3" Dp
- Thread starter CJ's6
- Start date
UNDER-PRESSURE
..... Member .....
- Joined
- Jul 16, 2006
It will certainly help now & later if you ever go larger on the turbo.
dan lephart
Member
- Joined
- Nov 10, 2002
install
:biggrin: The hardest part is manuvering the old pipe out and the new pipe in. If your motor mounts are bad you may have clearance trouble. Make sure you have the correct pipe to turbo bolts before you start. I think the THDP bolts are longer. An assistant will be helpful. I put the passenger side on a stand to ease the process. Some bolts may give you fits removing... Yes the power gain is noticeable!
:biggrin: $75.00 is a steal. :biggrin:
:biggrin: The hardest part is manuvering the old pipe out and the new pipe in. If your motor mounts are bad you may have clearance trouble. Make sure you have the correct pipe to turbo bolts before you start. I think the THDP bolts are longer. An assistant will be helpful. I put the passenger side on a stand to ease the process. Some bolts may give you fits removing... Yes the power gain is noticeable!
:biggrin: $75.00 is a steal. :biggrin:
dan lephart
Member
- Joined
- Nov 10, 2002
Pita
Not really a pita. Be patient and remember you will have to roll the pipes to varrious angles to get them out and in. Remove the pipe from the top and reverse to install the fun pipe (through the engine bay). Mine was easier with the cat removed first. Install the dump after the pipe is in.
Enjoy the turbo spool sound when finished, sweet...
Not really a pita. Be patient and remember you will have to roll the pipes to varrious angles to get them out and in. Remove the pipe from the top and reverse to install the fun pipe (through the engine bay). Mine was easier with the cat removed first. Install the dump after the pipe is in. Enjoy the turbo spool sound when finished, sweet... 
- Joined
- May 26, 2001
Bolts that I recommend are Stainless Steel Hex head cap screws that are 8mm x 1.25 thread and 30mm long threads. (see pic) You will also need M8 washers to go with them 4 of each and a 6mm hex key.
McMaster Carr p/n 91292A149 in 18-8 SS work the best.
Ace Hardware will have them as well in their bolt section. You want too look for the Metric SS pull out drawer section that has all the hex head cap screws.
These are the type of bolts you're looking for.
The install is simple, just use the cork screw method and rotate the new pipe into the spot in a clock wise twisting motion. Remove the stock pipe by twisting it out counter clock wise, and install the new clock wise. You'll see, it's actually very easy to install once you get the spin just right. You might have to cut off the stock cat and or test pipe if it's froze to the downpipe as it's almost impossible to take off both without the car being jacked way high in the air.
Removal of the stock pipe is easy. Just unbolt the two spring loaded bolts that connect the stock downpipe to the cast iron 90* elbow. Once it's out of the car, spray the 4 bolts that attached the elbow to the side of the turbochargers turbine housing and let them soak for a few hours. While the PB blaster is setting in on those bolts, use a small flat blade screw driver, or a small pair of needle nose pliers and remove the E-clip that retains the wastegate actuator rod onto the wastegate swing valve arm.
Don't worry if it goes flying across the garage never to be found again, we have a better solution. Now, remove those 4 bolts and pull the elbow off the turbo, being careful not to break them. Clean the flange surface of the turbine housing with either sandpaper and cleaner, or a strong cleaner with lint free rags, making sure not to get any grit or trash into the and or on the turbine wheel. Using shop air to blow out all the crud/trash really helps here. Install new downpipe, use Copper High Temp Silicone to help seal the downpipe to the side of the turbine housing. Put antiseeze on all the bolts with washers, and screw them all in by hand while holding onto the downpipe and moving it around to help align the bolts, before putting a wrench to them. Once all 4 are installed, you will see that you will be able to move the downpipe around slightly. This is to help gain clearance on items such as the frame rail, the header, and the heater boxs' heat shield. Once you are happy with the clearance, tighten up all 4 bolts good and hand tight with the 6mm hex wrench. Hook up your wastegate actuator rod and either use an ID badge clip, an alligator clip, or one of the cruise control cable retaining clips to keep the actuator rod onto the downpipes swing valve arm. Don't try to reuse the Oh Jesus E clip that is on there stock. It will just lead to way too much frustration when it comes time to adjust the actuator rod and or remove it in the future. From here's it's just hook up your cat or test pipe and you're good.
