15w-40

[MR2CHIPO]

Getting my car ready for the Las Vegas heat. Thinking of using 15w-40 and a Lucas additive. Anyone else using this type oil? Thoughts/ comments?

Thanks,
Cesar

 

[1986TR]

i have been using Delo 15w40 for many many years no problems....but iam not a buick "guru"

 

[MAXSIX]

I use rotella 15w40 and 20% of lucas additive and changing oil every 3 days of race for the last 3years and half and the car still running strong.

 

[hootowl]

I have used Mobil 1 15W-50 in my GN since buying it in 97 when I bought it. I've put 100K miles on it since then and had great results with this oil. I live in Florida and use it year round. According to the Mobil 1 website, the 15W-50 currently has 1200ppm phosphorus and 1300 ppm Zinc (table dated 5/27/10) which is the level the oils had in 87 and is quite enough for my recent flat tappet cam upgrade. Thus, no ZDDP, etc. additives are necessary.

Just my $.02 worth, Mel

 

[Nick Micale]

Getting my car ready for the Las Vegas heat. Thinking of using 15w-40 and a Lucas additive. Anyone else using this type oil? Thoughts/comments.......Thanks,....Cesar

You will get many comments on this subject, as it has been beat to death on this board, but still will give you my opinion.

We run 15W-40 or 20W-50 with a ZDDP additive in most local cars.

As far as synthetics, they are a waste of $$$ since there is no advantage of using them, as you should be changing oil at 1000-2000 mile with a boosted engine. The are other disadvantages over using regular oil as well. Actually some synthetics may be blended with more regular oil than synthetic? This you will not find this info on their web site. :frown:

The newer diesel oils have very large amounts of detergent additive to comply with the current low-sulfur EPA requirements. We do not need or want lots of detergent to wash our cylinder walls and bearings, as our oil is changed frequently anyway.

If you want more tech info, there are some excellent web sites with actual test data and additive composition in oils that have un-biased info and test results.

 

[LM1999]

What is the advantage of running the heavier wt oils? Most engine wear occurs on start-up especially with cars that sit for a while between drives. Factory specs are 10w30 -10w40 right? Just curious? On an other site (Real Olds Power) the has been a lot of praise with Schaffer(sp?) Oils series 7000 or 9000. One member there uses the 7000 series oil in a tow truck. At 280K miles he pulled the oil pan to check the bearings no wear. As you can imagine- tow truck have the worst driving conditions -- heavy loads, low speed driving, spot-go traffic etc. Also, an other member who owns a service shop ran oil bearing load tests with all the main brands (moble 1, Royal Purple, Rotella, Brad Penn, etc..) the Schaffer oil blew them all away. The test is basic in that the test fixture consists of a lever with a bearing and load contact surface. Oil is applied and the bearing surface is spun while a load is applied. At the extreme, he used al 4ft breaker bar as a lever and no failure. Then turn off the oil supply spun the bearing and finally had a bearing mark hanging off the 4ft bar. Excellent feedback. Finding the product may be any issue tho.

 

[Nick Micale]

What is the advantage of running the heavier wt oils? Most engine wear occurs on start-up especially with cars that sit for a while between drives. Factory specs are 10w30 -10w40 right? Just curious? .......

Just want to make you aware the this is a "turbo Buick" site where members come to share information on PERFORMANCE and how to best keep their ride reliable while tripling [and even more!] the power that the factory gave us!

Wear at start up is not a concern, as the increased RPM and HP is where our problems can and do show up, so factory recommendations are not really applicable here.

As far as the test fixture with a lever and bearing, it has been around even longer than I have for hucksters to sell their brand of snake oil. There are better modern methods to determine oil properties and quality.

Also, over the 25+ years since the turbo Buicks have been in the performance arena, we have found from real world experience what works well, and what does not.

I do not know any racers, Buicks or others, that trust light weight oils to protect their expensive race engines.

Like I stated earlier, there are MANY opinions on type and brand of oils to use, but in our narrow discussion of the overworked turbo V-6, we need to be sure we have the right stuff for the level of performance we are want.

Since the original poster listed his home as Las Vegas, the desert heat is much more extreme than most areas of the country, so my opinion is he is right on with his selection.

