1-2 shift way too high when trans is cool!?

B

Blevins

Member
Joined
Nov 26, 2012
I have a CK Performance full billet pro trans. Its about 20 degrees out here right now. When i get the car out and drive it around for about 10-15 mins to let engine etc get up to temp and hit on it, it will start out shifting 1-2 at about 6K RPM which is WAY too high for this car.. Now after i have done some 2-3 WOT runs itll finally come down to about 56-5700 1-2 shift this evening. Yesterday it was almost 40 degrees outside so about 20 degrees warmer then today and the first couple shifts where 6k and once trans was warmed up more i finally started getting 1-2 shifts in the 5400 range. Now the car is also trying to blow the ET Streets off the rims through 1st and 2nd gear as well..... Dunno how much this should effect shift points... 2-3 shift is always right around 53-5400 cold or hot.

My question is does trans temp really have this much effect on the 1-2 shift!? OR is there an issue?
 
This reminds me of racing in the cold weather and the best way to get trans temp up was to power brake the car at 5 pounds boost fo 10-15 seconds a few time and it helped out a lot with a little dr. These mods we do to these trans are all based on oil temp of 200 and we are much thicker under temp.A side bonus of this is the engine oil get some heat in it also most of the time we run our oil too cold.some of my best runs were right after the warmup sequence
 
I guess it doesn't help, for winter temps anyway, that my trans cooler doesn't run through my radiator. When i got home last night after running the car pretty hard i checked trans fluid level and the fluid wasn't hardly even warm..... I guess the large pan and the cooler is doing too good of a job in 20 degree outside temps and hwy driving. I'm not real familiar with the 200 4R trans so just wanted some reassurance that this was normal??? Anyone else ran into this issue?? And if it is the fluid is there another fluid i can run during the cooler months other then the mercon V its running now?
 
Well im editing my post as i found the issue. Its 100% related to trans fluid getting up to its operating temp. Just took a drive and stopped and brake boosted "set on the stall" a few times or so as suggested above to make sure i got trans temp up and sure enough shifting right at 5500 area like it should be. All i can think of is the deep pan and my cooler are doing too good of a job in cooler weather if i drive it easy... Guess it wants to be warmed up before its time to get down! Ya know i was wondering what gender my car was..... and its very clear its a women.... ;)
 
HaHah they sure require the dough to run smoothly like a lady needs too dont they? There has to be a debit card slit in them cars somewhere, let me know when you find it;) Glad you figured her out.
 
hello; That bypass is something just like a pc. that was sold by Lochhart to change the direction of the engine oil to the cooler on a motorcycle. Now what is made is a bypass built right into the cooler. There both good ideas.
IBBY
 
Yes, the Long/Tru-Cool LPD style coolers have the bypass built into them. The top 2-3 flues are larger & allow cold/thick fluid to bypass the Cooler & return to Trans lube. Long manufactures most of the stacked plate/fin OEM & Aftermarket coolers which are rebranded & sold under other names such as B&M etc....
Example Cutaway Pic >> http://www.bakerprecision.com/trucool.htm

Coolers >> http://www.transmissioncoolers.us/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=SFNT
Same Company as Makco & Bulkpart.
http://www.makcotransmissionparts.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?
http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?

Good Cooler Install Info >> http://www.transmissioncoolers.us/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/Install-Derale.pdf
 
Thinking i may just run it through the radiator first. The car stays 160-170 degrees unless i make a run at the track then set and it'll get to 180's to 190. With after cooler id say it would be fine and stay cool enough.
 
Good choice, it will get the Trans up to operating temp sooner. It will also cook off condensation that builds up inside the Trans. Moisture inside the Trans is bad, the adhesive used to bond the Friction material to the Clutches & Band is water based;)
 
It is something that happens with the 2004r.As long as the device has adequate bypass flow it should have positive results.
 
Well dunno how i managed to let this slip by me but my radiator doesn't have any places to put the trans lines in it. Looks like ill have to heat it up before i rip on it the manual way with a brake boost or buy one of these valves. Just worried the valve will let it get too hot. Anyone have any experience with these bypass valves?
 
I ordered the one you posted..... Are you thinking its no good because its cheaper then the ones you say you use or??? You confused me here....
 
Should be fine, I was just noting it's cheaper price wise.
If I had seen it 1st I would've bought it. ;)
 
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