. Steering linkage looked good, but as I mention in the drivability section, I felt a noticeable play in the wheel. All bushings throughout the car seemed to be original, or old enough to look original. None of them had dry-rot that I discovered. The front wheels paint are peeling and could be identified as gold GTA wheels painted black and have the dimples. The rear wheels I could not find any visible peel on, but were very faded and had no dimples. All four rims had curb rack on the lips encompassing over half the diameter of each wheel. The rear tires are a bit worn and would need replacement, the fronts are OK.
Drivability
The drivability of the car was OK, It definitely felt like a 21-year-old high-mileage car. I was told the car has approximately 160k on the chassis and 60k on the motor. I forgot to note the odometer actual mileage. CarFax reports the car having 37K back in 2001 with no records since then. The steering wheel is off about 10 degrees when driving straight but the car does not appear to pull drastically in either direction. The steering wheel has considerable play in it. Feels like the pitman arm has play or the gear box needs adjustment/replacement. Also when turned to make a hard turn the pump squealed, might need fluid, but the reservoir was soaked and probably is a leak. The brakes felt a bit spongy, even for a PowerMaster, but they did stop the car with no noticeable pulling under standard driving conditions. The transmission shifts like a freight train hit you in the ass. I am familiar what the 200R4 feels like stock and with a shift kit in it. I am not familiar with high-stall non-lockup converters, which I was told that this car has. The car was said to have had recent trans work including this converter and some billet goodies. I would not be able to confirm if this is what is supposed to feel like, but I can tell you that you will spill your coffee during a shift under very little acceleration. Although I could not unleash its full potential where I took it for a drive, this car is quick. I did no WOT pushes or torque launches with it, but I was able to kick in the boost a few times cruising around. I can tell this car moves. I was not willing to push the girl on the first date to take her pants off when I knew that I would potentially need a thousand mile ride home afterwards. Plus, I was looking forward to feeling that for the first time on I-95 somewhere in North Carolina at about 4 in the morning.
Drivetrain
The engine compartment is quite dirty, and is in serious need of a power wash and detailing. Nothing a Saturday afternoon under the hood with a few cleaning products wouldn’t handle. There was also foliage brush hear and there, which is typical of a car that obviously has sat for a bit. The engine itself I’m told has a roller top end and other miscellaneous upgrades. I was told that the outfit that did the motor is from FLA, KDK Performance, and they could be contacted to get the exact specs of the rebuild. Here are the mods that I could identify right away. Kenny Bell plenum, front mount intercooler, non-stock turbo (I was told a TE-49) but not familiar how to identify. Cold-air intake, which routed through the normal charcoal canister location to accommodate the K&N barrel filter down below. Didn’t ID the injectors. There was a non-functioning liquid filled Fuel pressure gauge with braided line hanging off the fuel rail. Intercooler fins had very slight fin bend hear and there, but nothing to worry about. Throttle body pre-heat lines were missing. No valve cover leaks, and headers looked pretty good with a single weld touch up on each side. Manual ATR wastegate. Silicon plug wires. Aftermarket valve covers with dual breathers on passenger side and single on drivers. The AC lines and drier are not original. SMC alky kit, dual nozzle. The reservoir and pump for the kit were missing and the braided line was plugged to prevent vacuum leak. The trans was missing the flexplate cover and was a bit soaked. It looked like the motor probably has a rear main leak. The exhaust was in good condition with no rot. As mentioned before real GNX suspension. The car has Posi according to RPO. I know that there are plenty of other mods that I am missing and or forgot.
Reason why I did not buy
As someone who wants a fun street car, it is too much work and money to get what I am going for with this car at the original negotiated price. I attempted to salvage the purchase by renegotiating the price to one I was more comfortable with due to the difference in the car’s condition vs. what I was told about it. Once we renegotiated, I was informed that the title was not available today and could be mailed to me. Now keep in mind that I informed the seller numerous times that I was planning to drive the car home. I specifically asked this question repeatedly about the status of the title and was assured it was no problem. For this situation to happen is nothing short of blatant misrepresentation.
Conclusion
This car is for the track guys, or at the right price, an extensive restoration. The car was clearly built to go and has a lot of bucks in the mods. I don’t know how much longer she is going to last, but I was not willing to roll the dice. Now I am going to give the seller the benefit of the doubt about the reporting of the condition of the car, after all everyone has a different definition of “interior you could eat off of”, but the title situation is inexcusable. Would you hand someone cash and get in a car and drive it out of state without a title? There is nothing stopping them from reporting it stolen, and you would have no proof to the fact. My advice. Be very, very careful if you intend to consider this one.
Advice to seller
Come to terms with what the car actually is, and price it accordingly. Do not misrepresent it and you will sell it.
Other Notes
The pictures originally posted for the vehicle on this thread are very outdated and do not represent the vehicle’s current state. This was admitted by seller.
CarFax for this car shows all FLA activity with I believe 2 owners there. And the trail on the car ends in 2001 with 37k miles being the last reported mileage. I was told the car had two other owners in GA, The current owner and 1 previous owner in GA that the current owner purchased the car from. None of the GA activity shows on CarFax report. There are no accidents, or title problems, or odometer discrepancies reported either.
The title as of 7-8-08 was not available for this car. If you intend to buy it, make sure you clarify what you expect before traveling. I specifically asked this question repeatedly before traveling and was admittedly mislead.
