2.5 downpipe on the cheap

summit

Member
Joined
May 28, 2001
I recently have been working on a 83 turbo carbed car for a customer. The car is in good shape with a recent rebuild of the motor and the trans. Customer was looking for some upgrades as well as some general tuning to get a "little" more out of his car. I figured the best upgrade for his situation was a better downpipe. He already has a muffler shop dual exhaust and a stock cat that has been modified internally to be as free flowing as possible. here are a few pictures of the downpipe. Since a 84-85 is very similar I figured those guys could benefit as well. The lack of ready made alternatives forced us to build our own. Total downpipe was made from 3 u-bends bought through Jegs for $15 each. $45 in materials, but a whole day in fabrication time. You can almost make it with two u-bends, but the first bend from the turbo outlet is a little more than 90 degrees. I was able to make it in one piece and can install it just by removing the passenger exhaust manifold and installing them both together. I think you could really work at it and clear a 3 inch downpipe, but it may have to be two pieces to be able to install it without pulling the motor and I don't see the benefit on a hot air car to justify the extra work and expense.

downpipecomparemediummf4.jpg


Here you can see the inlets from a stock compared to the 2.5 downpipe. Much better

downpipeinmediumyv9.jpg


Same results on the outlet at the cat flange. I went ahead and made the exhaust flange out of some scrap metal I had versus trying to reuse the factory one.

downpipeoutmediumjb2.jpg


I went ahead and reused the upper flange instead of trying to make one. When I cut the factory downpipe I was suprised to find it double walled. I guess they used a 2.25 pipe inside of a 2.5 pipe and bent them both to help keep from crushing the tubes from the factory? So now we are talking a crush bent 2.25 downpiep being replaced by a mandrel bent 2.5 downpipe.

stkdownpipemediumic4.jpg


Here is the stub for the turbo outlet. I also ported the elbow out as well as opened up the wategate hole another 1/4 inch to 3/4 to match the puck better. This elbow isn't really that bad. More of a 45 degree outlet versus the 90 of a 84-87 turbo, but they have much better wategate setups.

turbooutletmediumig1.jpg


Greg Kring
Arlington, Tx
2002 BG super 16 winner
ex buick owner
 
Do you remember what part number for the u-bends were? or what was the radius of the bend you used?
 
4.25 radius u bends. The aluminized steel stuff is pretty cheap. I got by with just two u bends, but I would buy an assortment and take back what you do not need. Hooker and Walker both sell mandrel bends your local auto store can get for you or buy them through Summit or jegs.
 
you should start making them and selling them. I bet there would be more than a few guys interested!
 
I had a 2.5" pipe made up when I had the OLDS. I had a problem with Boost creep after this pipe was installed. I had to open up the waste gate puck hole to solve this.
 
whats boost creep im a turbo newbie

It's when your boost starts going up after you've reached what you thought it was suposed to be. That's why you need a boost gage. It happens with the factory waste gate when you start going for more boost. It's why I'll be using and external wastegate instead of the factory one, along with a boost controller.
 
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