4.1 Questions.

[ndp]

Hi my name is Nate and I'm doing some research on a Land Speed Racing motor build. Engine will never see road use purely racing engine only. Requirements for my engine class are below 260.999ci, no nitrous, alky, or meth, no turbo's/superchargers, and no EFI. Basically carbs and mechanical fuel injection only. Most people who are competitive in this engine class are running destroked Chevy V8's, I on the other hand am wanting to go a little different route. In order to take a record in my engine class I'm going to need to put down about 550rwhp. I do have the option of tuning for several different octanes of race gas, both leaded and unleaded. Now on to the questions.

1. Are these kind of hp numbers achievable on a N/A 4.1? If so any advice on how to get there will be met with great appreciation (I know it will be expensive).

2. Will a production block with girdle and billet mains hold with this kind of hp for 2.5 to 3 miles of WOT?

3. If these hp numbers are achievable and if the block will hold, induction (manifold) is seems to be the biggest limiting factor. Are there any manifold options out there besides MFI, such as a Kinsler system, or custom sheet metal manifolds?

Obviously I do know that I'm looking at an all forged rotating assembly, custom high compression pistons and very specific machine work. If this is at all possible I would like to keep an engine build as far south of $7,000 as possible. Feel free to post and or PM me with any questions/suggestions that you guys have.

Thanks,
Nate

 

[charlief1]

To make the numbers you want and keep the engine together you'll need to go Stage II engine. The factory heads and block won't get you there.

 

[unboostedV6]

To make 550 rwhp, you'll need ~ 650 at the crank. With 260 cid limit, you're talking 2.5 hp/ci and around 9500 - 10000 rpm. While this can be done with Stage 2 Buick pieces, I'd seriously consider a splayed valve Chevy combo. That way you could bore up to 4.185" for much better airflow and less piston speed. Head over to 1320techtalk.com and hit up Adger Smith for advice. I also believe you'd need to triple your budget.
GB

 

[ndp]

After talking with some different people I think I'm going to have to go the V8 route. As much as I hate to see another race car with a Chevy V8 in it, it is the most economical way to get where I want to go. Living in the center of NASCAR country speed parts are fairly easy and cheap with the right connections. Maybe after this project I can put together a blow through carb set up V6 and compete in the blown class.

Nate

 

[BeanSS]

Welll you could put a Buick V8 in there if it a make you feel better!

 

[charlief1]

Welll you could put a Buick V8 in there if it a make you feel better!

Now I like that idea myself. A nice 455 or 350 Buick would be more than enough power to get you there.:biggrin:

 

[mat231v6]

if you do put a 455 in you have to talk to greg gessler he owns gessler head porting he has a gs that runs in FAST it runs in the high tens he is one of the best at porting 455 heads. he even has a few welding techniques he does to the exhaust manifolds to make them flow better.

 

[WarWagon]

Hi my name is Nate and I'm doing some research on a Land Speed Racing motor build. Engine will never see road use purely racing engine only. Requirements for my engine class are below 260.999ci, no nitrous, alky, or meth, no turbo's/superchargers, and no EFI. Basically carbs and mechanical fuel injection only. Most people who are competitive in this engine class are running destroked Chevy V8's, I on the other hand am wanting to go a little different route. In order to take a record in my engine class I'm going to need to put down about 550rwhp. I do have the option of tuning for several different octanes of race gas, both leaded and unleaded. Now on to the questions.

1. Are these kind of hp numbers achievable on a N/A 4.1? If so any advice on how to get there will be met with great appreciation (I know it will be expensive).

2. Will a production block with girdle and billet mains hold with this kind of hp for 2.5 to 3 miles of WOT?

3. If these hp numbers are achievable and if the block will hold, induction (manifold) is seems to be the biggest limiting factor. Are there any manifold options out there besides MFI, such as a Kinsler system, or custom sheet metal manifolds?

Obviously I do know that I'm looking at an all forged rotating assembly, custom high compression pistons and very specific machine work. If this is at all possible I would like to keep an engine build as far south of $7,000 as possible. Feel free to post and or PM me with any questions/suggestions that you guys have.

Thanks,
Nate

If it was smaller.

 

[ndp]

Thanks for pointing that out WarWagon.

 

[joe_schindler]

Requirements for my engine class are below 260.999ci, no nitrous, alky, or meth, no turbo's/superchargers, and no EFI. Basically carbs and mechanical fuel injection only. Most people who are competitive in this engine class are running destroked Chevy V8's,

1. Are these kind of hp numbers achievable on a N/A 4.1? If so any advice on how to get there will be met with great appreciation (I know it will be expensive).

2. Will a production block with girdle and billet mains hold with this kind of hp for 2.5 to 3 miles of WOT?

3. If these hp numbers are achievable and if the block will hold, induction (manifold) is seems to be the biggest limiting factor. Are there any manifold options out there besides MFI, such as a Kinsler system, or custom sheet metal manifolds?

far south of $7,000 as possible. Feel free to post and or PM me with any questions/suggestions that you guys have.

Thanks,
Nate

Nate:

1: yes; but not for long. As Charlie says; Stage II is probalby the way to go.

2: see #1.

3: a custom manifold could be made by cutting up an EFI one. That would probably be the easiest.


A Buick 215 V8 or Olds 260 might be the easiest way to have 16 valves and be near your displacement limit and not be a Chevy. A destroked SBC or 2.2 would be the most economical way to last 3 miles. NASCAR castoffs might be the way to get started.

 

[charlief1]

Didn't think about the 215 Joe. Good point. You could use a Rover V8 and it's small enough to meet your requirements and the 215 intakes will bolt on. Not a bad idea really.