A 3" terry houston style downpipe, even on a bone stock car, will yield 10-20 hp and you will definitely be able to feel the power, with decreased spool up time from a punch. There is a template over on Turbo Regal Web Site that you can print out and use to cut your heat shield. I have seen some people who just bend the shield to clear the pipe vs cutting it, but the shield would still be resting on the pipe. It's best to cut it too fit.
Hope some of this helps.
Patrick
McMaster Carr p/n 91292A149 in 18-8 SS work the best.
Ace Hardware will have them as well in their bolt section. You want too look for the Metric SS pull out drawer section that has all the hex head cap screws.
These are the type of bolts you're looking for.
The install is simple, just use the cork screw method and rotate the new pipe into the spot in a clock wise twisting motion. Remove the stock pipe by twisting it out counter clock wise, and install the new clock wise. You'll see, it's actually very easy to install once you get the spin just right. You might have to cut off the stock cat and or test pipe if it's froze to the downpipe as it's almost impossible to take off both without the car being jacked way high in the air.
Removal of the stock pipe is easy. Just unbolt the two spring loaded bolts that connect the stock downpipe to the cast iron 90* elbow. Once it's out of the car, spray the 4 bolts that attached the elbow to the side of the turbochargers turbine housing and let them soak for a few hours. While the PB blaster is setting in on those bolts, use a small flat blade screw driver, or a small pair of needle nose pliers and remove the E-clip that retains the wastegate actuator rod onto the wastegate swing valve arm.
Don't worry if it goes flying across the garage never to be found again, we have a better solution. Now, remove those 4 bolts and pull the elbow off the turbo, being careful not to break them. Clean the flange surface of the turbine housing with either sandpaper and cleaner, or a strong cleaner with lint free rags, making sure not to get any grit or trash into the and or on the turbine wheel. Using shop air to blow out all the crud/trash really helps here. Install new downpipe, use Copper High Temp Silicone to help seal the downpipe to the side of the turbine housing. Put antiseeze on all the bolts with washers, and screw them all in by hand while holding onto the downpipe and moving it around to help align the bolts, before putting a wrench to them. Once all 4 are installed, you will see that you will be able to move the downpipe around slightly. This is to help gain clearance on items such as the frame rail, the header, and the heater boxs' heat shield. Once you are happy with the clearance, tighten up all 4 bolts good and hand tight with the 6mm hex wrench. Hook up your wastegate actuator rod and either use an ID badge clip, an alligator clip, or one of the cruise control cable retaining clips to keep the actuator rod onto the downpipes swing valve arm. Don't try to reuse the Oh Jesus E clip that is on there stock. It will just lead to way too much frustration when it comes time to adjust the actuator rod and or remove it in the future. From here's it's just hook up your cat or test pipe and you're good.
A 3" terry houston style downpipe, even on a bone stock car, will yield 10-20 hp and you will definitely be able to feel the power, with decreased spool up time from a punch. There is a template over on Turbo Regal Web Site that you can print out and use to cut your heat shield. I have seen some people who just bend the shield to clear the pipe vs cutting it, but the shield would still be resting on the pipe. It's best to cut it too fit.
Hope some of this helps.
Patrick
Thank you for all the replies on this. Patrick, i was hoping you would reply because i have ordered parts from you B-4 (from PTE) i know you know these cars pretty well. thanks for the detailed install directions. I will post back when i do the install, hopefully i want run into any problems.
UNDER-PRESSURE
..... Member .....
- Joined
- Jul 16, 2006
A little trick i like to do with turbo work is remove the heat shield, bring the engine up to temerature, put on a good pair of work gloves & crack the 2 spring bolts & 4 housing bolts loose while turbo is Hot. Take a break, have a chilly one , & return to the job when thngs cool off a little. Easy prevention to breaking bolts in the exhaust housing.
, & return to the job when thngs cool off a little. Easy prevention to breaking bolts in the exhaust housing.ask me how i know easy it is to break the stock elbow bolts i'm just now putting things back together. i'd jump all over that DP. it's not a hard job at all. i had issues with my test pipe being froze to the stock DP, nothing a sawzall couldn't fix. after that it was smooth sailing.
i'm just now putting things back together. i'd jump all over that DP. it's not a hard job at all. i had issues with my test pipe being froze to the stock DP, nothing a sawzall couldn't fix. after that it was smooth sailing.Similar threads
