83 Turbo in Bugeye Sprite - Questions

[Turbobug]

Just squeezed a 1983?? Buick Turbo V6 231 engine in a 1959 Bugeye Sprite.:biggrin: (photo)This is my first Buick turbo engine project and I'm having some problems with the finishing touches. I've been reading the threads in Before Black and got a lot of tips, but still am in need of help:
1. Where does the screw in knock sensor go? Intake manifold? If so, which hole?
2.There are two wires coming out of the electronic "TURBO" box on the knock sensor set-up. One is large and pink...the other smaller and green. (Photo) I'm guessing the pink is the + wire. is the green the ground? Don't want to fry it since they seem hard to come by.
3.What's the best position for the distributor? (photo) Seems like the only place that allows for adjustment without hitting something is vac adv out by the fan.
4.There are more intake manifold openings on the front than I know what to do with. (photo) Which ones are a must use and which can be blocked?
5. Related question - Where does the second small pump outlet hose go to...the intake??
6. Carb - Which of the 4 hose fittings is for the vac advance? Can the other 3 be blocked off? (photo)
7. Whats the carb hose fitting on the back for? What about the hook shaped carb fitting near the top driver's sdie just above the carb fuel inlet?
8.Vac hose from TH 350 Trans. What's the best place to hook in? Carb? Intake?
9. Engine did not include timing marks. I think later marks were made of plastic and inserted in 3 raised holes. Is this a salvage item or is there an aftermarket source?? Dip stick tube missing... how long is tube?
10. What's the sensor at the front of the exhaust manifold on passenger side for?
11. Where do I find an exhaust fitting (gasket/ downpipe) for the turbo exhaust side? Looks like a special item to me.
Thanks for any help. I'm almost ready to fire this death trap up and hit the track.

 

[charlief1]

i personally love British cars. The 83 engine should have a spot at the back just above the bell housing mount where the knock sensor mounts. I'll comment on the rest tomorow after I get off work. Nice car!

 

[WarWagon]

Nice car and Engine.
That is an oxygen sensor in the passenger manifold.

 

[charlief1]

http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/before-black-non-sfi-tech/296382-carb-info-turbo-design.html

This should help you figure out the carb a little better.

BEFORE BLACK - Turbo Notes

And this should help you figure out the box.

 

[Turbobug]

Thanks. I checked the rear of the engine and found a threaded hole on the horizontal engine cast to the left of the engine number. The knock sensor threaded in. It sits vertically. Sound right? The harness doesn't exactly match up, but that's an easy fix. P.S. Glad you got a job. Lots of folks around here (PA) are still lookin.

 

[charlief1]

Thanks. The original knock sensor is suposed to go in the intake manifold but that's only for the first 2 years. It was moved to the block after 80 so you need to make the harness a little longer. If you'd like a little faster spool on the turbo click on the second link in my sig for an idea I've been working on. Just changing the exducer side will provide for the better spool but doing the complete turbo will make that little sucker fly like a rocket.

 

[WarWagon]

Ah ha, Where in PA are you?
I'm in the center of the universe and it's close to everything being in West Virginia.

 

[Turbobug]

I checked out the detailed plumbing diagram and read the turbo carb thread. I didn't get any of the check valves or PEVRs with the engine and won't be installing any pollution control crap so my plumbing should be simple. I do have a non-electronic turbo carb installed (wish I would have seen your modification process before spending big $s on the rebuilt carb). So, I guess at a minimum I need a PEVR and a check valve (even though Freddie's post looks like he only uses a check valve). So, the line goes from the center (Power Valve) tube on the carb to the PEVR to a check valve to a vacuum souce on the carb (one of the other ports). Is that right?

 

[Turbobug]

I checked that out earlier. Your prototype will be an inspiration for us "summer in the scrapyard"-"winter in the garage" folks. My short-term goal is to get this badboy running smoothly without detonation before winter and make a couple of runs around the lake (no plates). That will give me the will to fire up the wood stove, cut out rust, weld patches and hammer and dolly the many dents this winter. Your helping achieve that goal with your great information!!

 

[Turbobug]

Amish country - Lititz North of Lancaster. Raised in Pittsburgh, the other center of the universe. I experienced one of your winter road closings on the Blue Ridge "Parkway" in 1967. I was trying to get home for Christmas leave from Pensacola. After the famous "hairpin turn" that main road closes Dec 1. Got to do the turn twice!!

 

[Turbobug]

Thanks.

 

[charlief1]

I checked out the detailed plumbing diagram and read the turbo carb thread. I didn't get any of the check valves or PEVRs with the engine and won't be installing any pollution control crap so my plumbing should be simple. I do have a non-electronic turbo carb installed (wish I would have seen your modification process before spending big $s on the rebuilt carb). So, I guess at a minimum I need a PEVR and a check valve (even though Freddie's post looks like he only uses a check valve). So, the line goes from the center (Power Valve) tube on the carb to the PEVR to a check valve to a vacuum souce on the carb (one of the other ports). Is that right?