 

[LM1999]

Nick,
All is good. I have no turbo buick experience just general experience. If your experience is such that this is what works on these cars, this is great valuable knowledge that all members can use. This is the great thing about these forums. I assume the higher wt oils produce better film strength in higher boost / rpm situations. Good to know. If the is no harm in running the 15w oils and it gives you increased performance with more boost, it would be a sound choice. Do you recommend a larger oil filter or just a good quality std size (wix, purolator, etc)
Leo

 

[Nick Micale]

Nick,
........ I assume the higher wt oils produce better film strength in higher boost / rpm situations. Good to know. If the is no harm in running the 15w oils and it gives you increased performance with more boost, it would be a sound choice. Do you recommend a larger oil filter or just a good quality std size (wix, purolator, etc)
Leo

You assume correctly.

Just to clarify my position on oil, race cars should have race oil.

For street cars the most important factor is to change the oil, whatever kind or brand, OFTEN, before it is way contaminated.

When using leaded fuel, contamination happens very quickly, in my case only 20-25 passes.

I like Wix filters, bigger is better, and use them in my street cars, but I use a $170 cleanable, stainless filter in my race car protecting a $20K engine.

 

[scojack_2001]

Nick,

Should I switch from synthetic back to conventional? Since I bought my GN I've always ran Castrol Syntec, because the last owner did. I have also been told repeatedly that I cant switch back either.

Any advice appreciated.

 

[chops]

2o/50

I spoke to nick last night on the subject of oils he asked me what type am using and I said 10/30 synthetic he gave me the same speech today I put in 20/50 and my car saw a dramatic change in oil pressure at idle when the engine is warmed up I went from 20 psi at idle to 29 that's a big difference thanks nick

 

[vacuum 6]

Nick,

For our overworked v6s :biggrin:, what low detergent 20w50 do you like?

One last thing, with a stock front cover what's your feeling on a high dollar billet filter without an anti-drain back?

Thanks,
Walter

 

[SS/GN]

Very good point Nick.Only in North America is it allowed to call an oil synthetic as long as it meets the reguirements for synthetic oil.Many synthetic oils are blends and not truly synthetic in make up.Diesel oils have too much detergent and not enough anti-foaming agents.We have run 5w/20 oil in our superstocker but I would never run it in a street/race car.We typically re-ring the motor after 75 runs or so.Their is NO ill effects from useing heavier oils but piston scuffing is more likely with the thin oils. Ask some of the new Mustang guys how their 5w/20 oils are after warranty runs outWe should take some of these posts and make a sticky,this subject has been covered in many ways.:biggrin:

Kevin

 

[RIFF RAFF]

Street car

Brad penn 10w30 for me .. My big blocks get 10w40 every other change it gets a half bottle of lucas break in oil . I have never had an oil related break .just trannys & rear ends .and on a side note exxon mobil makes and blends castrol syntec its just a name and an additive package .. Pennzoil ,quaker state , shell all the same oil with differrent mineral identifiers .same crap in diferent color bottles .. I dont know whats best for all .just what works for me ..

 

[Nick Micale]

Nick,

For our overworked v6s :biggrin:, what low detergent 20w50 do you like?

One last thing, with a stock front cover what's your feeling on a high dollar billet filter without an anti-drain back?......Thanks,........Walter

For years we have used and promoted Valvoline Racing oil and used EOS, and now ZDDPlus, with excellent results which means hundreds of 9 sec. runs and bearings are still excellent. :biggrin:

As far as the billet filters, I personally have mine remote mounted upright, but know of other Buicks with them in the stock location with no issues.

 

[HelloBozos]

Running a oil cooler still? with no oil cooler any oil lasts 20 mintues run time before it breaks down,(seen it happen on gauge,the turbo kills the viscosity ) i run 15-50 moblie 1 with RJC oil coolier with large oil filter adaptor. soild 30 lbs at idel ! over 60 on cold start...(I'm in Florida,90 degree's an humid )

Enjoy!

 

[MAXSIX]

For years we have used and promoted Valvoline Racing oil and used EOS, and now ZDDPlus, with excellent results which means hundreds of 9 sec. runs and bearings are still excellent. :biggrin:

As far as the billet filters, I personally have mine remote mounted upright, but know of other Buicks with them in the stock location with no issues.

Nick you seem getting good knowledge what about valvoline VR1

 

[vacuum 6]

For years we have used and promoted Valvoline Racing oil and used EOS, and now ZDDPlus, with excellent results which means hundreds of 9 sec. runs and bearings are still excellent. :biggrin:

As far as the billet filters, I personally have mine remote mounted upright, but know of other Buicks with them in the stock location with no issues.

Thanks Nick. Just put some VR1 in the Buick.