700r4 burned up a bearing, how much of a rebuild needed?

[Warrant]

after having problems with my 700r4, i finally drained fluid and dropped the pan. fluid was very dark black, and lots of metal in the pan. Pulled the tranny and tore it down -- the bearing that was sitting inside that rear reaction carrier disintegrated, which im guessing de-stabilized that whole planetary system - all the pinions would wobble and everything was burned black.

obviously everything in that system has to be replaced, but everything else looks fine. looks like the filter did a decent job nothing scratched up, just a black dust under the valve body, servos, accums, in the pump, etc.

tranny has less than 2000 miles on rebuild, my buddy put kevlar everything in it so i think ill get new clutches?

but do I have to get new seals and everything? only reason i ask is because i would have to take the case somewhere to get the L/R piston out and have those seals replaced since i dont have the time to come up with a way to get it out and fight with it.

I air checked it and it does not leak. But would it be worth it to pull the piston(S) out and clean behind there?

this is getting long but on more quesiton. the owner said he put a different spring pack in for the L/R spring assembly. he said he thought it might be causing a 1-2 flair/drag. Im thinking he might be talking about the 3-4 springs cause I haven't seen anything on changing the L/R's. If so is there anything he could of messed up there and cause the 1-2 flair?

Thanks!

 

[darkhorsebob]

You definitely need to remove the l/r piston and clean the case very well. I would disassemble everything and clean all the parts. Check the pump bushing and replace the pump seal.
Most importantly clean your transmission cooler or bypass it with a new auxiliary cooler or this might happen again.

 

[GNeric]

Back before I started building automatics, I knew a guy who would air test the L/R piston and if it didn't leak, he would run it as it. Always bit him in the butt. Stuff likes to hide in the little spots you can't see and find it's way to governor valves and body valves. Just like darkhorsebob says, check the pump bushing and replace seal. The L/R spring compressor is not too expensive and well worth it and you can use it in the TH350.

 

[Warrant]

ok defiantly will.

something tells me ill be doing this again sometime, might as well get the tool. my second time doing this and my 4th automatic tranny build.

can anyone address the springs for the L/R?

Also what do you guys here recommended for the 3/4 clutch? the z-pak?

 

[GNeric]

The retainer for the L/R should have all the springs captured in the metal. Early 700's and TH350's could have the little raised portions for the springs to sit on and the retainer would be flat. During compression the springs may slide out sideways and bind up the low piston or chew up the aluminum. Never heard of people changing those springs for a flare or drag problem. Especially if it is always in OD or D position. Only the low roller holds and not the clutches. I have heard of the 3-4 piston springs being changed out but I have never had to use that part of the kits. I use the factory 5 release springs around the outer edge of the 3-4 plate and I have quite a few trannies out there that are high reving and they have been in service for quite a few years. One in particular is still going strong after more than 8 years. I have not used the Zpack yet so I cannot comment on those at this time.

 

[chris718]

be sure there isnt any junk in the drilled lube hole in the output shaft this will restrect oil to the rear carrier and bearing.also if you arent running the trans in lock up cooler flow is restricted severely at low throttle angles.if it has no lock up be sure to use a non luck up valve to correct oil flow into the converter,out to the cooler and back to the lube circuit.

 

[Warrant]

another question:

I bought some:

boost valves .500 and .296
a transgo priming spring and hardened rings for the pump
an updated pressure regulator valve
a hardened stator shaft

for a 2004r, would these swap into the 700r4?

 

[chris718]

the boost valves and rings will fit