You can get away without a PEVR valve if you have to but you have to have something to cut the boost/vac signal to the power valve or it will either go full rich or full lean when you get off the gas. The port on the center under the fuel inlet is the power valve port. The tube further from the center is ported vac and you could connect the vac advance to it. Some where on here is a link to another site and the guy was smart enough to figure out how to take an electric valve off an import to sub for the PEVR. Aj or Adam will probibly post it before I find it though.

I checked that out earlier. Your prototype will be an inspiration for us "summer in the scrapyard"-"winter in the garage" folks. My short-term goal is to get this badboy running smoothly without detonation before winter and make a couple of runs around the lake (no plates). That will give me the will to fire up the wood stove, cut out rust, weld patches and hammer and dolly the many dents this winter. Your helping achieve that goal with your great information!!

If you get everything hooked up you could disconnect the waste gate and run the car as an NA long enough to drive it a little. This will allow you to see how she feels and make sure everything is good before you try to boost it. Make sure that if you leave the waste gate hooked up that you make it adjustable first though and run low boost on it as well as 91 or better octain.

Amish country - Lititz North of Lancaster. Raised in Pittsburgh, the other center of the universe. I experienced one of your winter road closings on the Blue Ridge "Parkway" in 1967. I was trying to get home for Christmas leave from Pensacola. After the famous "hairpin turn" that main road closes Dec 1. Got to do the turn twice!!

I do remember shoofly pie from my youth. MMMMMMM Good stuff for sure. Now if only we had Hogies, shoofly pie, and tasty kakes down here I'd be in heaven. LOL

 

[Turbobug]

Great information! Sounds like you are a Yankee moved south! Tastee cakes are one of the few "foods" that claim no natural ingedients..all additives, arificial colors and flavors with no nutritional value! No wonder we all love em. I'll look forward to info on the PEVR foreign substitute.
I relooked at the front of the intake manifold. I think the main pump inlet and smaller hooked tube connection will be sufficient to cool the engine. I plan to block off the heater outlet and smaller mystery outlet on the pump and the two mystery inlets on the intake. Can't find any info on their use.

 

[charlief1]

Not transplanted, moved back. Was born farther from the Mason Dixon line then most southerners but still in the US thank God. My father worked for thesoil conservation service and we transfered north for a better job. Glad I don't live there now though. Here's the link to Pete's Buick and he has the info you need to make it work.

petesbuick.html

Look over the entire site and save it for sure. He has some interesting ideas and the info is well worth reading several times over.

 

[dr_frankenstein]

thats just super bitchen man...

curious, whats your curb weight?

A.j.

 

[charlief1]

If I remember right it should weigh between 1200 to 1400 lbs but I may be off slightly Aj.

 

[dr_frankenstein]

If I remember right it should weigh between 1200 to 1400 lbs but I may be off slightly Aj.

geezus! should easily be something scary at that weight!

A.j.

 

[charlief1]

Considering that the original motor made something like 45 HP I think it will be a blast myself.

 

[Turbobug]

Yep. The original engine was a 948 cc (58 ci) and it pumped out about 48 hp and 52 Ft Lb of torque. The curb weight was about 1500 lbs. The car I got was already cut up for dirt track racing Not sure what it had in the engine compartment. It started out with unibody-like construction but the butchering crew cut a lot of it away and welded in BIG steel beams to stiffen it up. The floor boards were 1/8 inch plate steel and sat 5 inched higher than the original floor. I rerouted and downsized the frame, lowered the floor (so my head won't stick out higher than the windshield & roll bar!!!!! Yikes!) and boxed in the firewall and foot wells. After squeezing in the V6, there was just enough space in the driver's well for a brake and throttle pedal (with the left foot placed under the brake). My right leg will be getting a little heat from the exhaust manifold. After all of that added steel, V6 engine and TH350 trans, the car sits higher than stock. Those little 4 bangers and four speed trans were heavy. I'm also going with a fiberglass hood, so some more pounds will fall. The drive shaft is about 1 foot long since the transmission and I share the seating area. It has a GM rearend. I noticed only one tire has the rubber almost completly burnt off so I switched out the open differential for a Positraction so I can burn em both at once. I also upgraded the brakes by putting discs up front to replace the stock drums. Now all I have to do is finish the ignition wiring, rear brake plumbing and fuel pump and I'm ready to run (without the Turbo --- still have to figure out the control module and Petesbuick setup). Got to hurry to beat the snow!!
I had my 69 Austin Healey Sprite (Judson Supercharged 1275 cc) out today with the top down. Might be it for this year!!

 

[charlief1]

Post a pic of the Sprite for us. Like I said, I love brittish cars.