TR Custom Parts
Mark Hueffman - Owner
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
Nice write-up!
Thank You, I appreciate it. I had a bit of time in the hotel room last night, and thought I should get everything down while it was still fresh in my memory.
Yeah, when I went back to the post last night I kinda figured that one myself. I had orgianlly thought that you were answered back in a PM or e-mail message, since that is how I was communicating with him.
Excellent write up and representation of the car.the only things that I can see that you missed were the Pass side rear Fender Flare was cracked on the Inside,Actually broken up pretty good...One of the Doors had rust along the Inside edge,Dont remember which off hand,Think it was the pass side...car was covered with oil from front to back with oil underneath(maybe cleaned up some after I was there).trans fluid leaking where the metal line turned to rubber going to the trans cooler.
The title issue goes back a while also,I was told the papers were filed for the new title,And that it was on the way.This was about 1 month ago.
I didnt even drive the car,after looking it over...I passed on it without even making any other type of offer on it.
I should of posted up earlier,I possibly could of saved somebody else a trip out...For that i apologize.I wasted $800 and a day to see this car,And it wasnt close to what I expected to see.
I Meant to post up,But have been so busy with family stuff lately,I just kind of forgot about it.
shawn
The title issue goes back a while also,I was told the papers were filed for the new title,And that it was on the way.This was about 1 month ago.
I didnt even drive the car,after looking it over...I passed on it without even making any other type of offer on it.
I should of posted up earlier,I possibly could of saved somebody else a trip out...For that i apologize.I wasted $800 and a day to see this car,And it wasnt close to what I expected to see.
I Meant to post up,But have been so busy with family stuff lately,I just kind of forgot about it.
shawn
Thanks!
Thanks theMonch,
I believe I was next in line if you passed, and I will definately be passing based on your HONEST appraisal. I knew something wasn't adding up here based on his description. I'm sorry you had to go through this, but I definately appreciate it.
Thanks theMonch,
I believe I was next in line if you passed, and I will definately be passing based on your HONEST appraisal. I knew something wasn't adding up here based on his description. I'm sorry you had to go through this, but I definately appreciate it.
cldTurbo, thanks, and glad I can save someone the anguish. The sad part is if the seller would have been honest, I would have been prepared to take the car at a resonable price and showed up with a truck and trailer. After all, it did meet most of my criteria for whatIam looking for.
Lessons here for sellers..
First, be honest, we are going to see the car, and check it out thoroughly.(Unless your last name is Kirban) If you lie about something simple, the trust is gone. Now you are suspect.
Secondly, just because someone can sell their low-mileage, garage-kept from day one, super-sweet specimen in the high 10's or 20's does not meen that you can sell your 12 owner, clearly abused, no-receipts beater for 17k, or even 12k, or whatever rediculous price you have in your head.
Lessons here for sellers..
First, be honest, we are going to see the car, and check it out thoroughly.(Unless your last name is Kirban) If you lie about something simple, the trust is gone. Now you are suspect.
Secondly, just because someone can sell their low-mileage, garage-kept from day one, super-sweet specimen in the high 10's or 20's does not meen that you can sell your 12 owner, clearly abused, no-receipts beater for 17k, or even 12k, or whatever rediculous price you have in your head.
Anyone considering this one...
approach this deal like you are buying the car from the guy who is sleeping with your wife/girlfriend. You don't like him, you don't trust him, but you think he's OK because you have stuff in common. :smile:
:biggrin:..Thats a good one..:biggrin:
Did you read any of the above posts?
Yes I did. Sounds like the GN is worth what the two parties agreed on. It's just missing the title. Once he gets the title back, it's gonna be a good deal for someone.
_C
no, you were informed that the bank had misplaced my title. second, you had EVERY chance to ask for pics BEFORE you came all the way down here and i sent every pic you asked for no matter the location. some of your write up is accurate, but for the most part i suggest people come and see the car for themselves. really...a new paint job? wtf...as i said, i welcome anyone who would like to come see the car.
I don't want to back-and-forth with you on this. I wrote up my description very accurately and tried to do so with objectivity towards other potential buyers in mind.
You lie about the title situation. I asked you when we first talked about the car and I asked again from North Carolina to make sure you would not forget it at our meeting spot. You had both opportunities to tell me the truth about the situation. You didn't, therefore you are still sitting on the car. Had you told me the truth, I would have delayed the trip to see the car until the title was clear and available. And I would have bought the car.
You still haven't admitted to the fact that you still dont have the title.
Now it was "the bank that misplaced" it. When you were feeding me a story down in Savannah when I had already agreed to buy the car, you said "it was stolen with your wallet out of your other car". Stop lying and get your story straight. When I asked why you didn't tell me about it, you had said you were afraid to since the other buyer from Jersey had flown down and subsequently walked away, for the same reason.
I am business man, have been for the last 15 years. I want something, I buy it. It's that simple. You had the opportunity to offload the car to someone that genuinely wanted it, and you blew it by lying. What did you think, that I would actually give you money and drive away with the car with no title.
Like I mentioned before, stop mis-representing the car and you will sell it.
Get the title, prove that you have it, price the car accordingly and it will go.
Hell, I might even buy it if was cheap enough and I was assured you had a clear title.
Similar threads
