.060 over block with rusted bores

spaulding

New Member
Hello All, I have a general question regarding my new to me 1984 T type. The block has been sitting open to the weather without the heads on and the hood protecting it but has some rust on the bores. The block has already been bored to .060 and the machine shop said the block could be honed but might not be worth it. However in the same breath they said it was not junk and might be worth it to try a hone. Am I wasting my time with this or should I look around for another block? Is a 4.1 worth looking for? My goal with this car is a street car with 400 or so tq/hp.
 

SCOOBY DOO

I'M NOT A MONSTER, I'M JUST AHEAD OF THE CURVE!!!
From a bore standpoint I'll tell you no. At .060 over you're gonna be damn close to the water jackets. Case in point. I raced a .030 over block and cracked into the water jackets in 3 different cylinders. The 3rd cylinder cracked right up to the deck and I scrapped it. Find another block.
 

Mr.Spool

Well-Known Member
Hello All, I have a general question regarding my new to me 1984 T type. The block has been sitting open to the weather without the heads on and the hood protecting it but has some rust on the bores. The block has already been bored to .060 and the machine shop said the block could be honed but might not be worth it. However in the same breath they said it was not junk and might be worth it to try a hone. Am I wasting my time with this or should I look around for another block? Is a 4.1 worth looking for? My goal with this car is a street car with 400 or so tq/hp.
Scrap it
 

TexasT

Texas, Where are you from
Surface rust and deep pitting are different. I'll agree at .060 over already that block is at the end of its life unless it cleans up with a hone. Could be sleeved but that adds up in a hurry.
Then we get to the end of the post and you want to make 400hp and that will probably require a different block.
If you can find a suitable 4.1 block you would be ahead but know it is old too so measure those bores and know what you are getting .
 

TIMINATOR

Active Member
Put a hone on it and see where it cleans. Do the worst cyl. first. Piston mfgrs. will make you any odd size pistons, so too, Total Seal will make u any size rings. My 1265 hp bbc blown boat motor (bowtie block, max recomended bore 4.5") had 4.614" pistons in it for the last 10 years of my owning it, the purchaser is still running it after buying it 6 yrs. ago.
Once u know what u have, offer it for sale here, I bet it will sell to someone that will block rock it and use it for a drag only motor.
I have done my share of using worn out blocks, filling them to about 1 and a half inches below the deck surface, and setting records in the process. The "fire" is out in the first inch of piston travel, so, not a big deal.
Filled, it would also make a great dyno mule for testing, or backup use.
We regularly bore BBChevies .125 and .140 over for street/strip use without filling them. I have done two at .220 over! Check strength of metals vs. length on google before u trash it!
I did a science project in Jr. High using round 1/4" solid glass rods. Took a 1 foot free length between 2 supports, added suspended weight from the center until it broke. Then took a 6" then 3" piece and did the same. The results will surprise you!
Smokey says .100 on the thrust side works for SBChevies, but that depends on unsupported cylinder length.
I have a sonic tester, so I can use what others discard. Done a LOT of it in the last 50 yrs of business.
Your $$$$$
Your call......
TIMINATOR
 

TIMINATOR

Active Member
Put a hone on it and see where it cleans. Do the worst cyl. first. Piston mfgrs. will make you any odd size pistons, so too, Total Seal will make u any size rings. My 1265 hp bbc blown boat motor (bowtie block, max recomended bore 4.5") had 4.614" pistons in it for the last 10 years of my owning it, the purchaser is still running it after buying it 6 yrs. ago.
Once u know what u have, offer it for sale here, I bet it will sell to someone that will block rock it and use it for a drag only motor.
I have done my share of using worn out blocks, filling them to about 1 and a half inches below the deck surface, and setting records in the process. The "fire" is out in the first inch of piston travel, so, not a big deal.
Filled, it would also make a great dyno mule for testing, or backup use.
We regularly bore BBChevies .125 and .140 over for street/strip use without filling them. I have done two at .220 over! Check strength of metals vs. length on google before u trash it!
I did a science project in Jr. High using round 1/4" solid glass rods. Took a 1 foot free length between 2 supports, added suspended weight from the center until it broke. Then took a 6" then 3" piece and did the same. The results will surprise you!
Smokey says .100 on the thrust side works for SBChevies, but that depends on unsupported cylinder length.
I have a sonic tester, so I can use what others discard. Done a LOT of it in the last 50 yrs of business.
Your $$$$$
Your call......
TIMINATOR
 

TurboTGuy

Gray Beard Member
Hey Tim.

How ya' doin'? :)

Got my car to a point I'd like to bring it to you for some tuning, if you have time.
 

TIMINATOR

Active Member
Hey Guy, Wazzup? I'm pretty booked for the next two weeks, but give me a call and we will set something up! Havent seen ya at the car shows, been up there a few times on the sleeper HD. FINALLY have everything except the custom roller for my car. Gonna finish the engine soon after work in the evenings. Then we will see how bad u can kick my ass! I can't wait!
All your stuff is bigger than mine, but I'm curious how bad mine will run against yours! I AM a better driver, thats all I have in the bank! LOL! The HD only runs high 10s, so you will smoke that too!😮‍💨
TIMINATOR
 

spaulding

New Member
I'm in NH, will use the block for mock up so will hang on to it, thanks again guys. Should I look for any post 79 block or does it have to be an 84-87 turbo block? From what I can tell, the 4.1 looks like a great option, just swap the intake and exhaust manifolds and go.
 

spaulding

New Member
Hi All,
Here is the latest regarding my project, a 1980 or 81 complete engine. I ran it on the engine stand for about 30 seconds and am going to use the long block as is and roll the dice. Should be interesting but it fits my budget, low!
 

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turbodave231

Moderator
In my opinion, the real issue is the cylinder wall thickness. If you want a definitive answer to your question, have the block/bores sonically tested before investing any machine time in honing. If the bores are thicker than .125 then the block is OK to try and save. I'd hate to invest all the time and money into machine work and parts to end up with a block cracked in the cylinder bores.
 

spaulding

New Member
Thanks guys and Merry Christmas, I am not going to do any machining on the original or new (to me) block and will assemble the 84 fuel injection on the 80 long block. I will try to make updates as the project progresses. The new goal is to get the engine in the car, get it running close to stock, then get the other systems on the car roadworthy.
 

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